L-4-thiazolylalanine (Protinol), a novel non-proteinogenic amino acid, demonstrates epidermal and dermal efficacy with clinically observable benefits / Gloria Portocarrero Huang in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 24-38 Titre : L-4-thiazolylalanine (Protinol), a novel non-proteinogenic amino acid, demonstrates epidermal and dermal efficacy with clinically observable benefits Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gloria Portocarrero Huang, Auteur ; Jolanta Idkowiak-Baldys, Auteur ; Frank Liebel, Auteur ; Constantina Jones, Auteur ; Coline Haxaire, Auteur ; Lisa DiNatale, Auteur ; Ardeshir Bayat, Auteur ; John R. Glynn, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 24-38 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acides aminés Les acides aminés (ou aminoacides) sont une classe de composés chimiques possédant deux groupes fonctionnels : à la fois un groupe carboxyle –COOH et un groupe amine –NH2. Parmi ceux-ci, les acides α-aminés se définissent par le fait que leur groupe amine est lié à l'atome de carbone adjacent au groupe acide carboxylique (le carbone α), ce qui leur confère la structure générique H2N–CHR–COOH, où R représente la chaîne latérale, qui identifie l'acide α-aminé. Les acides α-aminés jouent un rôle fondamental en biochimie comme constituants élémentaires des protéines : ils polymérisent en formant des liaisons peptidiques qui aboutissent à de longues chaînes macromoléculaires appelées peptides. Antiâge:Antirides Collagène Dermo-cosmétologie Justification de l'allégation Peau -- Anatomie Peau -- Physiologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Facial skin undergoes major structural and functional changes as a result of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. The goal of the current work is to demonstrate L-4-thiazolylalaine (L4, Protinol), a non-proteinogenic amino acid shown to stimulate the production of dermal proteins by fibroblasts, is an alternative efficacious topical ingredient for visible signs of ageing. - Methods : In vitro studies using 3D human skin tissue models were performed to show changes in protein and gene expression of key dermal markers in samples treated with 0.3% L4 compared to vehicle control. In vivo evaluation of skin turnover was measured in volunteers after treatment with L4 compared to retinol. Skin biopsies (n = 30) were taken to investigate epidermal and dermal changes in cases treated with L4 and compared to retinol. Finally, a clinical evaluation (n = 28) was conducted to assess the efficacy of L4 over a base formulation using various ageing parameters within a population of women 46–66 years old with mild-to-moderate wrinkles. - Results : In vitro studies on 3D tissues displayed significant changes in the dermal matrix via an increase in HA and pro-collagen I production and a decrease in the expression of inflammatory genes. In vivo biopsy studies demonstrated that L4 and retinol independently increased epidermal thickness and collagen remodelling significantly more compared with the base formula. Clinical evaluation showed firmer and smoother skin at day 28 post-treatment with L4 over the vehicle control without causing side effects such as redness or irritation. - Conclusion : L4 is a novel, multi-functional ingredient which offers a superior alternative to currently available technologies for improving epidermal and dermal parameters that change during ageing and photodamage. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : In vitro analysis using 3D human skin equivalents - Gene expression from EFT400 3D tissue - Skin fluorescence measurements - In vivo treatments and histological analysis - Split-face clinical study - Firming measurements - Smoothing and wrinkle measurements - Sagging measurements - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : L4 has pronounced effect on skin matrix components in vitro - In vivo histological analysis confirms the efficacy of L4 on epidermal and dermal components - L4 improves clinical benefits on firming, smoothing, wrinkles and sagging versus base formula after 28 days DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12887 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YZrxPHlli-4T7bMqlG6M8KHb9zQX9hMh/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40576 [article]

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Effect of L-4-Thiazolylalanine (Protinolâ„¢) on skin barrier strength and skin protection / C. Haxaire in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 6 (12/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 6 (12/2023) . - p. 725-738 Titre : Effect of L-4-Thiazolylalanine (Protinolâ„¢) on skin barrier strength and skin protection Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : C. Haxaire, Auteur ; F. Liebel, Auteur ; Gloria Portocarrero Huang, Auteur ; S. Chen, Auteur ; Jolanta Idkowiak-Baldys, Auteur ; J. Glynn, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 725-738 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acides aminés Les acides aminés (ou aminoacides) sont une classe de composés chimiques possédant deux groupes fonctionnels : à la fois un groupe carboxyle –COOH et un groupe amine –NH2. Parmi ceux-ci, les acides α-aminés se définissent par le fait que leur groupe amine est lié à l'atome de carbone adjacent au groupe acide carboxylique (le carbone α), ce qui leur confère la structure générique H2N–CHR–COOH, où R représente la chaîne latérale, qui identifie l'acide α-aminé. Les acides α-aminés jouent un rôle fondamental en biochimie comme constituants élémentaires des protéines : ils polymérisent en formant des liaisons peptidiques qui aboutissent à de longues chaînes macromoléculaires appelées peptides. Anti-inflammatoires Antioxydants Barrière cutanée Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture Dermo-cosmétologie Marqueurs biologiques Peau -- Physiologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Protection cutanée Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objectives : Skin barrier properties are critical for maintaining epidermal water content, protecting from environmental factors and providing the first line of defense against pathogens. In this study, we investigated the non-proteinogenic amino acid L-4-Thiazolylalanine (L4) as a potential active ingredient in skin protection and barrier strength. - Methods : L4 on wound healing, anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties were evaluated using monolayers and 3D skin equivalents. The transepithelial electrical resistance (TEER) value was used in vitro as a strong indicator of barrier strength and integrity. Clinical L4 efficacy was assessed for the evaluation of the skin barrier integrity and soothing benefits. - Results : In vitro treatments of L4 show beneficial effects in wound closure mechanism, and we demonstrate that L4 anti-oxidant benefits with markedly increased HSP70 and decreased reactive oxygen species production induced by UVs exposure. Barrier strength and integrity were significantly improved by L4, confirmed clinically by an increase in 12R-lipoxygenase enzymatic activity in the stratum corneum. In addition, soothing benefits of L4 have been shown clinically with the decrease in redness after methyl nicotinate application on the inner arm and the significant reduction of the erythema and the skin desquamation on the scalp. - Conclusion : L4 delivered multiple skin benefits by strengthening the skin barrier, accelerating the skin repair process as well as soothing the skin and the scalp with anti-inflammaging effects. The observed efficacy validates L4 as a desirable skincare ingredient for topical treatment. Note de contenu : - METHODS : Cell and tissue culture - Treatments - Keratinocyte contraction assay - Wound healing assay - HSP70 and TNFα detection - ROS detection after UVA exposure - 12R-lipoxygenase enzymatic activity quantification - HTRF assay - Transepithelial electrical resistance (TEER) and barrier disruption models - Methyl nicotinate model of induced redness - TEWL study - Clinical scalp study - Statistics - RESULTS : In vitro effects of L-4-Thiazolylalanine on the migration and contraction of dermal and epidermal cells - L-4-Thiazolylalanine effects on skin strength barrier - L-4-Thiazolylalanine effects on skin protection - Anti-inflammatory and soothing effects of L-4-Thiazolylalanine on skin and scalp DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12881 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ACRz7-M3MMjQpA12VYez_WgZqi2Maa9u/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40258 [article]

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