New alternatives to cosmetic preservation / S. Papageorgiou in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 4, N° 4 (11/2011)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 4, N° 4 (11/2011) . - p. 85-93 Titre : New alternatives to cosmetic preservation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. Papageorgiou, Auteur ; Athanasia Varvaresou, Auteur ; E. Tsirivas, Auteur ; C. Demetzos, Auteur Année de publication : 2011 Article en page(s) : p. 85-93 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antimicrobiens Conservateurs (chimie) Formulation (Génie chimique) Huiles essentielles Matériaux -- Propriétés fonctionnelles Microbiologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In recent years, there has been considerable interest in the development of preservative-free or self-preserving cosmetics. The aim of our work was to develop new cosmetic formulations by replacing chemical preservatives with ingredients with antimicrobial properties that are not legislated as preservatives according to Annex VI of Commission Directive 76/768/EEC. This paper describes the preservative efficacy of the well-known antimicrobial extracts of Lonicera caprifoleum and Lonicera japonica in combination with glyceryl caprylate and/or levulinic acid, p-anisic acid, and ethanol. We prepared a series of acidic (pH=5.5) aqueous and 0/W formulations, i.e., tonic lotion, shampoo, shower gel, conditioning cream, anticellulite cream, cleansing milk and peeling cream, containing (0.2% w/w) Lonicera extracts, alone in the case of tonic lotion and in combination with (1% w/w) glyceryl caprylate in the other products, and we performed challenge tests according to the European Pharmacopoeia procedures and criteria. Formulations such as shampoo, shower gel, and conditioning cream fulfilled criterion A, while tonic lotion, anticellulite cream, cleansing milk, and peeling cream fulfilled criterion B, in regard to contamination from Aspergillus niger. Furthermore, we evaluated the efficacy of the antimicrobial systems in two states of use: the intact product and after three weeks of consumer use. The results showed that A. figer was also detected during use by consumers in the products that satisfied only criterion B in challenge tests. The addition of antimicrobial fragrance ingredients such as (50.3% w/w) levulinic acid or (0.1% w/w) p-anisic acid and/or (5% w/w) ethanol afforded products that met criterion A in challenge tests and were also microbiologically safe during use. The small quantity (5% w/w) of ethanol gave an important assistance in order to boost the self-preserving system and to produce stable and safe products. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Cosmetic formulations - Essentials oils and multifunctional ingredients with antimicrobial activity - Organisms and inoculum preparation - Microbial challenges tests (preservative efficacy tests, PETs) according to the European Pharmacopoeia (E. Ph.) - Microbiological quality in two states of use : intact product and following three weeks to use - RESULTS : Microbiological quality of the test product - Physicochemical stability - Water activity En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pjsYGT1Vr4YE8TFmTV7MFZZOV6SJvRxA/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40981 [article]

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