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Hair surface interactions against different chemical functional groups as a function of environment and hair condition / Leslie Labarre in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023)
[article]
Titre : Hair surface interactions against different chemical functional groups as a function of environment and hair condition Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Leslie Labarre, Auteur ; Ophélie Squillace, Auteur ; Yu Liu, Auteur ; Peter J. Fryer, Auteur ; Preeti Kaur, Auteur ; Shane Whitaker, Auteur ; Jennifer M. Marsh, Auteur ; Zhenyu J. Zhang, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 224-235 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse spectrale
Cheveux -- analyse
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cosmétiques
Energie de surface
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Produits capillairesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The nature and magnitude of molecular interactions on hair surfaces underpin the design of formulated products, of which the application involves a competitive adsorption process between cationic surfactants, fatty alcohols and surface actives such as silicone. The knowledge of molecular interaction with hair surface will not only provide insight on the surface binding affinity but also offer an effective methodology in characterizing surface deposits.
- Methods : Untreated and chemically treated hair samples were treated with either conditioner chassis alone (gel network) or conditioner chassis plus silicone (chassis/TAS). Hair surface interactions against four different chemical functional groups, namely methyl (-CH3), acid (-COOH), amine (-NH2) and hydroxyl (-OH), were quantified in both ambient and aqueous environment using Chemical Force Microscopy, a method based on atomic force microscopy (AFM).
- Results : Surface adhesion on hair in ambient is dominated by capillary force that is determined by both the wettability of hair fibre (hydrophobic vs. hydrophilic), presence of any deposits and the chemical functionality of the AFM cantilever. Capillary force is diminished and replaced by electrostatic interaction when polar groups are present on both hair and AFM cantilever. A distinctively different force, hydrophobic interaction, plays a major role when virgin hair and hydrophobic functionalized AFM cantilever make contact in water.
- Conclusion : Results acquired by AFM cantilevers of different functional groups show that hydrophobic interaction is a key driver for deposition on virgin hair, whilst electrostatic interaction is the most important one for bleached hair. Interfacial conformation of chassis components upon deposition is determined by the hair surface properties. Our study highlights the possibility of a range of polar groups, not necessarily negatively charged, on the damaged hair. Unlike conventional surface chemical analysis method, it is possible to quantitatively evaluate the interfacial conformation of deposited surface actives on hair, which identifies the target moieties for conditioning products on different types of hair.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Atomic force microscopy - AFM cantilever functionalization - Surface analysis - Surface energy
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION :Surface deposition analysis - Hair surface free energy - Surface morphology of hair fibres - Hair surface adhesion against methyl (-CH3) functional group - Hair surface adhesion against carboxylic acid (-COOH) functional group - Hair surface adhesion against hydroxyl (-OH) functional group - Hair surface adhesion against amine (-NH2) functional group
- Table 1 : Silicone and cationic surfactant deposition in μg g-1 as a function of hair type (virgin hair, platinum-bleached hair) and treatment (chassis alone, chassis/TAS) in ambient air. Three hair fibre samples were collected from three different hair tresses, resulting in a total of nine measurements for each type
- Table 2 : Surface energy data obtained from contact angles on virgin hair and platinum-bleached hair using hexadecane for the non-polar liquid and water for the polar liquidDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12834 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qUQR6DU_sOnv9W97138uGnXS8zH2hwWp/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39172
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 224-235[article]The key phytochemistry of rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus) contributing to hair protection against UV / Jennifer M. Marsh in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 6 (12/2023)
[article]
Titre : The key phytochemistry of rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus) contributing to hair protection against UV Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jennifer M. Marsh, Auteur ; Shane Whitaker, Auteur ; Lijuan Li, Auteur ; Rui Fang, Auteur ; Monique S. J. Simmonds, Auteur ; Nikolaos Vagkidis, Auteur ; Victor Chechik, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 749-760 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Carnosique, Acide
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Chimie analytique
Cosmétiques
Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Protection contre le rayonnement ultraviolet
Romarin et constituants
Rosmarinique, AcideIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Extracts from rosemary (Salvia Rosmarinus) are analysed for their phytochemistry using LC–MS and the phytochemistry identified. The same extracts were tested for their efficacy to act as antioxidants by both hydrogen-atom transfer (ORAC) and single electron transfer (FRAP). A correlation analysis was performed to identify the key phytochemistry responsible for antioxidant efficacy. The top performing extracts were then tested in a peptide model and in hair with the presence of UV to measure ability to protect against UV-induced peptide and protein damage. Polyphenols (e.g. rosmarinic acid, glycosides of selgin) and abietane diterpenes (e.g. carnosic acid) in rosemary were identified as the principal compounds which enables the extracts to protect hair from UV. Note de contenu : - Hair source - Material information
- LC–MS sample preparation and analysis
- ORAC and FRAP measurements
- Peptide irradiation
- Substrate decomposition
- Hair treatment
- Hair exposure to artificial irradiation
- Biomarker analysis
- Table 1 : Compounds identified in one or more of the rosemary extracts
- Table 2 : ORAC and FRAP scores for rosemary extracts
- Table 3 : The Pearson correlation coefficients with p-values are reported for each pair of assay and compound. This table only shows correlations with p < 0.01 ; the full table of pairwise correlation analysis is provided as (Table S1)DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12883 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TJ0PQv-Q9pJbWJ_SoHVQmQmDEomO2QLA/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40260
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 6 (12/2023) . - p. 749-760[article]UV and visible light exposure to hair leads to widespread changes in the hair lipidome / Alastair B. Ross in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022)
[article]
Titre : UV and visible light exposure to hair leads to widespread changes in the hair lipidome Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Alastair B. Ross, Auteur ; Evelyne Maes, Auteur ; Erin J. Lee, Auteur ; Ines Homewood, Auteur ; Jennifer M. Marsh, Auteur ; Stephanie L. Davis, Auteur ; Robert J. Willicut, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 672-684 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Effets du rayonnement ultraviolet
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Chimie analytique
LipidomiqueLa lipidomique est l'étude à grande échelle des voies et des réseaux de lipides cellulaires dans les systèmes biologiques. Le mot "lipidome" est utilisé pour décrire le profil lipidique complet dans une cellule, un tissu, un organisme ou un écosystème et est un sous-ensemble du « métabolome » qui comprend également les trois autres grandes classes de molécules biologiques : les protéines/acides aminés, les sucres et les acides nucléiques. La lipidomique est un domaine de recherche relativement récent qui a été porté par les progrès rapides de technologies telles que la spectrométrie de masse (MS), la spectroscopie par résonance magnétique nucléaire (RMN), la spectroscopie de fluorescence, l'interférométrie à double polarisation et les méthodes informatiques, associées à la reconnaissance du rôle des lipides dans de nombreuses maladies métaboliques telles que l'obésité, l' athérosclérose, les accidents vasculaires cérébraux, l'hypertension et le diabète . Ce domaine en pleine expansion complète les énormes progrès de la génomique et de la protéomique, qui constituent la famille de la biologie des systèmes. (Wikipedia)
Spectrométrie de masseIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : Scalp hair is among the most exposed parts of the human body, yet the impact of visible and UV light on hair lipids, an important structural component of hair, is poorly researched. We have used lipidomics, a broad-based approach to measure lipids in samples, which has hitherto not been applied to UV-exposed hair in the published literature, and could allow for a wider understanding of how UV light impacts on specific hair lipids.
- METHODS : Mixed blonde Caucasian hair switches were divided into two groups of five, with half of the hair switches exposed to UV and visible light mimicking normal daytime exposure and half left unexposed. LC–MS lipidomics was used to profile the lipids in the hair samples.
- RESULTS : A total of 791 lipids and 32 lipid classes with tentative identifications were detected in the hair samples. Nineteen lipid classes and 397 lipids differed between UV-treated and non-treated hair. The main lipid classes that differed were vitamin A fatty acid esters, sterol esters, several ceramides, mono-, di- and triglycerides, phosphatidylethanolamines (all decreased in UV-exposed hair) and bismonoacylglycerolphosphates, acylcarnitines and acylglycines (all increased in UV-exposed hair). Most detected lipids were decreased in UV-exposed hair, supporting earlier work that has found that UV exposure causes oxidation of lipids which would result in a decrease in most lipid classes.
- CONCLUSION : Light exposure to hair has a widespread impact on the hair lipidome. This study also adds to the emerging literature on the hair lipidome, broadening the range of lipid classes reported in hair.Note de contenu : - METHODS : Hair samples - UV treatment - Sample preparation - LC–MS lipidomics analysis
- RESULTS : Method development - Hair lipidomics - Comparison between UV- and non-UV-treated hair
- Table : Lipid classes that differed between UV-exposed and non-UV-treated hairDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12810 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UzzGL7RbLXv5v-oZMbFhtz2_BP-FZ2ou/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38391
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022) . - p. 672-684[article]