Micronization as a tool in the development of innovative UV filters / S. Muller in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 131, N° 7 (07/2005)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 131, N° 7 (07/2005) . - p. 32-38 Titre : Micronization as a tool in the development of innovative UV filters Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. Muller, Auteur ; B. Herzog, Auteur ; Jochen Giesinger, Auteur ; K. Quass, Auteur ; Uli Osterwalder, Auteur Année de publication : 2005 Article en page(s) : p. 32-38 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Absorption Diffusion (physique) Fragmentation Particules fines Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Spectroscopie ultraviolette Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The increasing demand for reliable broad-pectrum UVB and UVA protection has led to the development of various new sunscreen actives. The traditional classification divides sunscreen actives into organic (soluble) filters, such as a) EHMC, b) OCR, c) BMDBM, d) BEMT, etc, which only absorb UV radiation, and inorganic (insoluble) UV filters, such as TiO2 and ZnO which scatter, reflect and absorb the UV radiation. Now, a new class of organic (insoluble) UV absorbers is emerging: Microfine organic particles dispersed in water. Two candidates of this new class of UV absorbers will be discussed: e) MBBT, which is a broadband UVA1 absorber and a new triazine based compound, which is a research sample having UVB/UVA2 absorption. Both particule UV absorbers show pigment properties, which are close to TiO2 or ZnO, but also the typical high UV absorbance of organic UV filters. Note de contenu : - Mechanism of absorption in microfine particles - Mechanism of scattering in microfine particles Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28129 [article]

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New systems of broad-spectrum UV protection / Uli Osterwalder in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 5, N° 3 (07-08-09/2002)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 5, N° 3 (07-08-09/2002) . - p. 169-175 Titre : New systems of broad-spectrum UV protection Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Uli Osterwalder, Auteur ; Bernd Herzog, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 169-175 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Tags : 'UVA  absorber'  'Broadband  UV  protection'  'Broad-spectrum  Efficacy  Safety  'Australian  UVA  standard'  'Japanese  PPD Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Sunscreens should protect UVB induced sunburns as well as deeper penetrating UVA radiation, which enhance the risk of skin cancer and premature skin aging. UVA protection is realized either by the conventional UVA filter Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMBM), which has to be stabilized against light-induced decay, by microfine Zinc Oxide (ZnO) or by new photostable chemical entities. The European Commission (EC) recently approved two UVA absorbers (Terephthalidene dicamphor sulfonic acid (TDSA) and Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (DPDT), and three broad-spectrum UV absorbers (Drometrizole Trisiloxane (DTS), Methylene-bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT) and Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (BEMT). The efficacy of these new UVA/broad-spectrum absorbers is discussed in conjunction with the various UVA assessment methods: The superiority of the new photostable UV absorbers is best documented by in-vivo Persistent Pigment Darkening (PPD) method. The in-vitro UVA/UVB ratio proves to be a more sensitive measure to characterize broadband behavior than the critical wavelength method. Broad-spectrum filters often show a synergistic effect regarding the SPF in combination with UVB filters. The new UV absorbers give the formulator more flexibility to achieve better formulations. The comparison of three products of similar SPF - all with broadband claim - shows that the degree of UVA protection may very greatly. With the modern, photostable broad-spectrum UV absorbers lower amounts of filter may yield the same protection. The chemical development of modern UV filters has lead to substances with higher molecular weight, which is one parameter besides others that determines the skin penetration of a substance. The rigid criteria of the EC approval process guarantee that these new UV filters can be used safely in the protection against the harmful effects of UV radiation. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10640 [article]

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SPF assessment revisited - status and outlook / Uli Osterwalder in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 4 (04/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 4 (04/2018) . - p. 38-44 Titre : SPF assessment revisited - status and outlook Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Uli Osterwalder, Auteur ; Rolf Schütz, Auteur ; Jürgen Vollhardt, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 38-44 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Evaluation Facteur de protection solaire Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : We present the latest alternatives to the in vivo SPF gold standard and discuss their potential and procedures for their validation. The relevance of erythema as SPF endpoint is undisputed, especially as erythema and at least non-melanoma-skin-cancer share a similar action spectrum. Skin and sunscreens interact in a complex fashion, producing an absorption phenomenon far removed from the laboratory cuvette. This continues to represent a significant trueness challenge for any replacement method. We have choices for an alternative method, from in silico and in vitro which require no human testing to a hybrid that involves humans but with negligible irradiation burden. Performing method validation is a key step in the process and requires a solid data foundation to select a suitable method that assures future success. Note de contenu : - The relevance of SPF for skin cancer prevention - SPF test ISO 24444 - the gold standard, in vivo - Alternative SPF methods - Single exposure SPF test, in vivo - Hybrid diffuse reflectance spectroscopy method (H-DRS) in vivo/in vitro - Transmission SPF, in vitro - Calculated SPF, in silico - Oveview of potential of SPF assessment methods - validation procedure for alternative SPF methods - The way forward - FIGURES : 1. "It is better to be roughly right than precisely wrong." - John Maynard Keynes. One should not be misled by high precision The scatter of the "roughly right" case can always be reduced by more data that will make it possible to narrow the distance from the true value - at some extra cost, of course - 2. Very high correlation found between erythema and skin cancer action spectra - 3. SPF gold standard and alternatives. Classification of assessment method according totype - 4. Distribution of individual sun protection factors (SPFi) for SPF-true = 36, standard deviation = 4.4. Blue line : SPF label = 30. Area left of blue line : proportion of erythema in the population (8.6 %) - 5. Experimental setup of H-DRS measurement (in vivo DRS and in vitro ISO 24443) - 6. Principle of in silico method based on UV filter concentration - 7. Overview of methods and their role in supporting/replacing the current ISO 24444 - Table : Status of gold standard ISO 24444 and potential alternatives En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Zv7FuuwQxo3baBljIlrMNpi3zkzQlLVo/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30424 [article]

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The sunscreen simulator : A formulator's tool to predict SPF and UVA parameters / Bernd Herzog in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 129, N° 7 (07/2003)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 129, N° 7 (07/2003) . - p. 25-36 Titre : The sunscreen simulator : A formulator's tool to predict SPF and UVA parameters Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Bernd Herzog, Auteur ; Christine Mendrok, Auteur ; Sébastien Mongiat, Auteur ; Stefan Müller, Auteur ; Uli Osterwalder, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 25-36 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Facteur de protection solaire Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Rayonnement ultraviolet A Simulation, Méthode de Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The Sunscreen Simulator is a piece of software enabling the calculation of SPF (sun protection factor), UVA/UVB-ratio, critical wavelength and the forecast whether the criterion of the Australian standard is given. It is based on a step film model, by which inhomogeneities of the absorbing layer are introduced. The two parameters describing the structure of the step film were adjusted by comparing the in vivo SPF data of three sunscreen standards with the results of corresponding calculations. Using the calibrated model, for a large number of suncreen formulations a satisfactory correlation of calculated and in vivo SPF data has been observed. The correlation of calculated and in vivo on rough quartz plates in excellent, and the forecast whether the Australian standard criterion is given or not appears to be reliable as well. The model reproduces synergistic effects on SPF induced by the presence of mixtures of UVA- and UVB-absorbing filters. It can also be used to design sunscreen formulations with a specific UVA performance. Note de contenu : - The step film model - Calibration of the model parameters - Materials and methods - Correlation of calculated SPF and SPF in vivo - Correlation of calculated UVA parameters and UVA parameters measured in vitro - Application examples - The sunscreen similator on the internet Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28141 [article]

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