Hair surface interactions against different chemical functional groups as a function of environment and hair condition / Leslie Labarre in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 224-235 Titre : Hair surface interactions against different chemical functional groups as a function of environment and hair condition Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Leslie Labarre, Auteur ; Ophélie Squillace, Auteur ; Yu Liu, Auteur ; Peter J. Fryer, Auteur ; Preeti Kaur, Auteur ; Shane Whitaker, Auteur ; Jennifer M. Marsh, Auteur ; Zhenyu J. Zhang, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 224-235 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse spectrale Cheveux -- analyse Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Energie de surface Formulation (Génie chimique) Produits capillaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The nature and magnitude of molecular interactions on hair surfaces underpin the design of formulated products, of which the application involves a competitive adsorption process between cationic surfactants, fatty alcohols and surface actives such as silicone. The knowledge of molecular interaction with hair surface will not only provide insight on the surface binding affinity but also offer an effective methodology in characterizing surface deposits. - Methods : Untreated and chemically treated hair samples were treated with either conditioner chassis alone (gel network) or conditioner chassis plus silicone (chassis/TAS). Hair surface interactions against four different chemical functional groups, namely methyl (-CH3), acid (-COOH), amine (-NH2) and hydroxyl (-OH), were quantified in both ambient and aqueous environment using Chemical Force Microscopy, a method based on atomic force microscopy (AFM). - Results : Surface adhesion on hair in ambient is dominated by capillary force that is determined by both the wettability of hair fibre (hydrophobic vs. hydrophilic), presence of any deposits and the chemical functionality of the AFM cantilever. Capillary force is diminished and replaced by electrostatic interaction when polar groups are present on both hair and AFM cantilever. A distinctively different force, hydrophobic interaction, plays a major role when virgin hair and hydrophobic functionalized AFM cantilever make contact in water. - Conclusion : Results acquired by AFM cantilevers of different functional groups show that hydrophobic interaction is a key driver for deposition on virgin hair, whilst electrostatic interaction is the most important one for bleached hair. Interfacial conformation of chassis components upon deposition is determined by the hair surface properties. Our study highlights the possibility of a range of polar groups, not necessarily negatively charged, on the damaged hair. Unlike conventional surface chemical analysis method, it is possible to quantitatively evaluate the interfacial conformation of deposited surface actives on hair, which identifies the target moieties for conditioning products on different types of hair. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Atomic force microscopy - AFM cantilever functionalization - Surface analysis - Surface energy - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION :Surface deposition analysis - Hair surface free energy - Surface morphology of hair fibres - Hair surface adhesion against methyl (-CH3) functional group - Hair surface adhesion against carboxylic acid (-COOH) functional group - Hair surface adhesion against hydroxyl (-OH) functional group - Hair surface adhesion against amine (-NH2) functional group - Table 1 : Silicone and cationic surfactant deposition in μg g-1 as a function of hair type (virgin hair, platinum-bleached hair) and treatment (chassis alone, chassis/TAS) in ambient air. Three hair fibre samples were collected from three different hair tresses, resulting in a total of nine measurements for each type - Table 2 : Surface energy data obtained from contact angles on virgin hair and platinum-bleached hair using hexadecane for the non-polar liquid and water for the polar liquid DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12834 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qUQR6DU_sOnv9W97138uGnXS8zH2hwWp/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39172 [article]

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