Formulation of topical acidic products and acidification of the skin – Contribution of glycolic acid / Milica Lukic in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021) . - p. 419-431 Titre : Formulation of topical acidic products and acidification of the skin – Contribution of glycolic acid Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Milica Lukic, Auteur ; Mila Filipovic, Auteur ; Nevena Pajic, Auteur ; Dominique Lunter, Auteur ; Dragana Bozic, Auteur ; Snezana Savic, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 419-431 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acide glycolique L'acide glycolique (ou acide hydroxyacétique) est le plus petit des acides α-hydroxylés (AHA). L'acide glycolique est obtenu à partir d'extrait de canne à sucre, de betterave ou de raisin. Grâce à son excellente capacité à pénétrer la peau, l'acide glycolique est très utilisé dans les produits de soins pour la peau, le plus souvent dans les peelings. Toxicité : L'acide glycolique peut être très irritant selon les niveaux de pH5. Il peut être irritant pour la peau, les yeux ou les voies respiratoires6. Comme l'éthylène glycol, il est métabolisé à l'acide oxalique, ce qui peut le rendre dangereux s'il est ingéré. Alkyl polyglycosides Analyse thermique Antimicrobiens Dermo-cosmétologie Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Microscopie Peau -- Soins et hygiène pH -- Mesure Rhéologie Statistique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The acidic skin pH is one of the regulating factors of skin barrier homeostasis. Topical products as extrinsic factors which influence skin pH could be used for acidification of the skin and consequent beneficial effect. To formulate stabile and safe topical emulsion product with low pH is on-going challenge and areas interesting to explore are related to the effect of acidic products on the skin pH together with development of protocols for these studies. Aim of our work was to investigate formulations of acidic topical products with glycolic acid (GA) stabilized with long chain alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier, in regard to the specific colloidal structure of the vehicle, together with effect of products with different concentration of acidic active on skin pH. - Methods : Investigated formulations were basic vehicle and two creams with glycolic acid (concentration 2 and 10 wt%). Microstructure was investigated by polarization microscopy, Raman spectral imaging, thermal analysis and rheological measurements. Effects on the skin were assessed by measurement of biophysical skin parameters in vivo studies (5-hour, 24-hour and 7-days). In vitro screening of antimicrobial activity was performed against bacteria Staphylococcus epidermidis. - Results : Polarization micrographs and Raman images have shown that GA does not disturb the specific colloidal structure. Together with rheological and thermal analysis obtained results have shown that GA in higher concentrations contributes to vehicles’ lamellar structure. In 5-hour study the mean values of skin pH ranged from 3.98-4.25 and 3.89-4.10 after application of products with smaller and higher GA concentration. GA samples lowered skin surface pH to 5 and less in 24-hour and 7-day study, with stronger effect of sample with more GA. Sample with 10% of GA had significant inhibitory effect on growth of S. epidermidis in 1:1 concentration. - Conclusions : Investigated APG emulsifier could be used as a stabilizer for acidic topical products with GA which are characterized by satisfactory safety profile. Topical products induce acidification of the skin after short- and long-term application without barrier impairment or sign of irritation. Acidification of the skin depends on presence of ingredients which are proton donors and their concentrations. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Preparation of samples - pH measurement - Polarization microscopy - Confocal Raman microspectroscopy - Thermal analysis - Rheological measurements - In vivo effect on pH of the skin - Antimicrobial activity - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Polarization microscopy - Raman spectral imaging - Thermal analysis - Rheological measurements - Effects on skin pH - Antimicrobial activity - Table 1 : Composition of investigated samples - Table 2 : Percentage water loss* values over the specified temperature ranges for investigated creams ; results are presented as mean ± standard deviation - Table 3 : Antimicrobial activity of investigated samples on growth of Staphylococcus epidermidis DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12707 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ruzRNTSy53G8OxUF8Gvow7OmBWPBcs0h/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36676 [article]

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