Design of sustainable lip gloss formulation with biosurfactants and silica particles / Constantina Eleni Drakontis in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020) . - p. 573-580 Titre : Design of sustainable lip gloss formulation with biosurfactants and silica particles Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Constantina Eleni Drakontis, Auteur ; Samiul Amin, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 573-580 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biosurfactants Brillant à lèvres Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Maquillage Particules (matières) Rhamnolipides Silice La silice est la forme naturelle du dioxyde de silicium (SiO2) qui entre dans la composition de nombreux minéraux. La silice existe à l'état libre sous différentes formes cristallines ou amorphes et à l'état combiné dans les silicates, les groupes SiO2 étant alors liés à d'autres atomes (Al : Aluminium, Fe : Fer, Mg : Magnésium, Ca : Calcium, Na : Sodium, K : Potassium...). Les silicates sont les constituants principaux du manteau et de l'écorce terrestre. La silice libre est également très abondante dans la nature, sous forme de quartz, de calcédoine et de terre de diatomée. La silice représente 60,6 % de la masse de la croûte terrestre continentale. Sophorolipides Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The main objective of this study was to design a sustainable lip gloss from water-in-oil emulsions by understanding the rheology of combining biosurfactants (rhamnolipids and sophorolipids) with silica particles (Aerosil powders). The different parameters consisted of the silica particle diameter size, the concentration of the particles within the formulation, alongside the different types of biosurfactant and oils used. The experimental results could provide information on the formulation design of cosmetic emulsions such as lip products and foundations. - Methods : One parameter was varied each time, while the rest were kept constant in order to determine their effect on the viscosity profile of the formulations. A traditional mechanical rheometer was used in order to measure the bulk viscosity profiles of the different formulations, over a wide range of shear stress applied. - Results : The larger silica particle diameter size indicated an increase in the viscosity of the formulations, as yield stress was also generated for the specific diameter of 14 nm. It was also found that as the particle concentration increased, the viscosity increased as well. Rhamnolipids and sophorolipids indicated very similar behaviour, meaning that the biosurfactant acts as an emulsifier and does not impact the system’s rheological behaviour. The replacement of silicone oil with other natural oils was only successful with canola, and castor oil, since jojoba, squalene and mineral oil were not stabilized. - Conclusion : The lip gloss was designed by water-in-oil emulsions which were stabilized by biosurfactants and the rheology of the oil phase was enhanced by silica particles. The formulation rheology gave a stable emulsion, the shear-thinning effect ensured easy applicability, whereas the viscosity and elasticity provided nice hold on the lips. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Effect of silica particle diameter - Effect of silica particle concentration - Effect of biosurfactant - Effect of oil and pigments - Technique - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Stability - Effect of silica particle diameter - Effect of silica particle concentration - Effect of biosurfactant - Effect of oil - Performance of the lip gloss - Table 1 : Rhamnolipid formulations prepared for all three silica particles (Aerosil R 202, Aerosil R 812 and Aerosil R 812S) - Table 2 : Table 2 Sophorolipid formulations prepared for all three silica particles (Aerosil R 202, Aerosil R 812 and Aerosil R 812S) DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12642 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vXu5cbVn34tRhjWqWOmJAcQb_kn8gPKB/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35423 [article]

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