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WORLD LEATHER . Vol. 7, N° 2Mention de date : 04-05/1994Paru le : 01/04/1994 |
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Titre : Leather drying and pre-finishing updated Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 1994 Article en page(s) : p. 33-42 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Appareils et matériels
Cuirs et peaux -- Séchage
SéchoirsIndex. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Back in february/march and april/may 1988, we published its in-depth definitive review of the theory and practice of leather drying. Although in the invervening years really new and innovative concepts have not appeared in the development of leather drying, some further refinements of basically existing methods have come about. On the other hand a few of the developments which were apparently promising and enthusiastically reported upon seem to have sunk, perhaps only temporarily, with little trace. Six years on, it is time to update leather drying practice. Note de contenu : - Energy saving vacuum dryers
- Airflow drying - Heat pumps still on the backburner
- Thru'feed gains a foothold and drying combines with stretch
- Vibration free staking
- Buffing and dry
- Fig. 1 : General view of a Finvac multiple table, energy saving vacuum dryer and detail of its recirculation and heat pump circulation
- Fig. 2 : Leather on table ready for the operation
- Fig. 3 : Pneumatic stretching elements acting via the just visible membrane
- Fig. 4 : A modern version of a classic circulating frame togglingm achine - note the ergonomic toggling station
- Fig. 5 : Finclip - closed ready for toggling
- Fig. 6 : Finclip - toggles applied and leather stretched
- Fig. 7 : Close up of Vilja Finclip automatic toggling station
- Fig. 8 : Finmatic stretching and staking machine
- Fig. 9 : Unloading a milling drum
- Fig. 10 : Typical stainless steel milling drum with integral guarding
- Fig. 11 : Interior of a stainless steel milling drumEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qYm7txkZ5L6dQITKi5wCp8TcoQsb5Cp6/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35089
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Titre : Garment leather from pigskins Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 1994 Article en page(s) : p. 43 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chaulage
ConfitageLe confitage est une action biochimique effectuée au moyen de produits enzymatiques, qui a pour but de dégrader les fibres élastiques, contribuant ainsi à augmenter la souplesse du cuir. En outre, les enzymes complètent la dégradation des résidus épidermiques, donnant ainsi une fleur plus propre et plus lisse.
Cuirs et peaux -- Dégraissage
Cuirs et peaux -- Teinture
Cuirs et peaux de porcs
Neutralisation (chimie)
Produits de nourriture du cuir
Résistance à l'humidité:Résistance à l'eau
Résistance aux huiles et graisses
Tannage
Vêtements en cuirIndex. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : During the 1980s, the consumption of leathers by the clothing sector grew annually by around 5% rising to approximately 2 billion square feet a year, representing 10-15% of the total area of leather produced.
The market for these garment leathers is wide, ranging from low value articles that may be compared to cheap textile garments to high quality products with all the characteristics of presting items. These leathers are strongly represented in the fields of sports-wear and teen-clothes, where leathers are made from many types of raw materials requiring different approaches to process. Generally, garment leathers are associated with sheep, goat and bovine as raw stock, but the amount of pigskins used should not be neglected.
The quantity of this raw material used in leather production is limited as not all slaughtered pigs are flayed, the skin often being retained with themeat, or used in the production of gelatin.
Quality can also suffer according to the conditions in which the animal has been kept, and the conditions of slaughter strongly influence the hide characteristics. This tends to concentrate the production of leathers onto the flesh side for suedes and the manufacture of grain leathers, such as nappas or clasic nubuk is rather limited.
Another peculiarity found in pigskins is the difference in structure and fibre length between the backside and neck areas, and was for a long period an obstacle to the success of pigskins in the garment field.Note de contenu : - ATTENTION TO PROCESS DETAIL : Degreasing - Liming and bating - Tanning - Neutralisation and fatliquoring - Dyeing - Oil and water resistance En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/12ZLSbZAtFpZ5PkBiEqMdK2rzJ-9OXUkf/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35090
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 008092 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Considerations : washable garment leathers / BLC Leather Technology Centre in WORLD LEATHER, Vol. 7, N° 2 (04-05/1994)
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Titre : Considerations : washable garment leathers Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : BLC Leather Technology Centre, Auteur Année de publication : 1994 Article en page(s) : p. 44-45 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Lavage
Nettoyage à sec
Vêtements en cuirIndex. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : The success of the cloting leather industry has been based on the desirability of leather as a material but also on its ability to be maintained by dry cleaning. Years of experience have enabled manufacturers to select leathers to combine with textilelinings and interlinings to form a serviceable garment capable (with dry cleaning) of giving satisfaction for many years. Note de contenu : - Change in shape and area
- Difficulties from accessories
- Performance and application
- Colour computers
- The LAB colour circle
- Fig. 1 : The skirt illustrates a successful trial of a washable leather made up into a garment and washed in ECE detergent in a standard washing maching at 40°C. Neither the dimensions nor the colour had changed but the garment was cleanPermalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35091
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Titre : Washable leathers in fashion Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 1994 Article en page(s) : p. 46 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Lavage
Cuirs et peaux de daims
Essais (technologie)
Vêtements en cuirIndex. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Machine washable suedes for garments have been offered by strong and fisher since the 1970s. This range has been restricted to a pastel colour pallet by the suitability of dyes regarding colour fastness to washing, although recently the range has been developed to include darker colours.
Suede garments in these colours can be washed successfully if care is taken, but the inclusion of linings and other components can cause problems as the shrinkage rates of all these components may vary.Note de contenu : - Care of washable suede in garments
- Testing of washable leathersEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/132mtihNSWeSLKBBbNwqPOVHgRwxged3v/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35092
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Titre : Chrome tannage : The combined influence of temperature and pH Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Richard Daniels, Auteur Année de publication : 1994 Article en page(s) : p. 73-77 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chrome trivalent -- Absorption
pH
Tannage au chrome
TempératureIndex. décimale : 675.2 Préparation du cuir naturel. Tannage Résumé : In the first part of this article, it was demonstrated that the uptake of crhome is closely dependent upon temperature. After the shrinkage temperature had been safely increased in the first stages of a chrome tanning system, it was shown that temperature elevationi mproved both the uptake of chrome and the uniformity of the leathers manufactured. This made it possible to achieve the same level of chrome uptake using a lower offer and reducint the levels of chrome discharged. The findings were based on a significant number of packs of commercial production, but it was not obvious at this point in the investigation as to the relationship between pH and chrome uptake. Note de contenu : - The effect of pH at elevated temperatures
- The effect of pH at standard temperature
- The combined effect of temperature and pH on chrome uptake
- Outline tanning process : Pickle and tanning - Process control - Process developments
- Findings from the investigationEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iSXxAJaGSuxHSs34unmIklPLbjGSnqYY/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35093
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Titre : Carbon dioxide deliming Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 1994 Article en page(s) : p. 78 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux
DéchaulageOpération consistant à débarrasser les peaux de la chaux et des substances alcalines qui leur ont été appliquées au pelanage.
Dioxyde de carboneIndex. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : For more than 10 years carbon dioxide deliming has been covered by a number of authors, but only in recent years has industrial acceptance taken place, mainly due to economic and ecological reasons. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lIz32kh6ydnddHkxiWk6z-6bS0BsG86j/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35094
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Titre : The incineration of wet sludges Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 1994 Article en page(s) : p. 81 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Boues résiduaires
Cuirs et peaux -- Déchets
IncinérationIndex. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : To delivery of sludge directly on to soil long remained thepreferred method of disposal for biodegradable sludges as it was the lowest cost option. Limits came into force for tannery discharges, however, due to the high water content of the sludge and the presence of chromium compounds making disposal more problematic and incurring extra expense. With increasing restrictions on landfill options for sludges, difficulties in licensing new sites and restrictions on ocean disposal, incineration for a wide range of industries is becoming more closely considered as the remaining option. Note de contenu : - Volatisation of organic materials En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GSl2GZAHjH8cThQ8tqzJXp4eU0oPwnf9/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35095
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Titre : Chrome recovery out of tannery wastes Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Leander Veeger, Auteur Année de publication : 1994 Article en page(s) : p. 82 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chrome
Récupération (Déchets, etc.)
Tannage -- DéchetsIndex. décimale : 675.2 Préparation du cuir naturel. Tannage Résumé : The problems created by waste materials generated in the conversion of raw hides and skins into leather are well known.
Using conventional leather making technology, a highpercentage of the raw hide input remains as waste and to consider dumping this material can only remain a short term solution. Recycling of waste chemicals and the formation of new products such as glue from fleshing and amino acids from shavings are an alternative but remain expensive.Note de contenu : - Mode of incineration
- Advantages for the tanner
- Figure : Data flow for tannery thermic waste plantEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1s7tL1aAOGRtlc6Dznf-3MDe0VQuTNhLt/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35096
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