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Simple and effective particle-size characterization of opaque emulsions / Lucile Bonnin in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018)
[article]
Titre : Simple and effective particle-size characterization of opaque emulsions Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Lucile Bonnin, Auteur ; Burkhard Müller, Auteur ; Thomas Gassenmeier, Auteur ; Reinhard H. H. Neubert, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 38-44 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caractérisation
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Emulsions -- Stabilité
Evaluation
Granulométrie
Taille des particulesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Because emulsions are metastable, predicting their stability and phase bahavior is a crucial topic of research. Indeed, emulsions are widely used in the chemical industry and formulators must be able to asses their stability e.g. life-cycle or shelves-life. Although several devices, avaible on the market, are claiming to be able to asses emulsions' stability, they often use laser or ultrasound diffraction techniques which offer limited capabilities for studying opaque emulsions. This study is decribing how the usage of a simple light microscope, already present as a standard equipment in lots of laboratories, can lead to the precise assessment of the particle-size distribution of various cosmetic o/w emulsions. The light microscope was equipped with an objective (40x) having a negative phase-contrast ring. The particle-size characterization by means of phase-contrast microscopy enabled to draw conclusion about the stability over time of two o/w emulsions and to observe the influence of additives on their phase behavior. This novel image analysis method delivered relevant information about the particle-size distribution i.e. stability, of the emulsions at an earlier stage than classical stability tests mathods. Note de contenu : - Cosmetic O/W opaque emulsion : composition and formulation
- Phase-contrast microscopy
- Fig. 1 : Appearance of the o/w opaque cosmetic emulsion
- Fig. 2 : Microstructure of the o/w emulsion forming a gel network (re-drawn from Klein [9])
- Fig. 3 : 40x objective equipped with a negative phase-contrast (Ph 2) mode
- Fig. 4 : Representation of the phase-contrast microscopy base principle
- Fig. 5 : Image analysis process of the o/w emulsion under phase-contrast microscopy
- Fig. 6 : O/W emulsion's photomicrograph after automatic recognition of the particles clustered according to their radius (R) size
- Fig. 7 : O/W emulsions containing either no (a) or 1% w/w additive (b) under phase-contrast light microscopy at t0
- Fig. 8 : Particle-size distribution of the o/w emulsion containing no additive at t0 and after 3 months storage at RT with N(t0)=13873 and N(3 months)= 12661
- Fig. 9 : Particle-size distribution of the o/w emulsion containing 1% w/w of additive at t0 and after 3 months storage at RT with N(t0)= 10689 and N(3 months)= 10229
- Table 1 : Composition of the opaque cosmetic o/w emulsion
- Table 2 : Statistical results of the particle count for both o/w emulsions at t0 and after 3 months storage at RTEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tV5s3MbmMDc_ID0VGKhlM-NRRxS4LjVX/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31328
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018) . - p. 38-44[article]Réservation
Réserver ce documentThe smart salon concept : Individualized hair care & coloration products / Thomas Förster in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 4 (04/2019)
[article]
Titre : The smart salon concept : Individualized hair care & coloration products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Thomas Förster, Auteur ; Georg Knübel, Auteur ; Lucile Bonnin, Auteur ; Thomas Schröder, Auteur ; Elisabeth Poppe, Auteur ; Matthias Schweinsberg, Auteur ; Jordan Katzarov, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 4-10 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Marketing personnalisé
shampooingsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Due to the individual hair-type diversity, it is nowadays challenging to satisfy all specific consumer needs. The first of its kind connected Smart Salon is combining: data driven hair analysis, a personal hair-consultation application and the formulation of a customized shampoo to address this challenge. In a first step, a wearable device composed of a near-infrared (NIR) and a visible light sensor, analyzes the hair fiber. The NIR analysis collects: the cysteic acid concentration and the water content. The actual color of the hair fiber is also measured with a visible light sensor. Quantification of the hair status is performed through analysis of chemometric data with the open-source software KNIME. In a second step, a visual evaluation e.g. previous treatment, length, thickness of the hair is performed and the user expectations e.g. volume, shine, smoothness etc. are collected in the consultation application. Finally, all gathered data are combined in a decision matrix to formulate a customized shampoo. The compact mixing machine uses a proprietary manufacturing process to produce a custom care solution. The connected ecosystem is combining innovative technologies with empirical R&D expertise to offer the best possible care solution. Automatization of the hair analysis enables a more targeted approach for individualized shampoo development. Note de contenu : - The smart salon analyzer
- The smart salon application and the hairdresser's questionnaire
- The smart salon customizer and tailor-made shampoo formulations
- Smart salon ecosystem architecture and operation
- Fig. 1 : Expert input interface from the control smart salon application
- Fig. 2 : Smart salon customizer dimensions
- Fig. 3 : Smart salon ecosystem at a glance
- Fig. 4 : Decision matrix displaying the smart salon analyzer's output results (health level and moisture level), the hairdresser's inputs (hair type, hair length, scalp condition and choice of parfum/color) and the resulting shampoo formulation
- Fig. 5 : Assessment in vivo of the customized shampoo compared to the mass manufactured care gliss kur ultimate repair shampoo and the schaum repair and care shampoo
- Table 1 : Basic components of the pre-mixes
- Table 2 : Detailed composition of the ten different channels/pre-mixesEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/15Riw2-u9OR7cJB-4eTWqY8yeSC2FhjZ1/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32283
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 4 (04/2019) . - p. 4-10[article]Réservation
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