A new multifunctional ingredient for formulators : bringing innovation in cosmetics through the instigation of nature / Philippe Maréchal in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 3 (03/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 3 (03/2019) . - p. 36-44 Titre : A new multifunctional ingredient for formulators : bringing innovation in cosmetics through the instigation of nature Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Philippe Maréchal, Auteur ; Nathalie Loubat-Bouleuc, Auteur ; M. Villedieu, Auteur ; Fabien Merlaud, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 36-44 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents dispersants (chimie) Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Ester d'estolide Formulation (Génie chimique) Hydratation Ingrédients cosmétiques Lèvres -- Soins et hygiène Matériaux filmogènes Peau -- Soins et hygiène Polymères -- Biodégradation Polymères -- Synthèse Produits hydratants shampooings Texturants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The use of cosmetics is connected to soul and body; with an increasing desire for sustainability. As an answer, several types of estolides were synthetized by ingredient manufacturers, starting from vegetable fatty acids. Two main ways of synthesis of these intermolecular esters can be considered, depending on the raw materials. We developed a new estolide ester, based on castor oil, engineered with as few transformations as possible, showing a great versatility in applications for cosmetic formulators, and a high degree of Naturality. The performances of this innovative polymer ingredient, dedicated to haircare, skincare, and lipcare, were screened through a sensorial panel and instruments. Our estolide ester brings a broad range of properties as texturizing or film-forming agent, and moisturizer. It also shows interesting values as a pigment disperser. During application on hairs, skin, or lips, this ester of estolide will give high protective properties from air pollution. The ingredient we tuned showed to be fully biodegradable, and its NOI (Natural Origin Index) is 87%. Our commitment to Naturality determined our scientific approach, and our technology allowed us to manufacture this ester of estolide with unique performances and a reduced environmental footprint. Note de contenu : - General ideas about estolides - Estolide esters for innovation - Versatility in applications - Fig. 1 : General scheme for esterification following the Fisher's mechanism - Fig. 2 : General chemical patern for an estolide : m1+m2 ⩾ 2 , n ⩾ 0, and R, a carbon chain of any type, short or long, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, functionalized or not... - Fig. 3 : Estolide formation from oleic acids - Fig. 4 : estolide formation from 12-hydroxystearic acid - Fig. 5 : Reaction of capping of a estolide chain, by a stearic acid - Fig. 6 : Formation of an estolide ester through the reaction of an ethylhexyl alcohol - Fig. 7 : DUB ESTOLINE chemical structure - Fig. 8 : Sensory profile of DUB ESTOLINE in comparison with phytosqualane test on framework formulaat 15%, internal panel of 10, with a defined protocol application on forearm - Fig. 9 : Measurement of the Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) on the forearm of 10 volunteers with a cream containing 5% test substance - Fig. 10 : Measurement of hydration on the stratum corneum with a corneometer after treatment with a cream containing 5% test substance - Fig. 11 : Quantization of carbonyl residues in skin explants treated with a cream containing 5% ethylhexyl polyhydroxystearate - Fig. 12 : Binding ability of DUB ESTOLINE, another binder containing castor oil derivatives and another ester - Table 1 : Spectrum of application properties in cosmetics of estolides and estolide esters, reviewed in literature - Table 2 : Composition of the framework formula used in sensory tests. Test substance : vegetable oil, phytosqualane, estolide ester - Table 3 : Composition of the O/W model emulsion used in efficiency tests in skin care. Test substance : vegetable oil, hydrocarbon, estolide ester - Table 4 : Composition of the shampoo used for thehair care tests. Test substance : estolide ester, dimethicone - Table 5 : Evolution of the weights of tresses after treatments with model shampoos - Table 6 : Composition of the foundation formulation used for compaction tests En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gzskXdzZwMMhVHalGbt2oHe9YUX1O8Ig/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32033 [article]

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