Study and optimization of oil-in-water emulsions formulated by low- and high-frequency ultrasounds / Louise Perrin in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 198-213 Titre : Study and optimization of oil-in-water emulsions formulated by low- and high-frequency ultrasounds Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Louise Perrin, Auteur ; Sylvie Desobry-Banon, Auteur ; Guillaume Gillet, Auteur ; Stephane Desobry, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 198-213 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Emulsions -- Stabilité Formulation (Génie chimique) Ondes décamétriques Plan d'expérience Ultrasons Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : A combined treatment using both low-frequency (20 kHz) and high-frequency ultrasounds (1.63 MHz) is a promising new process to stabilize emulsions with minimalist formulation. In order to optimize process parameters, a Doehlert experimental design was performed with oil-in-water emulsions, presently used for cosmetic products, composed of water, caprylic/capric triglycerides and oleic acid. - Methods : Effects of treatment time, oil content and oleic acid content were studied on emulsion properties (droplet size, polydispersity index, ζ-potential and yield of oil incorporation) and on emulsion stability after a 28-day storage (creaming index, Turbiscan stability index (TSI) and oil release). - Results : From experimental data, a model was established that allowed to study effects of each parameter and their interactions on emulsion formation and stability. Oleic acid content had a great impact on emulsion formation: It reduced droplet size, PDI and ζ-potential and increased yield of oil incorporation. However, a critical value could be highlighted, beyond which oleic acid effects reversed. Treatment time had an important beneficial effect on emulsion stability as it decreased creaming index, TSI and oil release after 28 days of storage. Oil content had a negative effect on emulsion formation and on emulsion stability. However, treatment time and oil content often had a beneficial synergistic effect. - Conclusion : The optimized conditions for emulsion processing were obtained through a desirability approach. They were experimentally validated. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Emulsification process - Size and ζ-potential measurements - Multiple light scattering for stability determination - Yield of oil incorporation and oil release after 28 days of storage determination - Experimental design - Model validation - Data and statistical analyses - Effect of experimental parameters on emulsion properties - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Effect of experimental parameters on emulsion properties - Effect of experimental parameters on emulsion stability - Optimization of emulsion properties and stability - Model validation - Table 1 : Experimental domain and levels of studied parameters in emulsification process - Table 2 : Doehlert experimental design to study emulsification process - Table 3 : Experimental data obtained for each experiment in Doehlert experimental design - Table 4 : Predictive model regression coefficients for responses defining emulsion properties - Table 5 : Prediction model regression coefficients for responses defining emulsion stability - Table 6 : Comparison between predicted and experimental data obtained for model validation DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12831 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TKyB0gTa88FJ000S2FbmQdRAy_0_fxU-/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39170 [article]

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