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A new multifunctional ingredient for formulators : bringing innovation in cosmetics through the instigation of nature / Philippe Maréchal in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 3 (03/2019)
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Titre : A new multifunctional ingredient for formulators : bringing innovation in cosmetics through the instigation of nature Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Philippe Maréchal, Auteur ; Nathalie Loubat-Bouleuc, Auteur ; M. Villedieu, Auteur ; Fabien Merlaud, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 36-44 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents dispersants (chimie)
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cosmétiques
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Ester d'estolide
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Hydratation
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Lèvres -- Soins et hygiène
Matériaux filmogènes
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Polymères -- Biodégradation
Polymères -- Synthèse
Produits hydratants
shampooings
TexturantsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The use of cosmetics is connected to soul and body; with an increasing desire for sustainability. As an answer, several types of estolides were synthetized by ingredient manufacturers, starting from vegetable fatty acids. Two main ways of synthesis of these intermolecular esters can be considered, depending on the raw materials.
We developed a new estolide ester, based on castor oil, engineered with as few transformations as possible, showing a great versatility in applications for cosmetic formulators, and a high degree of Naturality. The performances of this innovative polymer ingredient, dedicated to haircare, skincare, and lipcare, were screened through a sensorial panel and instruments.
Our estolide ester brings a broad range of properties as texturizing or film-forming agent, and moisturizer. It also shows interesting values as a pigment disperser. During application on hairs, skin, or lips, this ester of estolide will give high protective properties from air pollution.
The ingredient we tuned showed to be fully biodegradable, and its NOI (Natural Origin Index) is 87%.
Our commitment to Naturality determined our scientific approach, and our technology allowed us to manufacture this ester of estolide with unique performances and a reduced environmental footprint.Note de contenu : - General ideas about estolides
- Estolide esters for innovation
- Versatility in applications
- Fig. 1 : General scheme for esterification following the Fisher's mechanism
- Fig. 2 : General chemical patern for an estolide : m1+m2 ⩾ 2 , n ⩾ 0, and R, a carbon chain of any type, short or long, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, functionalized or not...
- Fig. 3 : Estolide formation from oleic acids
- Fig. 4 : estolide formation from 12-hydroxystearic acid
- Fig. 5 : Reaction of capping of a estolide chain, by a stearic acid
- Fig. 6 : Formation of an estolide ester through the reaction of an ethylhexyl alcohol
- Fig. 7 : DUB ESTOLINE chemical structure
- Fig. 8 : Sensory profile of DUB ESTOLINE in comparison with phytosqualane test on framework formulaat 15%, internal panel of 10, with a defined protocol application on forearm
- Fig. 9 : Measurement of the Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) on the forearm of 10 volunteers with a cream containing 5% test substance
- Fig. 10 : Measurement of hydration on the stratum corneum with a corneometer after treatment with a cream containing 5% test substance
- Fig. 11 : Quantization of carbonyl residues in skin explants treated with a cream containing 5% ethylhexyl polyhydroxystearate
- Fig. 12 : Binding ability of DUB ESTOLINE, another binder containing castor oil derivatives and another ester
- Table 1 : Spectrum of application properties in cosmetics of estolides and estolide esters, reviewed in literature
- Table 2 : Composition of the framework formula used in sensory tests. Test substance : vegetable oil, phytosqualane, estolide ester
- Table 3 : Composition of the O/W model emulsion used in efficiency tests in skin care. Test substance : vegetable oil, hydrocarbon, estolide ester
- Table 4 : Composition of the shampoo used for thehair care tests. Test substance : estolide ester, dimethicone
- Table 5 : Evolution of the weights of tresses after treatments with model shampoos
- Table 6 : Composition of the foundation formulation used for compaction testsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gzskXdzZwMMhVHalGbt2oHe9YUX1O8Ig/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32033
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 3 (03/2019) . - p. 36-44[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 20809 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible 20688 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible 20697 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible A new sustainable natural texturiser / Rebecca Blell in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 1 (02/2017)
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Titre : A new sustainable natural texturiser Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Rebecca Blell, Auteur ; Reinert Fure, Auteur ; Rainer Kroepke, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 65-68 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cellulose La cellulose est un glucide constitué d'une chaîne linéaire de molécules de D-Glucose (entre 200 et 14 000) et principal constituant des végétaux et en particulier de la paroi de leurs cellules.
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cosmétiques -- Additifs
Cosmétiques -- Application-dosage
Epaississants
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits naturels
Pulvérisation
Texturants
ViscositéIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Exilva, the new natural raw material sustainably produced from Cellulose, is ideally suited to improving the stability, the rheological behaviour and the sensoric properties of cosmetic products. The various strengths of the cellulose-based material are displayed in different ways :
In the area of skin care, a strong matting effect can be achieved in products such as face creams, BB creams and decorative cosmetics by using Exilva. Hair care formulas which contain Exilva as a raw material stand out thanks to a significant reduction in the combing forces. Furthermore, in the field of sun care products, the extreme shear thinning and rapid viscosity recovery of Exilva makes it possible to develope formulations suitable for spraying. Exilva can therefore sustainably enhance the raw material portfolio in different categories.Note de contenu : - Production
- Application
- Rheology
- Skin care
- Hair care
- Sun care
- TABLE : Viscosity values of Exilva and some other thickeners
- FORMULATIONS : 1. Soft focus face cream- 2. Conditioner test formula
- FIGURES : 1. The production process of Exilva and all other Borrefaard product - 2. Results of soft focus test ; proDerm 08/2015 - 3. Before and after product application - 4. Measurement of combing force on blonde hair - 5. Measurement of combing force on grey hair - 6. Spray experimentsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gSzQUdx0FR_7jv5VovDr-AAEF5gwKayA/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=27906
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 1 (02/2017) . - p. 65-68[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 18677 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible 18676 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Silicone elastomer blend with high natural content / Anne-Marie Vincent in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021)
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Titre : Silicone elastomer blend with high natural content Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anne-Marie Vincent, Auteur ; Jean-Luc Garaud, Auteur ; Giada Tonet, Auteur ; Fabienne Bizeray, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 83-85 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Elastomères de silicones
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Silicones -- Emploi en cosmétologie
TexturantsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Dow’s silicone elastomer blend ingredient helps to formulate products with superior feel and high levels of natural content.
Historically, Silicone Elastomer Blends (SEB) have consisted of a crosslinked silicone network swelled in a silicone carrier fluid that is valued by personal care formulators for the sensory, texture, thickening and optical benefits they provide. However, due to their 100% silicone nature, SEB may be difficult to incorporate into formulations with high levels of organic oils. While equivalent blends featuring organic carrier fluids are able to provide enhanced compatibility, this comes at the cost of affecting their sensory profile.
The new DOWSILâ„¢ EL-TIPS Silicone Elastomer Blend technology utilises a novel crosslinking approach that maximises the level of silicone elastomer when combined with an organic carrier fluid. This new SEB features more than 70% of inherently biodegradable C13-15 Alkane, obtained from a renewable source, sugarcane, which is prepared by bio fermentation and not subject to the standards of the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO). The use of the new optimised crosslinking technology opens up new possibilities in terms of skin sensory profile, texturising performance, compatibility and product appearance. This makes this technology particularly suited to consumer formulations with high natural content.Note de contenu : - Creating naturally derived formulations for today's consumers
- Silicone sensory feel
- Superior thickening allows lower use level
- Product appearance
- Optical properties
- Formulation 1 : Touch gel-to-cream dry oil with 93% natural and derived natural ingredients
- Formulation 2 : Touch melting dry oil with 94% natural and derived natural ingredients
- Formulation 3 : Infusion perfumed gel with 82% natural and derived natural ingredients
- Formulation 4 : Planet water-in-oil cream with 95% natural and derived natural ingredients
- Formulation 5 : Savvy oil-in-water cream with 94% natural and derived natural ingredients
- Table 1 : New seb in bio-based carrier compatibility profilePermalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36605
in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021) . - p. 83-85[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22883 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Les textures transforment l'expérience client / Stéphanie Reymond in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° 72 (11-12/2021)
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Titre : Les textures transforment l'expérience client Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stéphanie Reymond, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 30-37 Langues : Multilingue (mul) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Texture
Dermo-cosmétologie
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
TexturantsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Avec une sensorialité toujours plébiscitée et l'importance que revêt l'expérience produit, la galénique devient un critère de différenciation et une promesse de fidélisation pour les marques. Les textures à transformations, en convoquant un ou plusieurs sens, sont des drivers de l'innovation. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/19fqrNZncA4Qs6JW16kCe5q8knodSovWB/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36831
in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE > N° 72 (11-12/2021) . - p. 30-37[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23118 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Transforming textures : Tagua nut seed powder / François Bouton in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 1 (01/2022)
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Titre : Transforming textures : Tagua nut seed powder Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : François Bouton, Auteur ; Amélie Dormoy, Auteur ; Nina Uzeldinger, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 65-67 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Additifs
Cosmétiques -- Texture
Exfoliants
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Noix de tagua et constituants
Produits nettoyants
TexturantsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Why do consumers need transforming textures ? The feedback Brenntag has received from them down the years suggests that there are several key reasons. Serums are not nourishing enough, according to some ; others say that oils are often too greasy and form a 'puddle' effect that spreads but does not penetrate ; others say that gels tend to stick and then dry out.
Today, consumers want to be amazed by a personal care product and texture is absolutely critical to this process. It happens in the first instance because of the fragrance, which is the first criterion for the initial purchase and subsequent brand loyalty to a product. The second factor is the sensory one, touch.
Humans are connected to the world through their senses and it is important to create a very good experience with a product that they can engage with. In particular, people appreciate that a texture is transformed when it comes into contact with their skin. Brands have understood this and have made their formulators work on new galenics that bring together the strengths of several textures :
Cosmetic product performance, which is based on three pillars, all of which must be present in any successful product :
- Safety : the protection of the consumer and its environment
- Efficiency : bringing the performance that guarantees consumer satisfaction
- Sensory : improving the consumer's pleasure in the use of a productNote de contenu : - Transforming texture
- Focus on tagua nut
- Properties of tagua nut
- Tagua nut vs. PMMA
- Other concepts
- Table 1 : Prototype formulation for gel
- Fig. 1 : Tagua nut in its shell
- Fig. 2 : Hardness of formulation at different concentration with tagua nut seed powder & dulse at different granulometries
- Fig. 3 : Nuts & mango body scrub
- Fig. 4 : PMMA powder vs. 15µm & 28µm tagua nut seed powder at 10% in emulsion
- Fig. 5 : Powder-to-foam hand and body cleanserEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/18Q8THtuTUFuVwsqfFmmUq6SF2a-TRqmb/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37094
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23094 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Unique textures via natural-derived modifiers / Joel Basilan in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 1 (01/2022)
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