Fragrance in dermocosmetic emulsions : From microstructure to skin application / Charlotte Dallay in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 1-23 Titre : Fragrance in dermocosmetic emulsions : From microstructure to skin application Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Charlotte Dallay, Auteur ; Catherine Malhiac, Auteur ; Céline Picard, Auteur ; Géraldine Savary, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 1-23 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Cosmétiques -- Texture Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité Microstructures Parfums Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Fragrance is added to almost all dermocosmetic emulsions, as it has been found to be a key driver in consumer choice and contributes to the perception of product performance. Fragrance is a complex mixture of odorant chemicals at different concentrations. When incorporated into a formulation, the individual fragrance chemicals partition between the emulsion phases depending on their physicochemical properties, which can impact the structure, stability, texture and odour of the final product. On the other hand, it is well known in the food industry how the composition and structure of food emulsion matrices influence the release of aroma chemicals. Fragranced dermocosmetic emulsions have been studied to a lesser extent but it is interesting to apply findings from the food domain since emulsion structure, composition and aroma compounds share common features. This review aims to give an overview of the literature dealing with the interactions between fragrance and dermocosmetic emulsions. The effects of fragrance on emulsion microstructure, stability and texture are highlighted and discussed. The effects of composition and structure of emulsion on the release of fragrance molecules are also presented. Finally, the interactions between skin and fragranced emulsions are addressed. Note de contenu : - DERMOCOSMETIC EMULSIONS AND FRAGRANCE : Dermocosmetic emulsions : Fragrance - EFFECT OF FRAGRANCE ON EMULSION STRUCTURE, STABILITY AND TEXTURE : Effect of fragrance on emulsion structure - Effect of fragrance on emulsion stability - Effect of fragrance on emulsion texture - EFFECT OF EMULSION MATRIX ON FRAGRANCE PROPERTIES : Chemical stability of fragrance in cosmetic formulations - Effect of matrix composition on fragrance properties - Effect of matrix structure on fragrance properties - Application on skin - Table 1 : Typical formulation of an O/W cosmetic emulsion, inspired from Salk - Table 2 : Composition of a feminine fragrance with a floral scent, from Fernandez and Antoniotti - Table 3 : Chemical structures, solubility parameters, octanol–water and air–water partition coefficients (log P and log Kaw respectively) of some fragrance molecules, from Herma - Table 4 : Physicochemical parameters of studied fragrance molecules - Table 5 : Summary of the effects of emulsion matrix ingredients on fragrance release DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12896 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JoRikUQ9ZQ9MOy8YiKHEVfxdiwmjfI_m/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40575 [article]

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Understanding of the residual odour of fatty esters used as emollient in cosmetic products / Marie Jaricot in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022) . - p. 685-702 Titre : Understanding of the residual odour of fatty esters used as emollient in cosmetic products Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Marie Jaricot, Auteur ; Catherine Malhiac, Auteur ; Christina Chao, Auteur ; Fabien Merlaud, Auteur ; Michel Grisel, Auteur ; Géraldine Savary, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 685-702 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Chimie analytique Composés organiques volatils Emollients Esters gras Formulation (Génie chimique) Odeurs Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : Fatty esters are known for their versatility, but in addition to their performance as emollients, emulsifiers, solubilizers, or dispersing agents, they have to meet more and more criteria to be used in cosmetic products. Thus, their olfactory characteristics are expected to be as neutral as possible. However, despite a step of deodorization during the synthesis of fatty esters, a residual odour is currently still perceived at the end of the process. - METHODS : In this study, a specific analytical methodology combining sensory with chemical analyses was implemented to characterize the residual odour of two fatty esters and to determine its origin. Ethyl oleate and isononyl isononanoate were selected and underwent a sensory analysis to evaluate their odour intensity and odour profile. Volatile compounds released by these esters were assessed by GC–MS after solid-phase microextraction and among them, odouractive compounds were brought into light using gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry and olfactometry analyses. - RESULTS : On the isononyl isononanoate chromatogram, only peaks corresponding to the different isomeric ester forms were evidenced while around 70 volatile compounds were detected in the ethyl oleate headspace, including esters, aldehydes, hydrocarbons, and ketones. Isononyl alcohol used as raw material in the synthesis was proven to be responsible for isononyl isononanoate final odour. As for ethyl oleate, of the 23 odour-active compounds perceived, 14 have been identified; they are mainly esters and saturated as well as unsaturated aldehydes. - CONCLUSION : A novel measurement approach was presented to analyse trace odours of fatty esters and the results will be useful to control their deodorization by targeting appropriate strategies with the aim to either avoid the formation or remove the identified odorant compounds. This study may be further expanded by investigating the impact of deodorization on odour-active compounds for a complete understanding of their contribution to the fatty ester global odour. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Samples - Sensory analysis - Analysis of volatile compounds by SPME-GC–MS - Analysis of odorant compounds by GC–MS-O - Quantification of isononyl alcohol and 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoic acid traces in isononyl isononanoate samples by GC-FID - RESULTS : Ethyl oleate - Isononyl isononanoate - Table 1 : Relative amounts of volatile compounds detected in the headspace of ethyl oleate with assigned odorant perceptions - Table 2 : Volatile compounds detected in the headspace of raw materials of ethyl oleate: olein and stearin DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12811 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1izYOCyoP9kTB5dCdRCYgYBiiw_ErqHRM/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38392 [article]

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