Submicron particles from lipid mixtures – safe, efficient carrier systems for natural whitening agents / Sabilla Digel in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 1-2 (01-02/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 1-2 (01-02/2020) . - p. 14-19 Titre : Submicron particles from lipid mixtures – safe, efficient carrier systems for natural whitening agents Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sabilla Digel, Auteur ; Florence Olechowski, Auteur ; Rainer H. Müller, Auteur ; Sung Min Pyo, Auteur ; Cornelia M. Keck, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 14-19 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents de blanchiment Biomolécules actives Composés organiques -- Synthèse Glabridine La glabridine est un composé chimique qui se trouve dans l'extrait de racine de réglisse (Glycyrrhiza glabra). La glabridine est un isoflavane , un type d'isoflavonoïde. Ce produit fait partie d'une plus grande famille de molécules d'origine végétale, les phénols naturels. Elle est utilisée comme ingrédient dans les cosmétiques et est répertoriée dans la Nomenclature internationale des ingrédients cosmétiques (INCI). La glabridine est une poudre brun jaunâtre. Elle est insoluble dans l'eau, mais soluble dans les solvants organiques tels que le propylène glycol. (Wikipedia) Lipides Mélanine Particules (matières) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Transport biologique Visage -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The global facial care market offers numerous opportunities for enhancing the outward appearance of the facial area. For this, formulators have numerous cosmetic active ingredients at their disposal. However, a powerful active ingredient can only achieve the desired effect on the skin if it has the relevant bioavailability. The active ingredient must, therefore, be able to penetrate the skin efficiently and build up a specific concentration of the active ingredient there. Glabridin is a natural whitening agent extracted from the liquorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra). It intervenes in the biosynthesis of the skin’s own pigment (melanin) and lightens the skin. Its efficacy has been confirmed in numerous publications. However, it is difficult to formulate this active ingredient as it has a very low solubility in lipids. If attempts to incorporate the active ingredient homogeneously into the facial care formulation do not succeed, it will not achieve the relevant bioavailability. This is not the desired outcome given the high price of the active ingredient (five figure amounts per kg). Efficient, controlled penetration of the skin by Glabridin can be achieved by embedding Glabridin in submicron particles made of a semi-crystalline, unordered matrix of selected liquid and solid lipids. Furthermore, the lipid particles help to repair a damaged skin barrier by adhering to the skin thanks to effective adhesion. This adhesion offers the added advantage of prolonged release. The particles are stabilised in suspension and remain in a solid state even at skin temperature. Note de contenu : - The success of whitening products - Pigmentation, hyperpigmentation and depigmentation : Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation - UV radiation - Lentigo - Melasma - Hydroquinone - Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) - 4-n-butylresorcinol - Arbutin - Kojic acid - Glabridin - An effective whitening agent - Submicron lipid particles (smartLipids) - A carrier system for glabridin - Mode of action of the carrier systems based on submicron lipid particles - Penetration study and in vivo effects - Application - Fig. 1 : Diagram of melanin synthesis. The enzyme tyrosinase plays a key role - Fig. 2 : Structure of Glabridin - Fig. 3 : Structure of a BergaBright SmartLipid, a lipid-based carrier system for active ingredients - Fig. 4 : Diagram of the dermal transport of Glabridin using submicron lipid particles as the transport systems - Fig. 5 : Tape strip experiment with Glabridin in powder form and with encapsulated Glabridin in the form of submicron lipid particles - Fig. 6 : Reduction of pigmentation in the facial area after 12 weeks of daily application of a serum with 2% BergaBright SmartLipids Glabridin - Table 1 : Technical framework data for Glabridin-loaded submicron lipid particles (BergaBright SmartLipids Glabridin) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KsN3Hg2qZCYYqkQhxb4zYPHdpahN2E1w/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33754 [article]

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