A natural-based 360° approach for optimized sunscreen formulations / Martina Issleib in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 7/8 (07-08/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 7/8 (07-08/2020) . - p. 13-19 Titre : A natural-based 360° approach for optimized sunscreen formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Martina Issleib, Auteur ; Lars Jung, Auteur ; Martina König, Auteur ; Jürgen Claus, Auteur ; William Jonhcock, Auteur ; Marek Busch, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 13-19 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Emulsions -- Stabilité Formulation (Génie chimique) Matières premières Produits antisolaires Résistance à l'humidité:Résistance à l'eau Ressources renouvelables Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Consumers expect from their sunscreen products not only highly effective protection from UV rays, optimal water resistance, formulation stability and at the same time a light and dry skin feel. The rising environmental awareness also leads to a higher demand for responsibly sourced and sustainable ingredients. The formulator's dilemma is to find sustainably sourced alternatives to ingredients that are under scrutiny such as SPF-boosters, film formers and other typically synthetic or silicone-derived raw materials used in sunscreens – without compromise in the formulation performance, stability and skin feel. Here we describe a multifunctional blend that is unique in its natural and holistic approach to the multiple challenges of formulating modern sunscreen products. It can effectively enhance the efficiency of the used UV-filters, improve the water resistance and formulation stability, and has a beneficial impact on the skin feel of the emulsions. Based on responsibly sourced raw materials, it is the next step towards a higher degree of sustainability and naturalness in sun protection cosmetics. Note de contenu : - Fig. 1 : 360° approach - SynEffect TM sun - Fig. 2 : In vivo SPF vs. Placebo in different sunscreen formulations - Fig. 3 : Microscope pictures of sunscreen formulations without and with SymEffect TM sun - Fig. 4 : Results of comparative viscosity measurement of sunscreen emulsions with increasing amount of SymEffect TM sun - Fig. 5 : In vivo-measurement of the water resistance - Fig. 6 : Emulsions with and without SymEffect TM sun after 30 min drying at RT - Fig. 7 : SPF 30 sun care lotion with 2% SymEffect TM sun vs. 2% stearyl dimethicone - Table 1 : Sunscreen formulations used for in vivo SPF determination - Table 2 : Sunscreen formulation using increasing amounts of SymEffect TM sun En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1A8RJCEX5nkJ_usl2KtVdt-w8McaJBafd/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34615 [article]

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SPF boosting ? Naturally, natural ! / Marek Busch in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 149, N° 6 (06/2023)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 149, N° 6 (06/2023) . - p. 12-16 Titre : SPF boosting ? Naturally, natural ! Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Marek Busch, Auteur ; Martina Issleib, Auteur ; Lars Jung, Auteur ; Claudia Teubner, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 12-16 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Absorbeurs de rayonnement ultraviolet Dermo-cosmétologie Etude in vitro Etude in vivo Facteur de protection solaire Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Produits chimiques -- Biodégradation Ressources renouvelables Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Consumer wishes change based on a growing consciousness for the environment and people. Also, regulations change and evolve due to current and updated scientific findings. This also affects the range of commonly used UV filters. As an industry, we develop products that address these trends and meet those requirements. Consequently, we must find innovative ways to develop and optimize sunscreen products where SPF boosters play an important role. SPF boosters shall increase the value of SPF and preferably UVA-PF and allow to reach higher sun protection factors with the same amount of UV filters. These products are not considered as UV filters because they, alone, do not significantly contribute to SPF or UVA. But they can help sunscreen formulators to answer the demands for high SPF products while considering a limited choice of UV filters. In the pursuit of developing a SPF booster based on renewable and biodegradable raw materials we have evaluated potential candidates for their efficacy. These were incorporated in sunscreen preparations and compared to a placebo formulation without SPF booster, starting with in-vitro measurements of the UV absorbance based on ISO 24443:2021, followed by evaluation of the impact of the SPF booster concentration. The most promising candidates were further tested on their performance in water-in-oil as well as oil-in-water emulsion systems and with mineral and organic UV filters according to the different in-vivo methods ISO 24444:2019, FDA monograph standard 21CFR201.327 and hybrid diffuse reflectance spectroscopy. To extend the set of data the influence of UVA and UVB absorbance was examined as well as the impact on the sensorial profile when adding a SPF booster to an already existing formulation. Showing outstanding efficacy in in-vitro and in-vivo evaluations of the sunscreen protective properties the wax blend SymEffectâ„¢ UV performs in different emulsion systems and works with a variety of UV filter combinations to boost the SPF. Additionally, the balance between UVA and UVB absorbance of the initial sunscreen formulations is kept on the same level when including the wax blend, and the final sensory profile is comparable to the placebo formulations. Note de contenu : - Materials and methods - In-vitro SPF testing - In-vivo SPF testing - Sensory test - Results : In-vitro SPF - In-vivo SPF - Impact on the UVA balance En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xFLBHdSUPP4mxWsnvpz6RsPONoRmnPIP/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39585 [article]

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Sun protection : formulation as easy as winking / Lars Jung in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 5 (05/2021)  

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 22, N° 5 (05/2021) . - p. 29-31 Titre : Sun protection : formulation as easy as winking Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Lars Jung, Auteur ; Ev Suess, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 29-31 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Epaississants Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The formulation of sun protection products can become a difficult job for the formulator. Selecting the right UV filter combination to achieve broad spectrum protection, adjusting the use levels of each UV filter to reach the desired SPF (sun protection factor) while complying with all regulatory demands and providing sufficient stability to the formulation are only a few of the challenges. And these are just the requirements for providing a sun care product, doing what it should do - protect the skin from UV radiation. The skin-feel and the textures for different application types have not yet been taken into consideration. A sun care product with an SPF 30, matching all requirements and providing a comfortable skin-feel can easily contain 20 to 25 different ingredients. Neo Heliopan® Flat1 (INCI : Homosalate, Octocrylene, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Salicylate) offers a combination of UVA and UVB filters providing a broad spectrum protection from ultraviolet radiation. The blend uniformly absorbs solar radiation ranging from 300 to 360nm and therefore provides optimal protection against harmful UVA and UVB rays. The simple adjustment of the use level enables the manufacture of sunscreen products, such as lotions, creams, sprays and oils with sun protection factors from 6 to 50+ without the need to add additional UV filters. The liquid blend is composed in a way that crystalline UV filters stay solubilised down to -20°C, which makes it also suitable for cold/ cold processes which save time and energy in the manufacturing process and avoids the handling of powdered UV filters. In combination with SymEffectTM Varytex2 (INCI: Propanediol Dicaprylate/Caprate, Triisononanoin, Diisopropyl Adipate, Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride, Stearyl Heptanoate, Glyceryl Oleate Citrate, Cetearyl Nonanoate, Stearyl Caprylate), a well-balanced selection of oil components and an effective O/W emulsifier, the creation of sun care products with different textures, from sprays to creams becomes even easier Note de contenu : - Formulating a strategy - Sensorial - Fig. 1 : UV Absorbance Curve NeoHeliopan® Flat in 10 ml/l Isopropanol - Fig. 2 : Absorbance Curve NeoHeliopan® flat - Fig. 3 : Classic thickener combination : Carbomer, xanthan gum natural thickener combination : Scleroglucan, Xanthan gum, microcrystalline cellulose - Table 1 : Different use levels of NeoHeliopan® flat in a O/W sunscreen formula - Expected SPF VS. in vitro SPF including the data about UVA PF after irradiation and critical wavelength - Formulation 1 : Easy as winking ! Body sun protection lotion, SPF 50+, UVA/UVB balanced En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/17WJhUbbrrxjSsREbJbtjcnjAgsG7z8MN/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35810 [article]

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