Functional vegan silk - Crafted by white biotechnology to utilise a new way to take care of damaged hair / Joachim Müller in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020) . - p. 34-43 Titre : Functional vegan silk - Crafted by white biotechnology to utilise a new way to take care of damaged hair Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Joachim Müller, Auteur ; Natalie Blost, Auteur ; Kristin Nessbach, Auteur ; Morgane de Tollenaere, Auteur ; Amandine Scandolera, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 34-43 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-pollution Actifs antidécoloration Biopolymères Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Chimie biomimétique Polypeptides Un polypeptide est une chaîne d'acides aminés reliés par des liaisons peptidiques. On parle de polypeptide lorsque la chaîne contient entre 10 et 100 acides aminés. Au-dessus de 100 acides aminés on parle généralement de protéine. Parmi eux, les peptides multi-cycliques, les peptides phosphorylés ou encore ceux intégrant des liaisons non-peptidiques ou des peptides conjugués. Certains polypeptides constituent une famille d'antibiotiques dont les molécules très toxiques n'en permettent qu'un usage très limité. D'autres s’imposent aujourd’hui comme des éléments essentiels à la mise au point de vaccins ou de principes actifs destinés aux traitements de certaines pathologies telles que les cancers, les déficiences hormonales, l’ostéoporose. Produits vegan Soie et constituants Soie végétale Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Human hair can be damaged in many different ways. Frequently in everyday life, the natural fibres come into close contact with heat or chemical agents, which attack and damage their structure and can impair their visual appearance. In recent decades, various substances have been identified and developed by the cosmetics industry to minimize such influences. Previously, it has been reported that Silkgel, a breakthrough nature-inspired biopolymer from Givaudan Active Beauty, offers many unique benefits particularly for the use in hair care applications such as anti-pollution, anti-colour-fading and sensorial features. A completely new application for this highly innovative, vegan and biomimetic raw material presents its use as conditioning agent to protect and repair the hair structure from damages. Due to its defined composition and its ability to self-assembly, the biotechnologically derived vegan silk polypeptides inside the Silkgel are able to form a protective and conditioning film onto the surface of the hair. Therefore, vegan silk molecules can represent a valid alternative to traditional and chemical protective conditioning agents based on hydrolysates such as keratin, wheat protein and wheat starch. According to our latest findings, it has been demonstrated that vegan silk polypeptides used as protective or repair conditioning agents were able to increase the breaking force as well as to decrease the 3D volume fraction of the damage (x-ray nanotomography) of thermally treated and dyed hair. Thus, in contrast to conventional raw materials based on e.g. silicones, which are commonly used for hair conditioning and protection, vegan silk represents a true ecological, natural-inspired and vegan alternative with an excellent protective and repairing performance for both thermal treatment and colouration of hair, thereby meeting the expectations of the highly innovative clean beauty market. Note de contenu : - THE HAIR STYLING MARKET WILL CONTINUE TO GROW WITH THE RISING CONSUMER DEMAND OF INNOVATIVE ACTIVE INGREDIENTS - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Evaluation of Silkgel as protection and hair repair agent - Ex vivo measurements of hair breakage using tensile testing - Hair protection study – thermal protection - Hair repair study – regeneration of thermally and chemically induced damages - RESULTS : Vegan Silk – An excellent protection agent for hair care - Real added value – Silk treatments for hair repair Silk induced repair visualized using x-ray nanotomography - CONCLUSION : Functional vegan silk – Meeting the performance and clean beauty market expectations En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/17nsR89BCcY2z529gqLJce9TIQ-7Vs1O4/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34598 [article]

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The new dimension of microcapsules : plastic-free encapsulation technology using functional vegan silk polypeptides / Joachim Müller in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018) . - p. 8-13 Titre : The new dimension of microcapsules : plastic-free encapsulation technology using functional vegan silk polypeptides Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Joachim Müller, Auteur ; Ralf Mehrwald, Auteur ; Natalie Blosl, Auteur ; Sabine Schlay, Auteur ; Kristin Schacht, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 8-13 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Encapsulation Formulation (Génie chimique) Microcapsules Polypeptides Un polypeptide est une chaîne d'acides aminés reliés par des liaisons peptidiques. On parle de polypeptide lorsque la chaîne contient entre 10 et 100 acides aminés. Au-dessus de 100 acides aminés on parle généralement de protéine. Parmi eux, les peptides multi-cycliques, les peptides phosphorylés ou encore ceux intégrant des liaisons non-peptidiques ou des peptides conjugués. Certains polypeptides constituent une famille d'antibiotiques dont les molécules très toxiques n'en permettent qu'un usage très limité. D'autres s’imposent aujourd’hui comme des éléments essentiels à la mise au point de vaccins ou de principes actifs destinés aux traitements de certaines pathologies telles que les cancers, les déficiences hormonales, l’ostéoporose. Soie et constituants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Functional vegan silk polypeptides are used in personal care products for protective benefits, such as a breathable anti-pollution protection, and as a natural fixator for long-lasting effects. One step further goes the development of the first easy-to-use functional cosmetic microcapsules without the need of microplastic. This opens up new dimensions for personal care products. Both, lipophilic substances as well as hydrophilic substances (e.g. fragrances, dyes) can be encapsulated by vegan silk, achieving prolonged efficacy and protection of actives. Note de contenu : - Encapsulation at a glance - Functional silk polypeptides enable the encapsulation of lipophilic substances - Encapsulation of water soluble substances using functional silk polypeptides - Fig. 1 : Formulations with functional silk microcapsules. Encapsulation of the model substances methylene blue and carmine (E120) with silk polypeptides - Fig. 2 : Schematic procedure for the encapsulation of lipophilic substances with functional silk polypeptidess. To show the encapsulation effect, the silk capsule can optionally be stained with specific - Fig. 3 : Blue -stained beta-carotene silk capsules appear green in a skin cream. Due to the mechanical stress applied during creaming, the capsule shell is destroyed and its contents are released, resulting in a yellow color change - Fig. 4 : Microscopic image using laser scanning microscopy (LSM) of silk capsules incorporated into an emulsion. The graph illustrates the homogenous size distribution of silk microcapsules with an average diameter of approx. 17 µm. 90% of the capsules range in size between 10 and 30 µm. - Fig. 5 : Scent intensity increases upon mechanical stress of silk capsules - Fig. 6 : Schematic composition and laser scanning image of hydrophilic silk - Fig. 7 : Manufacturing process of silk capsules containing water soluble substances. The encapsulation solution, consisting of liquefied silkgel, liqiud silk solution and the substance to be encapsulated, is transformed into an oil phase in single droplets. After solidification and washing, capsules are ready for the incorporation into cosmetic products - Table 1 : Stability parameters for silk capsules En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T8phxejr8AAR-T-RQjKl2tLqvyTSojEc/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31086 [article]

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