Transparent silicone-free shampoo containing proteins with strong hair conditioning properties / Ping Li in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 106-118 Titre : Transparent silicone-free shampoo containing proteins with strong hair conditioning properties Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ping Li, Auteur ; Tongtong Zhang, Auteur ; Shizhi Zhao, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 106-118 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Formulation (Génie chimique) Hydrolysats de protéines Pénétration capillaire shampooings Silicones -- Suppression ou remplacement Transparence (optique) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : With the constant upgrading of healthcare concepts, silicone-free hair products have attracted more attention among consumers. In the present study, transparent silicone-free shampoo containing proteins was successfully fabricated by mixing mild non-sulphate surfactants, compound cationic conditioners, natural silicone oil substitutes, protein conditioners, thickeners, and other auxiliary ingredients. The effects of the type of surfactants, hair conditioners and thickeners, the type and content of proteins, and the mass ratio of compound proteins on the hair foaming performance, hair grooming performance, and penetration performance were investigated. - Methods : The basic formulation framework for transparent silicone-free shampoo was established at first. Then, various hydrolyzed proteins were further added to the basic formulation in the form of single use or compound use to prepare transparent silicone-free shampoo containing different proteins. The morphology of hair samples and penetration of protein in hair were evaluated with a scanning electron microscope and laser confocal fluorescence microscopy, respectively. And the hair grooming performance was also determined by a dynamic combing tester. - Results : The compound proteins of Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD and Gluadin® Kera-PLM with mass ratios of 1:9 and 1:1 at 2 wt% total protein content added to the silicone-free shampoo brought a higher contact angle and a lower frictional coefficient than commercial silicone-free shampoo without proteins. In addition, the compound proteins also have the dual effect of adsorbing the hair surface and penetrating deep into the interior of the hair. - Conclusion : The combination of cationic modified hydrolyzed protein (e.g., Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD) and hydrolyzed protein with low molecular weight (e.g., Gluadin® Kera-P LM) at an appropriate mass ratio exhibited a strong synergistic effect on hair conditioning properties. It could provide a significant reference for developing silicone-free hair products with more benefits. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Characterization - Foaming performance test - Evaluation of hair grooming performance - Evaluation of hair penetration performance - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Basic formulation framework of transparent silicone-free shampoo - Non-sulphate surfactants - Hair conditioners - Thickeners - Transparent silicone-free shampoo containing protein conditioners - Morphology - Hair grooming performance - Hair penetration performance - Table 1 : Summary of the major proteins - Table 2 : The proportion of the compound proteins in the shampoo formulation DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12913 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DC7FNx60wr6uWZ6YD7H0V1cMvlH3O21f/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40583 [article]

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