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Skin anti-ageing properties of a microalga extract / Giorgio Dell'Acqua in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 2 (02/2022)
[article]
Titre : Skin anti-ageing properties of a microalga extract Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Giorgio Dell'Acqua, Auteur ; Francesca Germani, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 35-37 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Algues unicellulaires
Antiâge
Biomolécules actives
Collagène -- Synthèse
Cosmétiques
Dermo-cosmétologie
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Microalgae are considered to be single-cell factories. When cultivated in bioreactors, they consistently produce a sustainable and safe biomass through an optimal photosynthesis process, where culture media, pH, temperature, nutrients, and levels of dissolved oxygen and CO2 are strictly controlled. The biomass is rich in active ingredients with healthy benefits, including sugars, amino acids, lipids, polyphenols and vitamins.
While the lipidic fraction of microalgae has found applications in biofuels and nutritional supplements, the additional presence in the water-fraction of high levels of carbohydrates, amino acids and polyphenols has supported the use of microalgae extracts in cosmetics as well, specifically for their antioxidant, antiinflammatory, moisturising, lightening and antiageing properties.
Moreover, by cultivating microalgae and controlling their growth as well as their content, it is possible to produce functional actives sustainably and reproducibly. This optimised process reduces the need for a wild source, and is therefore more sustainable and also cleaner because there is no risk of pollutants.
We cultivated a specific Nannochloropsis microalga from the North Sea, Nannochloropsis Granulata, in controlled and optimised conditions. This microalga, which was first identified in the mid-1990s,6 has a high photosynthetic efficiency, with a large biomass. While the lipid component of the microalga is usually directed towards the nutritional supply chain, the remaining water-soluble fraction is mostly viewed as a by-product and wasted.
Because of its value, we extracted the watersoluble fraction containing sugars, amino acids and polyphenols, and concentrated it in an active ingredient for topical use. We then tested the capacity of the product, whose trade name is Akosky Vanity (INCI : Glycerin, Aqua (Water), Nannochloropsis Granulata Extract), to reduce skin ageing, specifically its ability to stimulate collagen production in cell lines and to increase skin firmness and elasticity in healthy volunteers when applied in a finished formulation.Note de contenu : - Extract preparation & analysis
- In vitro testing
- Clinical study
- Statistical analysisEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1J0gLOYC7vCogCLrybRodOfqivXckHuyP/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37231
in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 23, N° 2 (02/2022) . - p. 35-37[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23178 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Stabilised Potentilla polyphenols fight skin ageing / Julie Droux in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017)
[article]
Titre : Stabilised Potentilla polyphenols fight skin ageing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Julie Droux, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 155-158 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides
Biomolécules actives
Collagène -- Synthèse
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Polyphénols
Stress oxydatifIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Over time the ageing process changes skin structure. Damage caused by free radicals prevents normal cellular function and, among other things, the different skin layers become atrophied. The cutaneous relief quality is degraded, skin becomes rough, loses its firmness and wrinkles begin to form. These ageing signs, that appear on the skin surface, have to be reversed from the depth and net just visibly improved.
Consumers become aware that skin ageing is an unavoidable phenomenon : it happens to each of us, all the time and everywhere, no matter our lifestyle. However, we embrace a new age of ageing : self-confidence is no longer just about looking younger because growing older is better and better accepted — but also to look good for yourself. The search for new action mechanisms is still required to decrease side effects and to improve appearance together with skin texture. Some women are willing to use aesthetic treatment in order to improve their appearance and some others prefer a more natural way: using efficient molecules extracted from plants.
Note de contenu : - Skin ageing : a natural process
- Stabilised polyphenol
- Potentilla, a tremendous polyphenol source
- Epidermal and dermal structure improvement : ex vivo studies : Effect on oxidative stress - Collagen synthesis
- Skin texture improvement : clinical studies : Anti-glycation activity - Anti-wrinkle activity
- FIGURES : 1. Phytovector technology : Polyphenol - Stabilised polyphenol - Bioavailable polyphenol - 2. Stimulation of collagen III synthesis on skin explant at 0.50% - 3. Anti-wrinkle activity of potentilla rhizome extract after 28 days of treatment at 0.50%En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UHzQU3TKMyplEZrK9rU0yeqwuYTvoAn-/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28355
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017) . - p. 155-158[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 18819 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Switching focus : From stretch mark to bikini / Stefan Hettwer in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 7 (07/2016)
[article]
Titre : Switching focus : From stretch mark to bikini : smart collagen vanagement with bulbine frutescens Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stefan Hettwer, Auteur ; Brigit Suter, Auteur ; Barbara Obermayer, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 24-28 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives
Collagène -- Synthèse
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
VergeturesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The leaf sap from the South African medicinal plant Bulbine frutescens is an ideal starter material for a new natural collagen booster. It stimulates collagen synthesis without the inflammatory processes that would result in overdrive. In this way, it provides the skin with an extra portion of high-quality collagen and paves the way for exciting applications to fill wrinkles or lift sagging skin. Indeed, we show that an active ingredient based on Bulbine frutescens leaf juice (LIFTONIN'-XPERT) simultaneously acts as a biological filler for hollow skin and as a lifting agent for sagging skin.
Here we focus on its anti-stretch mark efficacy. Stretch marks are unsightly skin aberrations that have a significant impact on self-confidence and the willingness to show the skin in public, e.g. at the beach on holiday. There is a big market for anti-stretch mark products since 30 % of all women end up with stretch marks during puberty and 70% face them following pregnancy. We show that this active ingredient visibly and measurably reduces stretch marks and hence renews self-esteem.
Bulbine frutescens leaf juice represents a promising regimen in situations where extra collagen is required — be it wrinkles, sagging skin, stretch marks or even tattoo aftercare.Note de contenu : - Different problems, but a single cause
- Collagen in the dermis
- Collagen and skin ageing
- Boosting collagen in the right way
- Bulbine frutescens - South African medicinal plant
- Active ingredient
- Bulbine acts as a collagen filler and lifting agent
- Byb-by stretch mark - Hello bikini
- Bulbine reduces the appearance of stretch marksPermalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26758
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 7 (07/2016) . - p. 24-28[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 18222 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible The beauty of biodesign : new frontier for collagen / Paul Mouser in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 24, N° 3 (03/2023)
[article]
Titre : The beauty of biodesign : new frontier for collagen Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Paul Mouser, Auteur ; Erin Turner, Auteur ; Michela Caffrey, Auteur ; Nick Ouzounov, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 73-76 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Biotechnologie
Collagène
Collagène -- Synthèse
Dermo-cosmétologie
Hyaluronique, acideL'acide hyaluronique est un type de polysaccharide (plus précisément une glycosaminoglycane) non fixé à une protéine centrale et largement réparti parmi les tissus conjonctifs, épithéliaux et nerveux animaux.
Il se trouve notamment dans l'humeur vitrée et le liquide synovial. Il est l'un des principaux composants de la matrice extracellulaire ainsi que de certaines mucoprotéines lorsqu'il est associé à une fraction protéique.
Depuis les années 1990, il est très utilisé dans divers dispositifs médicaux, médicamenteux et cosmétiques (présenté dans ce dernier cas comme "antistatique, humectant, hydratant, conditionneur cutané, anti-âge, etc."), bénéficiant d'un effet de mode grandement soutenu par une large publicité commerciale.
Contribuant de façon significative à la prolifération et à la migration des cellules, l'acide hyaluronique est aussi impliqué dans la progression de certains cancers. (Wikipedia)
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Today's beauty consumer demands sustainable, animal-free, and performance driven products. These shifting sentiments put active ingredients in the spotlight and demand innovation. Biodesign is rising to the challenge. This approach to product development combines advances in computational biology and precision fermentation to deliver the best of nature's depth and diversity to consumers. White many are familiar with biotechnology's first breakthrough ingredient — hyaluronic acid (HA) — proteins like collagen have rapidly emerged as the pioneering products enabled by biodesign.
HA from microbial fermentation paved the way for future fermentation-derived bioactive ingredients. In 1998 scientists at Savient Pharmaceuticals successfully produced high molecular weight HA, historically sourced from rooster combs, through precision fermentation of the microorganism Streptococcus zooepidemicus' Biotechnology unlocked the potential to create sustainable alternatives to animal-derived molecules that eliminate unethical practices, complicated supply chains, and the use of environmentally harsh chemical processes.
Collagen is another popular ingredient in beauty and an important target for biodesign as it is the most abundant protein in the human body, responsible for structure, stability, and strength within the dermal layers. In addition to its essential structural function, collagen is a signaling molecule defining cellular activities.
There are at least 28 types of collagen identified in the body, all sharing a common triple helix structure yet differing in a- chain composition.Note de contenu : - ECM stimulation - in vitro
- ECM stimulation - in vivo
- Endogenous production of HAEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Li5Umjr68-AgSK7CTMRg_ernPoYd-Fso/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38985
in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 24, N° 3 (03/2023) . - p. 73-76[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23899 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Three-level green biotech protection of skin collagen / Roberto Dal Toso in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 3, N° 3 (09/2010)
[article]
Titre : Three-level green biotech protection of skin collagen Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Roberto Dal Toso, Auteur ; Francesca Melandri, Auteur Année de publication : 2010 Article en page(s) : p. 51-54 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Antienzymes
CollagénasesLes collagénases sont des enzymes capables de rompre les liaisons peptidiques du collagène. Elles facilitent la destruction des structures extracellulaires lors de la pathogenèse bactérienne. Ce sont des exotoxines.
La production de collagénases peut être induite lors d'une réponse immunitaire, par les cytokines qui stimulent les cellules telles que les fibroblastes et les ostéoplastes et occasionnent indirectement des lésions tissulaires.
Collagène -- Synthèse
Fibroblastes
Peau -- Effet du rayonnement ultraviolet
Produits naturels
Stress oxydatif
Tabac -- Effets physiologiques
Vieillissement cutanéIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Note de contenu : - AIM OF THE STUDY
- MATERIALS AND METHODS : Gardenia jasminoide meristem cell culture - Stimulation of collagen neosynthesis - Inhibition of collagenase - MMP1 synthesis in experimentally-aged fibroblasts
- RESULTS : Stimulation of new collagen synthesis - Inhibition of collagenase - Inhibition of MMPA releasePermalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10366
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 3, N° 3 (09/2010) . - p. 51-54[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 012509 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Tripeptide offers anti-ageing and multi-ethnic relevance / Mathias Gempeler in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015)
PermalinkLes vertus et bienfaits de l'argile verte du Velay / Sandrine Pélisson in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors série (12/2017)
PermalinkWrinkle reduction in post-menopausal women consuming a novel oral supplement : a double-blind placebo-controlled randomized study / G. Jenkins in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 36, N° 1 (02/2014)
PermalinkZinc l-pyrrolidone carboxylate inhibits the UVA-induced production of matrix metalloproteinase-1 by in vitro cultured skin fibroblasts, whereas it enhances their collagen synthesis / Y. Takino in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 34, N° 1 (02/2012)
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