Clinical efficacy of a multilamellar cream on skin physiology and microbiome in an epidermal stress model : A controlled double-blinded study (Part I) / Joachim W. Fluhr in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 4 (08/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 4 (08/2024) . - p. 566-577 Titre : Clinical efficacy of a multilamellar cream on skin physiology and microbiome in an epidermal stress model : A controlled double-blinded study (Part I) Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Joachim W. Fluhr, Auteur ; Peter Menzel, Auteur ; Rolf Schwarzer, Auteur ; Dessyslava G. Nikolaeva, Auteur ; Razvigor Darlenski, Auteur ; Martin Albrecht, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 566-577 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Composés lamellaires Dermo-cosmétologie Emollients Formulation (Génie chimique) Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité Microbiologie Microbiome cutané Peau -- Physiologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène pH Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - INTRODUCTION : Stratum corneum (SC) is essential for skin barrier function, mitigating water loss and shielding against potentially harmful substances and allergens. The SC's lipid matrix, arranged in a lamellar structure, is integral to its protective role. Our study explores the restoration effects of a multilamellar cream with an acidic pH compared to a basic placebo cream on skin physiology and its interaction with the skin microbiome after stress induction via tape stripping (TS). - MATERIALS AND METHODS : In this double-blind study, 14 healthy participants aged 21–58 years were assessed pre- and post-tape stripping, followed by a 14 days application of a multilamellar test cream and a placebo cream with evaluations on days 7, 14 and 17 for sustained effects. Skin physiology was analysed in terms of epidermal barrier function, SC hydration and surface pH. The microbiome was analysed by 16S rRNA amplicon sequencing the 16S rRNA gene using Illumina MiSeq, with subsequent species identification. - RESULTS : Our study showed significant improvements in skin barrier repair and SC hydration with verum, particularly after 14 days of application, while both creams initially enhanced stratum corneum hydration. No significant changes in surface-pH were detected. The skin microbiome analysis revealed that TS slightly decreased alpha diversity, a trend that verum significantly reversed, enhancing diversity beyond baseline levels after 14 days. Overall, while both creams contributed to a broader microbial phyla diversity over time, no significant changes in the abundance of specific genera or species were noted between treatments. - DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSION : Our study delineates the efficacy of a pH-optimized multilamellar cream in enhancing epidermal barrier recovery and SC hydration post-sequential TS, in contrast to an unstructured basic placebo. Verum cream significantly improved skin barrier function and SC hydration at day 14, with sustained effects evident beyond the treatment period. Furthermore, the multilamellar formulation facilitated the restitution of cutaneous microbiome diversity, a key indicator of healthy skin ecology, underscoring the symbiotic relationship between barrier integrity and microbial composition. These findings underscore the importance of multilamellar emollient structures in dermatological therapeutics, with potential implications for the design of advanced skincare interventions that holistically support cutaneous resilience and homeostasis. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Study approval and participants - Study design - Skin physiology parameters - Test formulations - Microbiome assessment - Sequence analysis - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Participant characterization and measuring conditions - Skin physiology - Microbiome DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12950 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1U0a6kkQUzXUuQE9keMO6rSFr2mHLmLK5/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41355 [article]

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Impact of multilamellar formulations on stratum corneum lipid organization and epidermal lipid barrier enhancement (Part II) / Joachim W. Fluhr in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 4 (08/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 4 (08/2024) . - p. 578-589 Titre : Impact of multilamellar formulations on stratum corneum lipid organization and epidermal lipid barrier enhancement (Part II) Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Joachim W. Fluhr, Auteur ; Razvigor Darlenski, Auteur ; Stephan Daehnhardt-Pfeiffer, Auteur ; Martin Albrecht, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 578-589 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Composés lamellaires Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Emollients Lécithine La phosphatidylcholine est plus connue sous le nom lécithine. Au sens le plus strict, la lécithine désigne uniquement les phosphatidylcholines c'est-à-dire un lipide formé à partir d'une choline, d'un phosphate, d'un glycérol et de deux acides gras (figure). Dans ce contexte, il serait plus juste de parler des lécithines, car il ne s'agit pas d'une seule molécule mais d'un groupe dont la composition en acide gras varie d'une molécule à l'autre. Ainsi, les lécithines vont adopter diverses couleurs selon leur composition : du jaune, pour la lécithine végétale, au brun, pour la lécithine de poisson. Le terme de lécithine est aussi utilisé par extension pour désigner l'ensemble des phospholipides extraits du vivant (par exemple le soja), dans la mesure où ils sont majoritairement constitués de phosphatidylcholine. Microscopie électronique en transmission Peau -- Soins et hygiène pH Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - INTRODUCTION : The integrity of the stratum corneum (SC) is crucial for the skin's barrier function, protecting against environmental stressors and minimizing transepidermal water loss. Advances in skincare formulations have introduced multilamellar systems designed to emulate the SC's lipid composition and organization. This study hypothesizes that the application of a multilamellar cream will significantly impact the SC's lipid content and lamellar structure, thereby enhancing the epidermal barrier. - METHODS : A saturated phosphatidylcholine-based multilamellar cream was applied to a cohort of adult subjects with very dry skin. Electron microscopy was utilized to analyse the micro-morphology of the cream and its integration into the lipid-depleted SC. Lipid analysis was conducted to quantify changes in the intercellular lipid matrix. - RESULTS : Transmission-electron microscopy (TEM) imaging demonstrated that the multilamellar cream possesses a structured arrangement comparable to the natural SC architecture. Short-term application revealed a time-dependent restoration of lipid bilayers, while a 14-day regimen showed a marked increase in lipid lamellae density and length within the SC. Lipid analysis indicated a significant increase in total lipid content, with notable enhancements in ceramide and free fatty acid levels, without altering cholesterol levels. Lipid ratio analysis further confirmed the rebalancing of the SC's lipid composition. - DISCUSSION : The multilamellar cream selectively increased specific lipids critical for barrier function, suggesting an action mechanism that aligns with the skin's natural regulatory processes. This selective augmentation indicates the potential of the formulation to not only restore but also enhance the epidermal barrier, with the maintenance of physiological lipid ratios suggesting compatibility with intrinsic repair mechanisms. - CONCLUSION : The study confirms that a multilamellar cream can significantly improve the SC's lipid composition and structural integrity, indicating enhanced barrier function. They are pivotal for skincare professionals, dermatologists, and product developers, enriching the understanding of multilamellar creams' benefits and applications in improving epidermal barrier function. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Cream formulation - Ultrastructure analysis of cream vehicle - Ultrastructure analysis of treated skin - Lipid analysis by HPTLC - Study population - Statistics - RESULTS : Lipid morphology of the multilamellar formulation - Enhanced lipid bilayers in vivo by short-term application - Enhanced lipid bilayers in vivo in a 14-day application - Improved composition of critical barrier lipids in vivo in a 14-day application DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12971 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1e6txw5orQ1eu7htXGVIdPivCYwQt5sbh/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41356 [article]

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