Mild retinol alternative for global compliance / Marcie Natale in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 24, N° 4 (04/2023)  

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 24, N° 4 (04/2023) . - p. 31-34 Titre : Mild retinol alternative for global compliance Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Marcie Natale, Auteur ; Stéphanie Clendennen, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 31-34 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides Dermo-cosmétologie Etudes cliniques Formulation (Génie chimique) Linoléate de rétinyle Peau -- Soins et hygiène Rétinoïdes Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Retinoids are the gold standard for reducing signs of agins when applied topicallly to the skin. Familiar examples of retinoids are retinoic acid, retinol, and retinol esters like retinyl palmitate. Retinol is highly effective, but it can be unstable in formulation and irritating to skin at cosmetically useful levels. In one review of published studies, retinol was associated with skin redness, dryness and flaking. Derivatizing retinol can reduce its potential for irritation and improve its stability. In particular, fatty acid derivatives of retinol can deliver high efficacy without the irritation. Retinyl linoleate is a compound composed of retinol and high-purity linoleic acid from safflower oil joined by an ester bond. Retinyl biloleate is a biobased, formulation-stable, easy-to-handle, nonirritating antiaging ingredient. Retinhl linoleate is historically known to be non-irritating and stable in formulation. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL METHODS : Materials - Formulations for in vitro studies - In vitro gene expression - In vitro permeation and hydrolysis in a skin model - Clinical study - Expression of retinoid marker genes - Retinol binding proteins - Retinoic acid binding proteins - Permeation and hydrolysis of retinyl esters in a skin model - Clinical trial results fonfirm the efficacy of retinyl linoleate En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CsdXQfGin-JCWR-4TLda_dXm_oo1ADhf/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39406 [article]

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Retinyl esters are not alike an in vitro study / Caroline Smal in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 7 (07/2021)  

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 22, N° 7 (07/2021) . - p. 51-53 Titre : Retinyl esters are not alike an in vitro study Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Caroline Smal, Auteur ; Roland Hubaux, Auteur ; Michel Salmon, Auteur ; Stéphanie Clendennen, Auteur ; Robin Matton, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 51-53 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture Dermo-cosmétologie Esters de rétinyle Fibroblastes Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Retinol is well-established in cosmetics as an anti-ageing ingredient. It is known to increase cell proliferation and production of extracellular matrix elements such as hyaluronic acid. Anti-ageing products containing retinol may therefore decrease the appearance of wrinkles and improve skin texture. Unfortunately, retinol also suffers from chemical instability and the potential to irritate skin. To circumvent these issues, several derivatives of retinol have been developed with improved stability while still retaining the anti-ageing effects. The derivatives contain unsaturated fatty acids, either purified linoleic acid or a blend derived from sunflower seed oil. A comparative in vitro study was conducted to compare the effect of different test materials on human dermal fibroblast proliferation and production of hyaluronic acid. The test materials included retinol and three different esters of retinol (Retinyl sunflowerseedate, Retinyl linoleate, and Retinyl palmitate). Note de contenu : - Fig. 1 : Representative images of fibroblast cultures after 72h of treatment under control conditions and with test retinoids - Fig. 2 : Cell proliferation by BrDU incorporation assay - Fig. 3 : Quantification of HA release from fibroblasts treated with controls and test retinoids En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nHem82OjcQ0TFjFgWu6Etpedfk9gwo_3/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36300 [article]

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