Opacity, viscosity, structure or body / Belén M. Lemieux in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 3 (03/2022)  

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 23, N° 3 (03/2022) . - p. 45-48 Titre : Opacity, viscosity, structure or body Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Belén M. Lemieux, Auteur ; Joëlle Lamontagne, Auteur ; Alexandra McMahon, Auteur ; Steven L. Puleo, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 45-48 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cires Esters Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques Opacité (optique) Viscosité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Wax esters, like most lipidic materials, have a long history of use in personal care and cosmetics. For example, in 2nd century BCE China, it was common practice to apply naturally occurring animal fats and vegetable oils onto human skin to soothe or heal wounds. Although there was no formal knowledge about the composition of these natural fats, early users reasoned they must be similar to the composition of human skin, thus making them key ingredients in early ointments, liniments and salves. Aside from being efficient, these early formulations were relatively resistant to microbiological contamination and stable over time. Their shortcomings, like oxidation and rancidity, were eventually overcome with the introduction of antioxidants and replacement with synthetic ingredients. Today's chemists are evolving with the global demand for functional, sustainable and renewable plant derived materials. In this paper, we study three alkyl esters that meet these current needs. Note de contenu : - Functionality & sustainability - Definitions & properties - Formulations emulsions - Table 1 : Properties of kester waxes - Table 2 : Formulation of base 1 - Table 3 : Formulation of base 2 - Table 4 : Formulation of base 3 - Table 5 : Sensory & performance evaluation of selected base 1 formulas - Table 6 : Sensory & performance evaluation of selected base 2 formulas - Table 7 : Sensory & performance evaluation of selected base 3 formulas - Table 8 : Properties of koster keunen waxes En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XF5YBM3Sq9IIf6e2VTzm4mYrixUpUjFu/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37250 [article]

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Sunflower wax : a powerful natural structurant / Belén M. Lemieux in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 3 (03/2021)  

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 22, N° 3 (03/2021) . - p. 45-48 Titre : Sunflower wax : a powerful natural structurant Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Belén M. Lemieux, Auteur ; Joëlle Lamontagne, Auteur ; Rushane E. Reid, Auteur ; Steven L. Puleo, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 45-48 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cires végétales Fond de teint Fusion, Points de Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie Ingrédients cosmétiques Pénétration (physique) Tournesol et constituants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Cosmetic formulations have relied on the use of structurants since they first came into existence. The purpose of a cosmetic structurant is to impart a certain level of immobility to an otherwise liquid formula in order to properly manipulate it, as well as to impart homogeneity to the formulation, specifically when there are particles that need to be suspended. In this article we will explore sunflower wax (INCI: Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax) as one of the most well-rounded structuring agents available today. Beyond an attractive label claim, studies show that sunflower wax is highly compatible and extremely efficient in all mediums tested, outperforming other standard structurants, including candelilla wax, beeswax, polyethylene, and ozokerite. Note de contenu : - History and traditional formulation - A MODERN FOCUS : SUNFLOWER WAX : Source and chemical composition - Organogels and crystallinity - ANHYDROUS FORMULAS WITH SUNFLOWER WAS : Sunflower gel chart : the foundation - Comparison to other structurants - REPLACING PETROCHEMICALS WITH SUNFLOWER WAX : Experimental design - Interpretation of the results - Fig. 1 : Sunflower wax - gel strength in different oil mediums - Fig. 2 : Structurant comparison A - Gel strength in CCT - Fig. 3 : Structurant compairon B - Gel strength in octyl palmitate - Fig. 4 : Correlation - melt points - Fig. 5 : Correlation - penetrations - Table 1 : Sunflower wax characteristics - Table 2 : Sensory likeness data for all formulas - Table 3 : Melting point data for all formulas - Table 4 : Penetration/hardness data for all formulas En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dDNihklAh9z8SmULnwn8csCAHZyk4CGB/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35506 [article]

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