Evaluation of alkenones, a renewably sourced, plant-derived wax as a structuring agent for lipsticks / An Huynh in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 146-155 Titre : Evaluation of alkenones, a renewably sourced, plant-derived wax as a structuring agent for lipsticks Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : An Huynh, Auteur ; Briana Maktabi, Auteur ; Christopher M. Reddy, Auteur ; Gregory W. O'Neil, Auteur ; Mark Chandler, Auteur ; Gabriella Baki, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 146-155 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alcénones Les alcénones (ou alkénones) sont des composés organiques (cétones) très résistants (et fossilisables) produits depuis des millions d'années par des algues phytoplanctoniques de la classe des Prymnesiophyceae. Leur rôle biologique exact dans la cellule reste débattu. Analyse thermique Cires -- Analyse Cosmétiques Couleur Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité Ingrédients cosmétiques Maquillage Rouges à lèvres Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : Waxes are used as structuring agents in lipsticks. There are a variety of waxes combined in a single lipstick to provide good stability, pleasant texture and good pay-off. Due to a significant growth for natural, green and sustainable products, there is a constant search for alternatives to animal-derived and petroleum-derived ingredients. In this study, a green, non-animalderived wax, namely long-chain ketones (referred to as alkenones), sourced from marine microalgae was formulated into lipsticks and evaluated as a structuring agent. - METHODS : Alkenones were used as a substitute for microcrystalline wax, ozokerite and candelilla wax, typical structuring agents. In total, 384 lipsticks were formulated: L1 (control, no alkenones), L2 (alkenones as a substitute for ozokerite), L3 (alkenones as a substitute for microcrystalline wax) and L4 (alkenones as a substitute for candelilla wax). Products were tested for hardness (bending force), stiffness, firmness (needle penetration), pay-off (using a texture analyser and a consumer panel), friction, melting point and stability for 12 weeks at 25 and 45°C. - RESULTS : Alkenones influenced each characteristic evaluated. In general, lipsticks with alkenones (L2-L4) became softer and easier to bend compared to the control (L1). In terms of firmness, lipsticks were similar to the control, except for L4, which was significantly (P < 0.05) firmer. The effect on pay-off was not consistent. L2 and L3 had higher pay-off to skin and fabric than L1. In addition, L4 had the lowest amount transferred, but it still had the highest colour intensity on skin. Alkenones influenced friction (glide) positively; the average friction decreased for L2-L4. The lowest friction (i.e. best glide) was shown in L4. Melting point of the lipsticks was lower when alkenones were present. Overall, L4, containing 7% of 4 alkenones in combination with microcrystalline wax, ozokerite and carnauba wax, was found to have the most desirable attributes, including ease of bending, high level of firmness, low pay-off in terms of amount, high colour intensity on skin and low friction (i.e. better glide). Consumers preferred L4 the most overall. - CONCLUSION : Results of this study indicate that alkenones offer a sustainable, non-animal and non-petroleum-derived choice as a structuring agent for lipsticks. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS - CONSUMER STUDY : Differential scanning analysis - Stability - RESULTS : Hardness and stiffness - Needle penetration test - Pay-off - Consumer study - DSC - Stability study DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12597 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lTh2efTQC9-1vrsOMJCh37twlXNzmSTp/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34505 [article]

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Measurements meet perceptions : rheology-texture-sensory relations when using green, bio-derived emollients in cosmetic emulsions / An Huynh in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021) . - p. 11-19 Titre : Measurements meet perceptions : rheology-texture-sensory relations when using green, bio-derived emollients in cosmetic emulsions Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : An Huynh, Auteur ; A.G. Garcia, Auteur ; L. K. Young, Auteur ; M. Szoboszlai, Auteur ; M. W. Liberatore, Auteur ; Gabriella Baki, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 11-19 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Caractérisation Cosmétiques -- Texture Emollients Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Rhéologie Statistique Taille des gouttelettes Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Product aesthetics and sensory performance can strongly influence a cosmetic product’s acceptance by consumers. However, classic sensory analysis is time-consuming, expensive and does not provide information on the target group’s preference. In the previous phase of this project, we had untrained consumers evaluate six cosmetic emulsions based on their aesthetics using a check-all-that-apply (CATA) survey. In this project, our goals were to quantitatively characterize the rheology and textural properties of the six cosmetic emulsions containing green, bio-derived emollients and identify statistical relationships between the consumers’ description of products and the instrumental measurements. - Methods : Six emulsions were prepared—three with olive oil and three with heptyl undecylenate as an emollient. Four sensory-like attributes, namely firmness, work of shear, stickiness and adhesiveness, were tested using a texture analyser. Rheological characterization included continuous flow testing and oscillatory measurements. Droplet size and stability were also evaluated. Statistical relationships were quantified between measurements in this study and sensory survey results published previously. - Results : The textural and rheological results indicated that the emulsions were different—as designed. The texture and rheology measurements had analogous grouping outcomes to the consumers’ discrimination. Emulsions 1 and 2 were the firmest, hardest to spread, stickiest and had the highest viscosity, while Emulsions 5 and 6 were the least firm, easiest to spread, less sticky than Emulsions 1 and 2, and had the lowest viscosity. Emulsions 3 and 4 fell in between the other two groups. Using olive oil instead of heptyl undecylenate as an emollient increased firmness, spreading, stickiness, viscosity and droplet size of the emulsions in every case—when comparing emulsions within each pair. All six emulsions had a shear-thinning behaviour. Viscosity and firmness directly correlated for the emulsions. Emulsions were visually stable at room temperature over the course of 6 months and viscosity remained relatively constant over this period also. - Conclusion : Certain sensory attributes can be reliably predicted with instrumental measurements. Identifying and quantifying sensory–texture–rheology relationships can contribute to achieving appropriate product characteristics tailored to suit market needs. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS - METHODS : Formulation of the emulsions - Viscosity and rheology - Texture analysis - Droplet size determination - Stability - Data analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Texture analyser - Rheology - Droplet size - Stability - Relationship between rheology–texture–sensory characteristics - Table 1 : Ingredients and percentage of ingredients in the emulsions used in this study - Table 2 : Correlation matrix and scoring coefficients of instrumental variables - Table 3 : Spreadability of the emulsions - Table 4 : Power law parameters, viscosity, storage modulus and yield stress of the emulsions at 25°C - Table 5 : Droplet size of emulsions (average ± SD) - Table 6 : Summary statistics of indicators and CATA counts - Table 7 : Univariate Poisson regression results DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12661 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-SqGcJRQQ3LfzPJkuRqYczO4ClxJ5gW-/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35439 [article]

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