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Lessons from nature for development of amino acids and related functional materials cosmetic applications / Kazutami Sakamoto in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 16, N° 2 (04-05-06/2013)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 16, N° 2 (04-05-06/2013) . - p. 79-85 Titre : Lessons from nature for development of amino acids and related functional materials cosmetic applications Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Kazutami Sakamoto, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 79-85 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acide pyrrolidone carboxylique Acides aminés Les acides aminés (ou aminoacides) sont une classe de composés chimiques possédant deux groupes fonctionnels : à la fois un groupe carboxyle –COOH et un groupe amine –NH2. Parmi ceux-ci, les acides α-aminés se définissent par le fait que leur groupe amine est lié à l'atome de carbone adjacent au groupe acide carboxylique (le carbone α), ce qui leur confère la structure générique H2N–CHR–COOH, où R représente la chaîne latérale, qui identifie l'acide α-aminé. Les acides α-aminés jouent un rôle fondamental en biochimie comme constituants élémentaires des protéines : ils polymérisent en formant des liaisons peptidiques qui aboutissent à de longues chaînes macromoléculaires appelées peptides. Cosmétiques Filaggrine Matériaux -- Propriétés fonctionnelles Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Unlike the development of life and a harmonized ecology system on earth by Mother Nature through more than four billion years of evolution, the de-velopment of science and technology by humans has taken less than 400 years, and the pace of scientific and technological progress in the past 50 years has been amazing. This rather sudden development has caused global ecology and sustainability problems for human society. It is time to sit back and learn more from nature. Therefore amino acids and related functional materials are reviewed in this article from the point of view of learning from nature. Basic features of amino acids and their existence and roles in the skin are discussed in relation to skin metabolism. Special attention is paid to pyrrolidone carboxylic acid as an end metabolite of filaggrin via glutamic acid. Development of amino acid derivatives for extensive applications and future prospects are also discussed. Note de contenu : - Amino acids : basic features - Existence and roles of amino acids in skin - Amino acid derivatives for extensive applications - Future prospects Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=18783 [article]

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Discovery of adrenomedullin as a novel melanocyte activating factor / Tomonori Motokawa in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 16, N° 2 (04-05-06/2013)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 16, N° 2 (04-05-06/2013) . - p. 87-91 Titre : Discovery of adrenomedullin as a novel melanocyte activating factor Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Tomonori Motokawa, Auteur ; Minako Toritsuka, Auteur ; Takahirio Miwa, Auteur ; Mayu Mochizuki, Auteur ; Masaaki Itou, Auteur ; Kanae Tahiro, Auteur ; Kouji Yokoyama, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 87-91 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dendrite Dermatologie Mélanine Mélanocytes Pigmentation, Troubles de la Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Both pigmented and white spots on human skin are caused by abnormalities in melanin accumulation, resulting in uneven coloring and thus affecting skin esthetics. Thus, understanding and controlling melanin accumulation is very important in the field of cosmetics. Here we performed an exhaustive analysis to identify important factors affecting melanin accumulation and identified adrenomedullin as a novel factor affecting melanin accumulation. We found that adrenomedullin dramatically increases the number of melanocyte dendrites, which are the routes of melanin transport to keratinocytes, and also induces melanin pro-duction. Moreover, we detected large amounts of adrenomedullin in partly pigmented human epidermis. Adrenomedullin is thus considered a key regulator of melanin accumulation. Note de contenu : - Discovery of a novel melanocyte activating factor - Effects of adrenomedullin and other factors on the number of dendrites - Effects of adrenomedullin on melanin synthesis - Confirmation of adrenomedullin in human pigmented lesions and ultraviolet (UV)-irradiated lesions Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=18784 [article]

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Skin of african descent : biophysical and clinical characterization influence of age / Stéphane Diridollou in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 16, N° 2 (04-05-06/2013)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 16, N° 2 (04-05-06/2013) . - p. 93-99 Titre : Skin of african descent : biophysical and clinical characterization influence of age Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stéphane Diridollou, Auteur ; Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; Jean de Rigal, Auteur ; Bernard Querleux, Auteur ; Bertrand Piot, Auteur ; Felicia Dixon-Parks, Auteur ; Roland Bazin, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 93-99 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermatologie Etude in vivo Etudes cliniques Etudes comparatives Peau Peau -- analyse Peau noire Vieillissement cutané Tags : Peau  'Afro-américain'  Caucasien  'Propriétés  biophysiques'  'Caractérisation  clinique'  Ethnicité  Atlas  Age Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The Clinical and biophysical data on African skin, its specific features and effects of aging are rather sparse. Accordingly, we aimed to characterize skin of African descent (African American skin) versus Caucasian skin through biophysical and clinical investigations. Additionally, clinical changes in some skin features as a function of age are reported. In a first study, in vivo biophysical experiments were performed on the skin of 130 African American and 80 Caucasian women aged 18 to 87 living in the U.S. They included determination of the skin microrelief, color and color evenness, sebaceous function, surface hydration, mechanical properties, and skin structures (epidermis, subepidermal non-echogenic band, dermal epidermal junction, papillary-dermis and dermis). A second study involved a larger cohort of 200 African American and Caucasian women, aged 18-87, who were split into twelve matched 5-year age groups, in order to record age-related changes. Standardized photographs of the face were taken, focusing on various skin features. These included eye bags, under eye wrinkles, crow's feet. These studies revealed that most of these skin features are common to both the Caucasian and African American populations. Nevertheless, some features were more prominent in or specific to the African American population including • thicker epidermis and dermal-epidermal junction, • thicker papillary dermis, • stronger mechanical properties, • specific clinical signs such as less depth of vertical upper lip wrinkles and • more hyperpigmetation as well as pig mentary growths. Moreover, clinical results showed that expression lines and tissue sagging appear at a later age in this population. In addition, African American and Caucasian atlases were developed that can be used as an objective tool to evaluate product effectiveness, compare as well as identify the best products, and support efficacy claims. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Study 1 - Biophysical measurements - Color heterogeneity - Sebaceous function - Thickness of the dermal-epidermal junction and epidermis - Study 2 - Clinical - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Biophysical measurements - Clinical evaluation Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=18785 [article]

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Visualizing cosmetic application procedures : a novel tool for universal sharing of professional skills / Minori Kakizawa in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 16, N° 2 (04-05-06/2013)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 16, N° 2 (04-05-06/2013) . - p. 101-105 Titre : Visualizing cosmetic application procedures : a novel tool for universal sharing of professional skills Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Minori Kakizawa, Auteur ; Masashi Nakatani, Auteur ; Tomoyuki Kawasoe, Auteur ; Kozo Shiojima, Auteur ; Satoshi Kinoshita, Auteur ; Kazumi Koketsu, Auteur ; Jun Wada, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 101-105 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Cosmétiques  'Procédure  application  cosmétique'  'Force  contact'  Capteur  Ergonomie  'Conception  universelle' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The application technique used for a cosmetic procedure is, besides the cosmetic products themselves, an important factor in effectively maintaining healthy facial and body skin. However, evaluation of cosmetic application procedures remains technically challenging owing to the subtle motions involved, which cannot be precisely detected by shooting a video. To overcome this difficulty, we developed a wearable sensor system to estimate the finger contact force as well as measure the subtle motion of the fingertip without a covering finger pad. We evaluated the differences in the cosmetic application procedure between general users and professional beauty consultants using the sensor. The results suggested that the intensity of the force applied by general users to the skin covers a much broader range than that of the professionals and that the finger activity of professionals was more rhythmic and of smaller amplitude than that of general users. The cosmetic application procedures of general users alter instruction in the cosmetic application procedure by professional beauty consultants were also evaluated. The results suggested that the amplitude of finger activity can be readily taught, although the contact force was relatively difficult to teach without showing one's own contact force quantitatively. These data show that the sensor system can be used to effectively evaluate the difference between individual cosmetic application procedures. In addition, we used the wearable sensor to teach the face massage technique. The results indicate that the cosmetic application procedure can be sufficiently imparted using the sensor. This sensor system is useful not only for measuring cosmetic application procedures quantitatively, but also for teaching cosmetic treatments such as skin care massage and makeup skills. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=18786 [article]

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