Influence of wall slip, thixotropy and lubrication regime on the instrumental sensory evaluation of topical formulations / Febin Cyriac in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022) . - p. 271-288 Titre : Influence of wall slip, thixotropy and lubrication regime on the instrumental sensory evaluation of topical formulations Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Febin Cyriac, Auteur ; Tee Xin Yi, Auteur ; Pui Shan Chow, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 271-288 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Caractérisation Cosmétiques -- Analyse Emulsions -- Stabilité Formulation (Génie chimique) Rhéologie Statistiques Texture -- Analyse Thixotropie Toucher Viscoélasticité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Drawing parallels from rheotribology can be used to develop a robust instrumental protocol for non-subjective characterization, product development and design of topical dosage forms with desired sensory attributes. However, instrumental characterization of cosmetic products can be influenced by the measurement protocol, thixotropy, flow anomalies like shear banding or wall slip and nature of the film formed on the skin surface. In this study, we evaluated the influence of above parameters on the instrumental sensory evaluation of 12 topical formulations of different galenic forms. - Methods : Oscillatory strain sweep measurements (SAOS and LAOS) were performed to investigate the influence of frequency and wall slip on the material parameters. The textural attributes at different consumer touchpoints were evaluated by accounting time-dependent simulation of viscoelastic flow. Further, the influence of film thickness and sample drying on the tactile properties of the topical formulations were studied on a non-biological skin model using a sliding probe tribometer. - Results : The study shows that the flow properties of the semi-solid formulations depend on the timescale of the problem. A few formulations exhibited wall slip to varying degrees in the linear viscoelastic regime where the behaviour was found not to be characteristic of a particular topical dosage form. The material functions obtained from the Lissajous plots suggest that the non-linear flow behaviour of different galenic forms is least influenced by the boundary conditions imposed by the measurement geometry. The results were statistically analysed using principal component analysis where the attributes used for discriminating skin creams during pick up and rub out are found to be closely associated with non-linear rheology. The friction coefficient exhibited speed dependence where it formed different parametric group with rheological data depending on the lubrication regime. - Conclusion : The study highlights that correlations are possible amongst rheological, tribological and instrumental textural analysis data, which can act an impetus for the development of models to predict attributes that drive perception at different consumer touchpoints. However, the choice of instrumental settings, anomalies associated with rheological measurements and friction dependence on a number of parameters can influence the model prediction. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Methods - Tribological characterization - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Texture analysis - Rheological characterization - Friction measurements - Table 1 : Topical formulations employed in the study - Table 2 : Influence of measurement geometry and gap on oscillatory strain measurements. The result is the average obtained from two different measurements and the standard deviation is also shown DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12773 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/153UJUH9Ww_mnWp-W0LyLrvBPyHmMKB8X/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38130 [article]

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