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Leather ageing and hexavalent chromium formation as a function of the fatliquoring agent. Part II : Chrome retanned leathers / Ramón Palop in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 92, N° 6 (11-12/2008)
[article]
Titre : Leather ageing and hexavalent chromium formation as a function of the fatliquoring agent. Part II : Chrome retanned leathers Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ramón Palop, Auteur ; Joan Parareda, Auteur ; Olga Ballùs, Auteur ; Agusti Marsal, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 237-239 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chrome hexavalent
Cuir -- Effet du rayonnement ultraviolet
Cuirs et peaux -- Détérioration
Cuirs et peaux -- Effets de la température
Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés organoleptiques
Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés physiques
Produits de nourriture du cuir
Retannage
Tannage au chromeIndex. décimale : 675.2 Préparation du cuir naturel. Tannage Résumé : In this second part, we assessed the influence of a chromium retanning process applied to wet-blue hides fatliquored with eighteen different fatliquoring agents on yellowing, detanning and Cr(VI) formation after exposure to the separate effects of temperature and ultraviolet light. The results obtained for chromium retanned leathers are compared with those of non-retanned leathers in Part I.
The temperature test gave rise to less yellowing in chromium-retanned leathers than in non-retanned leathers. As for shrinkage temperature, there were no linear variations although a tendency to lower shrinkage in the retanned samples was observed.
Amounts of hexavalent chromium varied as a function of the fatliquor type. It may be concluded that the oxidised chromium present resulted from residual or weakly fixed chromium from the retanning process. Regarding fastness to ultraviolet light, both yellowing and shrinkage temperature reduction were lower in chromium retanned leathers.
Eight fatliquoring agents were selected in line with the results obtained. Their behaviour with respect to physical and organoleptic properties was compared with that of a sulphated triglyceride used as reference. The most suitable fatliquoring agents were suggested for four different leather articles.Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL PROCEDURE : Materials and methods - Evaluation of the treated samples
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Effect of temperature - Effect of light
- BEHAVIOUR OF SELECTED FATLIQUORING AGENTS V. PHYSICAL AND ORGANOLEPTIC PROPERTIES : Comparison with a standard process - Results
- CONCLUSIONS : Selection of fatliquoring agents for different leather articles
- Table 1 : Process details
- Table 2 : Fatliquoring agents used with their iodine index
- Table 3 : Variation of the properties (%Δ) compared with the reference except fogging, which refers to the absolute values for each fatliquoring agentEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1U17gAnTjeWUhI1pnG6jm0c0MEj4I70j9/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38991
in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 92, N° 6 (11-12/2008) . - p. 237-239[article]Leather property : looseness / Karl Flowers in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 37 (09-10/2019)
[article]
Titre : Leather property : looseness Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Karl Flowers, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 30-33 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés mécaniques
Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés physiques
Cuirs et peaux de bovins
Relachement (mécanique)Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : The fine or coarse wrinkles that appear on the grain side of a leather bent concavely are known in the tanning community as looseness. A leather with the absence of wrinkles will be described as a tight-grained leather. A leather with large, coarse wrinkles that develop particularly with time will be described as loose-grained leather.
The leather technologist focusses on two main leather-maldng layers : the grain (corium minor) and the corium (corium major). The transition from the grain to the corium is hypothetically dealt with by a zone known as the grain-corium junction. Many scientists attribute this zone, in bovine leather, as the horizontal zone at the base of the hair follicles.
Many animal types exhibit differing degrees of looseness and this is often due to the presence of dermal fat. The removal of that fat during the leather-making process will leave the material porous and prone to loose-grain in the final leather article. The density and proximity of the leather fibres also plays a major role in the natural tendency/ aversion to loose-grain. The belly/axillae region of the hide and skin (a naturally loose structured area) tend to have poor grain tightness. An exaggerated opening up during the beamhouse will increase the incidence of the looseness, particularly in some animais (e.g. buffalo).
The heart of the looseness problem is twofold : the looseness can develop during wear, with extremes including delamination of the grain away from the corium; the leather is already loose - but unevenly loose - making the cutting of the leather article difficult to match (in terms of consistent visual pattern). Many leathers, such as floating grain leathers and other mill-grain effects, are intentionally loose in grain structure.Note de contenu : - Beam theory
- Looseness testing
- Fig. 1 : Tigh-grained leathers bending in on the grain. Blue arrows showing long extension and yellow arrows showing compression of the grain. Modified from Haines and Barlow (1975)
- Fig. 2 : Loose-grained leathers bending in on the grain. Blue arrows showing lower extension and yellow arrows showing compression of the grain. Modified from Haines and Barlow (1975)
- Table 1 : An outline of some of the techniques to measure leather tightnessEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1b_KDRs5_dLuT-7RDDJlW4ZGIAgJMctkI/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33621
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21384 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Leather property : water resistance / Karl Flowers in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 38 (11-12/2019)
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Titre : Leather property : water resistance Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Karl Flowers, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 30-35 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Angle de contact
Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés physiques
Emulsions
Perméabilité
Résistance à l'humidité:Résistance à l'eauIndex. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : The concept of making the surface of something not like water is central to malcing the water not want to move through the material's structure, and not want to stick to its surface. The way that water interacts with a material's surface is govemed by the force or attraction or repulsion between the water and the chemical molecules on (andin) a material's structure.
The contact angle between the water and the material surface illustrates how much, or how little, the water is attracted to the material. In Figure 1, the two extremes of the contact angle can be seen. Figure lA is the normal attraction seen between everyday objects and a droplet of water. The water flows out and seems to be attracted to the chemical molecules on the material surface; it can be said there is hydrophilic attraction. In Figure 1B, the opposite is seen. The water beads and seems to refuse to want to bind to the chemicals on the material surface; it can be said there is a hydrophobic repulsion.Note de contenu : - Opens vs closed water resistance
- Factors affecting water resistance
- Emulsions
- Leather fibre structure
- Maeser flexibility
- Water vapour permeability (WVP)
- Getting the technology right
- Delivery and fix
- Is it worth it ?
- Fig. 1 : A) A hydrophilic reaction between water and a material surface B) A hydrophobic interaction between water and a material surface. Both show the angle, 0 (the contact angle) that goes from the middle of the droplet up to the outer edge of the water droplet.
- Fig. 2 : The difference between open (A) and closed (B) water repellence.
- Table 1 : Current industry methods that test the abilit yof a leather to resist water or water vapourEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1R5HoOJKF6k4O0lmH_dxBPQVUdqER_-nW/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33138
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21284 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Locational differences in the physical properties of sole leather / P. L. Muthiah in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 60 (Année 1976)
[article]
Titre : Locational differences in the physical properties of sole leather Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : P. L. Muthiah, Auteur ; N. Ramanathan, Auteur Année de publication : 1976 Article en page(s) : p. 63-76 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés mécaniques
Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés physiques
Densité
Eau
Evaluation
Humidité -- Absorption
Pénétration (physique)
Perméabilité
Semelles
Tannage au chrome
Tannage végétal
Vapeur d'eauIndex. décimale : 675.2 Préparation du cuir naturel. Tannage Résumé : In order to find out the locational differences of different types of sole leathers, studies were made on samples obtained from various parts of tanned hides. For this study, the most commonly used chrome and vegetable tannages were used and the leathers were tested both in the crust and in the finished state for various physical properties. Tensile strength, elongation at break, apparent density, real density, air space, water absorption, water penetration, moisture absorption, water vapour permeability, air permeability, compressibility, resiliency, abrasion resistance and flexibility were determined on samples taken from eight different locations. The effects of tanning were assessed by determining the same physical properties on acetone dehydrated limed and delimed samples obtained from various parts of the hides. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Vegetable tanning - Chrome tanning
- EVALUATION OF PROPERTIES : Physical properties - Evaluation of results
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Extension at break - Apparent density, real density and air space - Water absorption and water penetration - Moisture absorption - Water vapour permeability and air permeability - Abrasion and flexibilityEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zFimkJaKgjUTRAQBxARW0y20ESbA92uy/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31803
in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 60 (Année 1976) . - p. 63-76[article]Exemplaires (1)
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 008596 - Périodique Archives Documentaires Exclu du prêt Locational differences in the physical properties of sole leather / P. L. Muthiah in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 60, N° 3 (05-06/1976)
[article]
Titre : Locational differences in the physical properties of sole leather Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : P. L. Muthiah, Auteur ; N. Ramanathan, Auteur Année de publication : 1976 Article en page(s) : p. 63-76 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés mécaniques
Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés physiques
Densité
Eau
Evaluation
Humidité -- Absorption
Perméabilité
Semelles
Tannage au chrome
Tannage végétal
Vapeur d'eauIndex. décimale : 675.2 Préparation du cuir naturel. Tannage Résumé : In order to find out the locational differences of different types of sole leathers, studies were made on samples obtained from various parts of tanned hides. For this study, the most commonly used chrome and vegetable tannages were used and the leathers were tested both in the crust and in the finished state for various physical properties. Tensile strength, elongation at break, apparent density, real density, air space, water absorption, water penetration, moisture absorption, water vapour permeability, air permeability, compressibility, resiliency, abrasion resistance and flexibility were determined on samples taken from eight different locations. The effects of tanning were assessed by determining the same physical properties on acetone dehydrated limed and delimed samples obtained from various parts of the hides. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Vegetable tanning - Chrome tanning
- EVALUATION OF PROPERTIES : Physical properties - Evaluation of results
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Extension at break - Apparent density, real density and air space - Water absorption and water penetration - Moisture absorption - Water vapour permeability and air permeability - Abrasion and flexibilityEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zFimkJaKgjUTRAQBxARW0y20ESbA92uy/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31868
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 007106 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Locational differences in the physical properties of upper leather / P. L. Muthiah in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 60 (Année 1976)
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