Antioxidant extracts from Dicerocaryum senecioides as active ingredients in semi-permanents and hair conditioners / Hardlife Rambwawasvika in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021) . - p. 446-457 Titre : Antioxidant extracts from Dicerocaryum senecioides as active ingredients in semi-permanents and hair conditioners Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Hardlife Rambwawasvika, Auteur ; Pamhidzai Dzomba, Auteur ; Luke Gwatidzo, Auteur ; Haleden Chiririwa, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 446-457 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antioxydants Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Conditionneurs (cosmétique) Cosmétiques Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Formulation (Génie chimique) Produits capillaires Protection contre le rayonnement ultraviolet shampooings Stress oxydatif Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background : Different hair types respond differently to cosmetic treatments; hence, many options ought to be availed to the consumer. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the use of antioxidant extract from Dicerocaryum senecioides as active alternatives in hair semi-permanent waving and hair conditioning. - Methods : The antioxidant phytochemicals were first identified and isolated by thin-layer chromatography (TLC) and spraying with revealing agents. The antioxidant potency was determined by DPPH antiradical scavenging and ferric reducing power methods. The extract was incorporated in two different formulations to make the extract perm (bio-semi-permanent) and the antioxidant hair conditioner (AC). The formulations had their performance examined for hair curling and conditioning on Asian and African hair types. Hair damage was assessed by scanning the surface of treated samples on an attenuated total reflectance–Fourier transform infrared spectrometer (ATR-FTIR) and by quantifying lost protein on ultraviolet visible (UV-Vis) spectrophotometer. - Results : The extract antioxidant had an IC50 of 26.54 ± 0.34 µg/ml exhibiting greater antioxidant potency compared to the controls quercetin (38.84 ± 0.12 µg/ml) and ascorbic acid (35.22 ± 0.07 µg/ml). The extract perm had a lower curling ability indicated by a perm set of 85.10 ± 3.92% and 81.35 ± 2.35% for Asian and African hairs, respectively, while commercial product, ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) had 96.05 ± 1.70% and 93.60 ± 2.21% for the same. The curling of hair with extract perm resulted in less oxidative damage with oxidative peak areas of 3.37 ± 0.09 and 3.71 ± 0.03 as well as lower protein losses of 4.72 ± 0.71 µg/mg and 5.62 ± 0.70 µg/mg on Asian and African hair samples, respectively. The application of AC reduced the oxidative damage peak areas of ATG and extract perm treated Asian hair samples by 1.15 and 0.48 units, respectively. AC was also effective in reducing damage caused by UV radiation on ATG-treated samples by 1.06 units (African hair) and 1.09 units on Asian hair. - Conclusion : The results show antioxidant extracts from Dicerocryum senecioides as a promising and safer alternative for hair conditioning and semi-permanent curling. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Collection and preparation of plant material - Isolation and identification of the antioxidants - Antioxidant assay for extracts - Formulation of a bio-semi-permanent and antioxidant conditioner - Analysis of hair damage after treatment - Statistical analysis of data - RESULTS : Detection and assaying for antioxidant with DPPH - Antioxidant assaying using ferric reducing power method - Ring test for hair curling performance - Determination of oxidative damage by ATR-FTIR - Assay for hydrolysable amino acids on treated hair samples - Protection of hair against UV radiation by antioxidant conditioner (AC) - Table 1 : Important bands for cystine derivatives and their characteristic vibrational wavenumbers - Table 2 : Treatments given to hair samples - Table 3 : Oxidative damage peak area after chemical treatment - Table 4 : Amount of protein lost by hair in different treatments - Table 5 : Hair oxidative damage expressed as cysteic acid peak area after both chemical treatment and irradiation with UV light DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12719 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1krMOCFzvySkX0kXPgSOVnh7zB6whzAT9/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36678 [article]

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