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Sun protection : formulation as easy as winking / Lars Jung in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 5 (05/2021)
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Titre : Sun protection : formulation as easy as winking Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Lars Jung, Auteur ; Ev Suess, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 29-31 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Epaississants
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits antisolairesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The formulation of sun protection products can become a difficult job for the formulator. Selecting the right UV filter combination to achieve broad spectrum protection, adjusting the use levels of each UV filter to reach the desired SPF (sun protection factor) while complying with all regulatory demands and providing sufficient stability to the formulation are only a few of the challenges.
And these are just the requirements for providing a sun care product, doing what it should do - protect the skin from UV radiation. The skin-feel and the textures for different application types have not yet been taken into consideration.
A sun care product with an SPF 30, matching all requirements and providing a comfortable skin-feel can easily contain 20 to 25 different ingredients.
Neo Heliopan® Flat1 (INCI : Homosalate, Octocrylene, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Salicylate) offers a combination of UVA and UVB filters providing a broad spectrum protection from ultraviolet radiation. The blend uniformly absorbs solar radiation ranging from 300 to 360nm and therefore provides optimal protection against harmful UVA and UVB rays. The simple adjustment of the use level enables the manufacture of sunscreen products, such as lotions, creams, sprays and oils with sun protection factors from 6 to 50+ without the need to add additional UV filters.
The liquid blend is composed in a way that crystalline UV filters stay solubilised down to -20°C, which makes it also suitable for cold/ cold processes which save time and energy in the manufacturing process and avoids the handling of powdered UV filters.
In combination with SymEffectTM Varytex2 (INCI: Propanediol Dicaprylate/Caprate, Triisononanoin, Diisopropyl Adipate, Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride, Stearyl Heptanoate, Glyceryl Oleate Citrate, Cetearyl Nonanoate, Stearyl Caprylate), a well-balanced selection of oil components and an effective O/W emulsifier, the creation of sun care products with different textures, from sprays to creams becomes even easierNote de contenu : - Formulating a strategy
- Sensorial
- Fig. 1 : UV Absorbance Curve NeoHeliopan® Flat in 10 ml/l Isopropanol
- Fig. 2 : Absorbance Curve NeoHeliopan® flat
- Fig. 3 : Classic thickener combination : Carbomer, xanthan gum natural thickener combination : Scleroglucan, Xanthan gum, microcrystalline cellulose
- Table 1 : Different use levels of NeoHeliopan® flat in a O/W sunscreen formula - Expected SPF VS. in vitro SPF including the data about UVA PF after irradiation and critical wavelength
- Formulation 1 : Easy as winking ! Body sun protection lotion, SPF 50+, UVA/UVB balancedEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/17WJhUbbrrxjSsREbJbtjcnjAgsG7z8MN/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35810
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