Encapsulating plant ingredients for dermocosmetic application : an updated review of delivery systems and characterization techniques / S. Yang in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020) . - p. 16-28 Titre : Encapsulating plant ingredients for dermocosmetic application : an updated review of delivery systems and characterization techniques Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. Yang, Auteur ; S. Liu, Auteur ; J. Han, Auteur ; Ying Tang, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 16-28 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chimie végétale Diffusion (physique) Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité Liposomes Nanoparticules Peau -- Soins et hygiène Pénétration (physique) Polymères Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Today, there is a rising demand and ongoing search for novel plant‐derived phytochemicals in the cosmetic market owing to the growing consumer expectations worldwide for green and natural health products. Various plant ingredients, including polyphenols, oils, volatile oils, vitamins and other herbal extracts, have been extensively used in herbal cosmetics. Recent advances in encapsulation technologies have greatly improved their chemical stability, biocompatibility, skin permeability and dermocosmetic efficiency when applied topically. This comprehensive review summarizes the up‐to‐date information on encapsulated plant ingredients tailored for dermocosmetic application with a focus on the development of novel delivery systems. An overview of the commonly used techniques for carrier characterization, performance‐related properties and toxicological evaluation is also included, which might provide guidance for researchers to select or develop appropriate assay systems. Note de contenu : - Encapsulated plant ingredients - Polyphenols - Oils and essential oils - Vitamins - Multiple components/mixed herbal extracts - Novel cosmetic delivery systems - Vesicle system : Liposome - Phytosome - Particulate system : Micro-/nanoparticles - Lipid nanoparticles - Emulsion system : Micro-/nanoemulsion - Multilayer emulsion : Micelles - Pickering emulsions - Fibrous system : Nanofibre/nanotube - Characterization of plant carriers for cosmetic application - Microstructure, composition and encapsulation efficiency - Physical properties that affect stability and functionality : Particle size and homogeneity - Moisture content and hygroscopicity - Thermal properties - Rheological properties - Storage and formulation stabilities - Release profile and transdermal absorption : Franz diffusion cell - Tape stripping - Toxicity : in vitro and in vivo : Cytotoxicity - Phototoxicity - Irritation - Clinical tolerance DOI : 10.1111/ics.12592 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hKXFz0EV7RhNv8y9WlelgI4y2j52x-Ff/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33675 [article]

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Stabilisation and detoxification of henna (Lawsonia inermis L.) extract for hair dye cosmetics by spray-drying encapsulation / Ying Tang in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 135, N° 6 (12/2019)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 135, N° 6 (12/2019) . - p. 439-450 Titre : Stabilisation and detoxification of henna (Lawsonia inermis L.) extract for hair dye cosmetics by spray-drying encapsulation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ying Tang, Auteur ; Wendan He, Auteur ; Shuyan Yang, Auteur ; Lei Liu, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 439-450 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Teinture Colorants végétaux Cosmétiques Encapsulation Extraction (chimie) Henné -- Détoxication Séchage par pulvérisation Stabilité au stockage Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : Henna (Lawsonia inermis L.) leaves have been widely used as a natural plant colorant for hair dyeing and body art. However, the utilisation of henna dye extract in commercial colour cosmetics is compromised by its potential harmful effects to humans. This study demonstrates that spray-drying encapsulation using maltodextrin and gum arabic as biocompatible polymeric carriers can be used as a promising strategy to detoxify henna dye extract while maintaining its hair dyeing efficiency for cosmetics. Henna extract-loaded microcapsules with an average particle size of 4.1 µm were prepared with an excellent encapsulation efficiency (98.4%) and a negative zeta potential (-34.4 mV). The morphology and physicochemical properties of the microcapsules were characterised by comparison with a spray-dried sample of neat henna extract. The in vitro toxicological results showed that the microencapsulation process significantly reduced the contact toxicity of henna extract towards human epidermal keratinocytes as well as to the eyes and skin. The encapsulated henna extract also exhibited improved storage stability at three different temperatures (4, 25 and 50°C) for 14 days. Furthermore, the microcapsules demonstrated satisfactory hair dyeing efficiency as natural colorants with good colour fastness towards light and washing. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials - Henna dye extraction - Spray-drying conditions - Characterisation of HE-loaded - Storage stability - Assessment of in vitro toxicity - Dyeing efficiency and colour fastness - Statistics - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Microcapsules characteristics - Storage stability at different temperatures - In vitro toxicity - Hair dyeing efficiency and colour fastness DOI : 10.1111/cote.12433 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12433 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33376 [article]

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