From decoding the perception of tightness to a clinical proof of soothing effects derived from natural ingredients in a moisturizer / Sebastian Hendrickx-Rodriguez in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 5 (10/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 5 (10/2022) . - p. 486-499 Titre : From decoding the perception of tightness to a clinical proof of soothing effects derived from natural ingredients in a moisturizer Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Sebastian Hendrickx-Rodriguez, Auteur ; Sophie Connetable, Auteur ; Barbara Lynch, Auteur ; Joseph Pace, Auteur ; Ross Bennett-Kennett, Auteur ; Gustavo S. Luengo, Auteur ; Reinhold H. Dauskardt, Auteur ; Anne Potter, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 486-499 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Cosmétiques Couche cornée Dermo-cosmétologie Etanchéité Formulation (Génie chimique) Modèles numériques Peau -- Physiologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits hydratants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To decode the feeling of skin tightness after application of a cosmetic product and how to soothe this discomfort. To pursue this aim, we considered the ingredient's effect on stratum corneum (SC) biomechanics to differentiate between consumers prone to tightness from those that are not and correlate these effects with mechanoreceptor activation. - Methods : In vivo clinical trials were used to assess the tightness perception dichotomy between groups of Caucasian women; in vitro experiments were used to measure the mechanical stresses induced in the SC after cleanser and moisturizer application; and in silico simulations were used to illustrate how the measured mechanical stresses in the SC result in the development of strains at the depth of cutaneous mechanoreceptors, triggering tightness perceptual responses. - Results : Before any cream application, women prone to tightness tend to have a more rigid SC than their less sensitive counterparts, however cleanser application increases SC stiffness in all women. Surprisingly, no correlation was found between tightness perception and hydration measurements by the Corneometer or barrier function, as evaluated by transepidermal water loss. Self-declared tightness and dryness scores were strongly associated with a self-described sensitive skin. After application of the optimized moisturizing formula, Osmoskin® containing natural waxes with good filming properties, consumers report a strong decrease in tightness and dryness perception. These results match with laboratory experiments where the cleanser was shown to increase SC drying stresses by 34%, while subsequent application of Osmoskin® decreased stresses by 48%. Finite element modelling, using experimental results as input, elucidates the differences in perception between the two groups of women. It makes clear that Osmoskin® changes the mechanical status of the SC, producing strains in underlying epidermis that activates multiple cutaneous mechano-receptors at a level correlated with the self-perceived comfort. - Conclusion : Integration of the in vivo, in vitro and in silico approaches provides a novel framework for fully understanding how skin tightness sensations form and propagate, and how these sensations can be alleviated through the design of an optimized moisturizer. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : In vivo clinical study design - In vitro mechanical stress - In silico computational modelling of cosmetic treatment effects - Ingredients and formulation - RESULTS : Tightness decoding: In vivo instrumental, sensorial and clinical results - Impact of an optimized moisturizer to reduce tightness after a harsh cleanser treatment: In vivo instrumental, sensorial and clinical results - In vitro results: Drying stress profile of the stratum corneum - Modelling results: Impact of cleanser and Osmoskin® moisturizer on mechanoreceptors’ activation DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12797 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uie85R4gYHbZxj0Rs4cnzo7qit_aP8I5/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38148 [article]

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