Natural functionalisation of a traditional textile “Ehram” / Fazilhan Yilmaz in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 139, N° 2 (04/2023)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 139, N° 2 (04/2023) . - p. 182-189 Titre : Natural functionalisation of a traditional textile “Ehram” Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Fazilhan Yilmaz, Auteur ; Ömer Aydinlioglu, Auteur ; Hüseyin Benli, Auteur ; Gülten Gültepe, Auteur ; Muhammed Ibrahim Bahtiyari, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 182-189 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antibactériens Colorimétrie Cuivre Fourier, Spectroscopie infrarouge à transformée de Laine Lavande et constituants Lumière -- Absorption Matériaux -- Propriétés fonctionnelles Mordants (chimie) Teinture -- Fibres textiles Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : This study is focused on the natural functionalisation of a traditional woven fabric called “Ehram”. Which is a wool based woven fabric constituted from wool yarns that are originally coloured and used in different cities of the Eastern Anatolian Region, Turkey. Because these fabrics were originally coloured (pigmented), the study aimed to functionalise them with minimal colour changes from their original colour. For this aim; lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) which is also a natural source of pleasant odour was used in finishing of Ehram. The colour changes by the application of the lavender on Ehram and the benefits that come out from the use of lavender were then analysed and presented in the study. In this respect, antibacterial activities (against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli) of dyed samples were tested within the scope of the study. In addition, colour measurements (K/S and CIE L*a*b* C* and ho) and FTIR (Fourier-transform infrared) microspectroscopy analyses of dyed fabric samples were made and microscope images were taken. It was observed that lavender with a copper-based mordanting agent can present antibacterial activity against S. aureus and E. coli in Ehram. Note de contenu : - MATERIAL AND METHODS : Absorbances (graph and images) of dyeing solutions - ANALYTICAL PROCEDURES : Colour analysis - FTIR analysis - Antimicrobial analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Analysis of antimicrobial activities - Table 1 : Colour values of dark brown and black processed and unprocessed Ehrams - Table 2 : The colour difference (ΔE) values according to the samples' untreated versions - Table 3 : Bacterial reduction (%) of the Ehrams DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12641 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12641 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39530 [article]

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Topping of naturally dyed wool fabrics with different natural dye sources / Hüseyin Benli in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 139, N° 2 (04/2023)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 139, N° 2 (04/2023) . - p. 171-181 Titre : Topping of naturally dyed wool fabrics with different natural dye sources Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Hüseyin Benli, Auteur ; Ömer Aydinlioglu, Auteur ; Fazilhan Yilmaz, Auteur ; Muhammed Ibrahim Bahtiyari, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 171-181 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Colorants végétaux Garance et constituants Glands et constituants Houblon et constituants Le houblon ou houblon grimpant (Humulus lupulus) est une plante herbacée vivace grimpante de la famille des Cannabaceae. Elle a parfois pour noms vernaculaires couleuvrée septentrionale, bois du diable, salsepareille indigène ou vigne du Nord. Laine Mordants (chimie) Nappage Résistance au lavage Teinture -- Fibres textiles Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : Wool fabrics can be dyed with synthetic dyes and even with natural dyes. To present a different aspect to the coloration of wool, the current study was focused on a topping process (ie, the dyeing of wool that was already dyed) with different natural dye sources. For this purpose, the fabrics that were already dyed with a natural dye source were once again dyed with two different natural dyes. In bottom dyeing (bottoming), fabrics were dyed with hops (Humulus lupulus L.) in the presence of different mordanting agents. Then the dyed, washed and dried samples were once again dyed (topping) with two different natural dye sources. For topping, powdered madder and acorn were tested in direct dyeing of wool samples. Finally, the colour changes were analysed with the use of a spectrophotometer. The study demonstrates that such a process (ie, bottoming with hops in the presence of different mordanting agents and then topping with madder or acorn) can be a way of obtaining different shades and colours with sufficient/good fastness values by natural dyeing. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials - Methods - Analytical procedures - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Colours obtained and CIE L*a*b* values using hops and acorn/madder - Images of dyeing solutions - Analysis of fastness properties - Total colour difference - SEM analysis - FTIR analysis - Table 1 : CIE L*a*b and images for bottoming- and topping-dyed hops and madder/acorn, respectively - Table 2 : Washing and rubbing fastness properties of dyed samples - Table 3 : Colour difference values for the dyed samples DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12648 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12648 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39529 [article]

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