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First impression versus extended usage : a comparison of product testing methodologies for perfume / I. Shalofsky in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 15, N° 2 (04/1993)
[article]
Titre : First impression versus extended usage : a comparison of product testing methodologies for perfume Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : I. Shalofsky, Auteur Année de publication : 1993 Article en page(s) : p. 63-75 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Perfume 'Consumer product testing' 'Sniff test' 'In-use Methodology Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Dans l'industrie de la parfumerie fine, contrairement aux autres industries de produits de grande consommation, les tests consommateurs systématiques sont rarement utilisés. Les raisons sont diverses ; les traditions propres du parfum tournées vers la mode plutôt que vers le marketing, le refus des parfumeurs de voir leurs créations subir des tests, les délais étonnamment courts pour le développement d'un nouveau produit et, bien sûr, le coût. Lorsqu'un test consommateurs est effectué, il se résume généralement pour ces mêmes raisons, en un test "sniff", ce qui, dans l'industrie du parfum équivaut à un test de "première impression".
Cet article montre que ces tests "sniff" sont encore moins fiables pour le parfum que l'on avait pensé jusqu'à maintenant. Il est fait référence à deux tests consommateurs sur le parfum, un projet qualitatif en France, suivi par un exercice quantitatif effectué en Grande Bretagne. La comparaison entre les tests réalisés à domicile d'une part, et en salle d'autre part, montre que, pour les mêmes parfums, les résultats obtenus peuvent être erronés. Une des conclusions principales est que le parfum est un produit qui devrait être testé sur une longue période et non pas sur une première impression.DOI : 10.1111/j.1467-2494.1993.tb00070.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1467-2494.1993.tb00070.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=5120
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 15, N° 2 (04/1993) . - p. 63-75[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 003947 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Testing the Discriminative Capacity of Compartmental Modeling for the Analysis of the In-Vivo Epidermal Water Content Changes Following Topical Application under Occlusion / Pedro Contreiras Pinto in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 5, N° 2 (04-05-06/2002)
[article]
Titre : Testing the Discriminative Capacity of Compartmental Modeling for the Analysis of the In-Vivo Epidermal Water Content Changes Following Topical Application under Occlusion Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Pedro Contreiras Pinto, Auteur ; Luis Marcelo Pereira, Auteur ; Rui Minhos, Auteur ; Luis Monteiro Rodrigues, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 87-92 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Skin hydration' 'efficacy testing' 'mthematical modeling' POST 'in-vivo measurement' evaporation 'dynamic water loss' TEWL Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Mathematical modeling of cutaneous variables is an attratictive strategy to meet the compex nature of in-vivo skin, especially in the presence of an external stimulus such as a topical product. Despite the oversimplification implied, meeting the conceptualization of the model with the representative (physiological) variables is still a major difficulty, often impairing the model validity.
Once achieved, however, its applicability will mostly depend on the demonstration of the accuracy and practicability of the model. In previous works, the authors developed a bi-compartmental model designed to dynamically describe the Trans-epidermal water loss(TEWL) curves obtained in-vivo from the Plastic Occlusion Stress Test (POST) methodology. Occlusion was performed in healthy human volunteers (n=10) occluded with either 10% glycerin in water solution or water alone. Desorption curves allowed to obtain kinetic parameters such as k(evap)(the water evaporation rate at skin surface), t1/2 evap(the evaporation half-life), and DWM (the dynamic water mass) allowing a detailed quantitative description of the hydration process. Results demonstrate that the proposed model is adequate to identify significant differences (p<0.05) between the curve profiles, revealing the different hydration mechanisms involved, and suggesting an interesting application potential for the substantiation and efficacy testing of cosmectics.Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10649
in IFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 5, N° 2 (04-05-06/2002) . - p. 87-92[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 003874 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Importance of substrate roughness for in-vitro sun protection assessment / Louis Ferrero in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 9, N° 2 (04-05-06/2006)
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Titre : Importance of substrate roughness for in-vitro sun protection assessment Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Louis Ferrero, Auteur ; Marc Pissavini, Auteur ; Adeline Dehais, Auteur ; Stephanie Marguerie, Auteur ; Leonhard Zastrow, Auteur Année de publication : 2006 Article en page(s) : p. 97-108 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Sunscreen testing' 'In vitro SPF' 'UVA protection' 'Surface roughness' microtopography' 'Irregularfilm geometry' 'UV filters' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The purpose of this study is to demonstrate the influence of plate roughness on well-known absolute or relative UV
spectroscopic indices such as the in vitro SPF, in vitro UVA PF (PPD), UVA/UVB ratio, critical wavelength and SPF/UVA
PF (PPD) ratio. First a roughness index was measured by non-contact surface topography analysis on different
PMMA plates which are available today on the European market. A large difference between maximum and minimum
plate roughness values could be measured ranging from 1.88 μm to 6.76 μm. Then the PMMA plates were grouped
into five different roughness classes. To measure the different spectroscopic indices, the same sunscreen preparation
was applied at the same amount rate (1 mg cm-2) to each of the selected plates. Large differences were noted for
the absolute in vitro indices SPF and UVA PF (PPD), with the SPF varying in one instance from 13.5 to 40.7. On the other
hand, the relative absorbance indices UVA/UVB ratio and critical wavelength showed a small but significant variation
in relation to roughness. The SPF/UVA PF (PPD) ratio index based on direct in vitro values was found to be very
sensitive to roughness variation. However, adjusting the UV absorbance curve to reach equality between the in vitro
SPF and in vivo SPF is a recognized and efficient mathematical process to limit the variation.
All these results can be interpreted using the irregular sunscreen film theory. Mathematical developments can be
achieved by modeling the height distribution with a gamma function.Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10847
in IFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 9, N° 2 (04-05-06/2006) . - p. 97-108[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 008185 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible New Technique to Capture Viscoelastic Changes in Hair Induced by Mechanical Stress / S. B. Hornby in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 5, N° 2 (04-05-06/2002)
[article]
Titre : New Technique to Capture Viscoelastic Changes in Hair Induced by Mechanical Stress Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. B. Hornby, Auteur ; Nigel J. P Winsey, Auteur ; Stephen P. Bucknell, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 93-97 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Cyclic testing' Fatigue 'Elastic modulus' Resiliency 'Tensile stress' 'Hair breakage' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In a previous article [1], we have described the mechanical fatigue behaviour of hair fibers subjected to intermitted tensile deformations using the Cyclic Tester (Dia-Stron, Ltd., Andover, UK) in order to mimic stresses encountered during grooming procedures. The instrument imparts repeated tensile load cycles to the hair and records the numbers of cycles at the break point of each hair fiber. The distributions of the number of cycles required to cause hair fiber breakage were analyzed using the Weibull distribution and the beneficial effect of certain conditioners was discussed.
The Cyclic Tester is also capable of recording load-elongation data for the hair fiber during the load cycles. In this study, we captured the load elongation data at selected load cycles of very damaged tip ends of single hair fibers and compared this data to that obtained for the undamaged root end of the same fiber using the Cyclic Tester. The changes in the hair fiber elastic and viscoelastic characteristics of very damaged and unaltered hair as a function of a number of prior deformations were compared. The instrument was enable to give a portrait of the viscoelastic changes in hair during repetitive stress.Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10651
in IFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 5, N° 2 (04-05-06/2002) . - p. 93-97[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 003874 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible