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Skin permeability, a dismissed necessity for anti-wrinkle peptide performance / Seyedeh Maryam Mortazavi in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022)
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Titre : Skin permeability, a dismissed necessity for anti-wrinkle peptide performance Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Seyedeh Maryam Mortazavi, Auteur ; Hamid Reza Moghimi, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 232-248 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Antiâge:Antirides
Cosmétiques
Dermo-cosmétologie
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Peptides
PerméationIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background : The skin offers various benefits and potential for peptide delivery if its barrier performance can be reduced temporarily and reversibly. As peptides possess high molecular weight, hydrophilic nature (in most cases), and ionizable groups in the structure, their skin delivery is highly challenging. Apart from this, they are susceptible to the proteolytic enzymes in the skin. Anti-wrinkle peptides, like other peptides, suffer from insufficient skin permeability, while most of them must penetrate deep in the skin to present their efficacy. Although the cellular studies indicate the effectiveness of such peptides, without the ability to permeate the skin sufficiently, this efficacy is useless. Poor skin permeability of anti-wrinkle peptides has led to ongoing research for finding feasible and noninvasive enhancement methods that would be desirable for consumers of cosmetic products.
- Method : In this paper, the possibility of skin permeation of anti-wrinkle peptides as well as the chemical, physical, and encapsulation approaches that have been employed to date to increase permeability of these difficult molecules are thoroughly reviewed.
- Results : Most anti-wrinkle peptides are not appropriate candidates for skin permeation and the use of enhancement methods is essential to increase their permeability. To do so, only some permeability enhancement approaches have been applied so far, including chemical modification with hydrophobic moieties or cell penetrating peptides, metal complexation, chemical permeation enhancers, iontophoresis, microneedles, and encapsulation in nanocarriers. The results of studies published on the skin permeability of anti-wrinkle peptides carnosine, GHK, PKEK, GEKG, GQPR, and KTTKS indicate that the skin permeability of these peptides can be successfully increased.
- Conclusion : Although the skin permeability of most anti-wrinkle peptides is not high enough and most anti-wrinkle peptides might not reach their targets in the skin at right concentrations, their permeability can be increased to therapeutic concentrations using various enhancement approaches.Note de contenu : - CHEMICAL ENHANCEMENT METHODS USED FOR ANTI-WRINKLE PEPTIDES : Chemical modification - Chemical permeation enhancers - Metal complexation
- PHYSICAL ENHANCEMENT METHODS USED FOR ANTI-WRINKLE PEPTIDES : Microneedle - Iontophoresis
- ENCAPSULATION OF ANTI-WRINKLE PEPTIDES INTO LIPID-BASED NANOCARRIERS : Phospholipid-based vesicular nanocarriers - Liquid crystal nanoparticles - Microemulsions
- Table 1. The sequence, MW and calculated log P (clog P) of parent anti-wrinkle peptides
- Table 2. A summary of anti-wrinkle peptides that have been subjected to skin permeation enhancement methodsDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12770 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OPFFmRy4IsO51kcID7Z92478Qh90ZCZF/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37725
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022) . - p. 232-248[article]