Evaluation of alkenones, a renewably sourced, plant-derived wax as a structuring agent for lipsticks / An Huynh in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 146-155 Titre : Evaluation of alkenones, a renewably sourced, plant-derived wax as a structuring agent for lipsticks Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : An Huynh, Auteur ; Briana Maktabi, Auteur ; Christopher M. Reddy, Auteur ; Gregory W. O'Neil, Auteur ; Mark Chandler, Auteur ; Gabriella Baki, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 146-155 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alcénones Les alcénones (ou alkénones) sont des composés organiques (cétones) très résistants (et fossilisables) produits depuis des millions d'années par des algues phytoplanctoniques de la classe des Prymnesiophyceae. Leur rôle biologique exact dans la cellule reste débattu. Analyse thermique Cires -- Analyse Cosmétiques Couleur Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité Ingrédients cosmétiques Maquillage Rouges à lèvres Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : Waxes are used as structuring agents in lipsticks. There are a variety of waxes combined in a single lipstick to provide good stability, pleasant texture and good pay-off. Due to a significant growth for natural, green and sustainable products, there is a constant search for alternatives to animal-derived and petroleum-derived ingredients. In this study, a green, non-animalderived wax, namely long-chain ketones (referred to as alkenones), sourced from marine microalgae was formulated into lipsticks and evaluated as a structuring agent. - METHODS : Alkenones were used as a substitute for microcrystalline wax, ozokerite and candelilla wax, typical structuring agents. In total, 384 lipsticks were formulated: L1 (control, no alkenones), L2 (alkenones as a substitute for ozokerite), L3 (alkenones as a substitute for microcrystalline wax) and L4 (alkenones as a substitute for candelilla wax). Products were tested for hardness (bending force), stiffness, firmness (needle penetration), pay-off (using a texture analyser and a consumer panel), friction, melting point and stability for 12 weeks at 25 and 45°C. - RESULTS : Alkenones influenced each characteristic evaluated. In general, lipsticks with alkenones (L2-L4) became softer and easier to bend compared to the control (L1). In terms of firmness, lipsticks were similar to the control, except for L4, which was significantly (P < 0.05) firmer. The effect on pay-off was not consistent. L2 and L3 had higher pay-off to skin and fabric than L1. In addition, L4 had the lowest amount transferred, but it still had the highest colour intensity on skin. Alkenones influenced friction (glide) positively; the average friction decreased for L2-L4. The lowest friction (i.e. best glide) was shown in L4. Melting point of the lipsticks was lower when alkenones were present. Overall, L4, containing 7% of 4 alkenones in combination with microcrystalline wax, ozokerite and carnauba wax, was found to have the most desirable attributes, including ease of bending, high level of firmness, low pay-off in terms of amount, high colour intensity on skin and low friction (i.e. better glide). Consumers preferred L4 the most overall. - CONCLUSION : Results of this study indicate that alkenones offer a sustainable, non-animal and non-petroleum-derived choice as a structuring agent for lipsticks. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS - CONSUMER STUDY : Differential scanning analysis - Stability - RESULTS : Hardness and stiffness - Needle penetration test - Pay-off - Consumer study - DSC - Stability study DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12597 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lTh2efTQC9-1vrsOMJCh37twlXNzmSTp/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34505 [article]

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