A unique eco-designed process for an innovative natural active ingredient / Laurie Verzeaux in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 1-2 (01-02/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 1-2 (01-02/2020) . - p. 2-6 Titre : A unique eco-designed process for an innovative natural active ingredient Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Laurie Verzeaux, Auteur ; Christa Chauprade, Auteur ; Catherine Soulie, Auteur ; Stéphanie Richer, Auteur ; Laetitia Marchand, Auteur ; Elodie Aymard, Auteur ; Brigitte Closs, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 2-6 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Biomolécules actives Cou et décolleté -- Soins et hygiène Dermo-cosmétologie Eco-conception Ingrédients cosmétiques Jojoba et constituants Peau -- Soins et hygiène Plan d'expérience Procédés de fabrication Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : For over 35 years, Nature has been at the heart of the company business. Each SILAB active ingredient starts its history as a natural raw material, a source of active molecules capable of endogenously reactivating the skin's original resources. For each development, SILAB guarantees a perfect mastery of natural, from the raw material up to the manufactured ingredient, corresponding to the Mastering natural® program specifications. The resulting active ingredient is natural with no compromise on safety, quality and efficacy. These 3 parameters are considered very early in each active ingredient development. The neck and décolleté area symbolizes femininity and needs to be cosseted with the application of adapted beauty care. This fragile area, exposed to the effects of time, gravity and external stresses, shows evidence of the early signs of aging. However, there is a lack of care dedicated to this body area. The aim of this study was to develop a natural active ingredient, which is safe, of high quality, with identified active molecules and effective on biological markers involved in the appearance of sagging neck and décolleté skin. Note de contenu : - I. Identification of the neck and décolleté needs through modelling - II. Development of a natural active ingredient : A. The natural raw material : Jojoba - B. Establishment of a unique manufacturing process - C. Experience plan - III. Substantiation of isolated molecules on sagging neck and décolleté skin - Fig. 1 : Collagen 1 and periostin expression by fibroblasts isolated from non-sagging and sagging skin. a) Collagen 1 expression investigated by Q-PCR. b) Periostin expression investigated by Q-PCR - Fig. 2 : Picture of jojoba seeds on a shrub - Fig. 3 : Schematic representation of 4 eco-designed processes - Fig. 4 : Collagen 1 and periostin expression by fibroblasts isolated from non-sagging and sagging skin submitted or not to molecules extracted with process 3 or process 4. a) Collagen 1 expression investigated by Q-PCR. b) Periostin expression investigated by Q-PCR - Fig. 5 : Chromatographic profile of molecules isolated by process 4 and principal carbohydrate components identified. (* non-carbohydrate components) - Table 1 : Possible attributions of principal species detected in the carbohydrate fraction of molecules isolated by process 4 (* compounds described in publications on Simmondsia chinensis) - Table 2 : Details of the principal markers of efficacy within molecules isolated from jojoba oil cake with process 4 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/13uyP3UJ7RqWZFqfB6HJJCHJuaVJuij2s/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33752 [article]

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