Particulate matter adheres to human hair exposed to severe aerial pollution: consequences for certain hair surface properties / A. Galliano in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017)

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017) . - p. 610-616 Titre : Particulate matter adheres to human hair exposed to severe aerial pollution: consequences for certain hair surface properties Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : A. Galliano, Auteur ; C. Ye, Auteur ; F. Su, Auteur ; C. Wang, Auteur ; Y. Wang, Auteur ; C. Liu, Auteur ; A. Wagle, Auteur ; M. Guerin, Auteur ; Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; A. Steel, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 610-616 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Effets de la pollution atmosphérique Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Chimie analytique Particules (matières) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Background : The deposit and adherence of particulate matter (PM) from aerial pollution onto the surface of human hair is a poorly studied phenomenon. Objectives : (i) To reproduce in vitro the deposit of known PM on standardized hair swatches in a closed box, (ii) to compare in vitro data with those obtained under ‘real-life’ conditions of severe aerial pollution and (iii) to assess the changes of the hair surface properties, potentially caused by the adherence of airborne PM onto the hair. Methods : In vitro : a PM was sprayed onto untreated or sebum-coated hair swatches. Real-life conditions : other swatches were exposed to a severely polluted environment, for 24 to 72 h, in Baoding (PR China). In both cases, swatches were examined using scanning electron microscopy. The shine, the frictional properties and the level of metals were measured and compared to those same properties for the unexposed swatches. Results : This work clearly indicates that, under real-life conditions, a large number of PM of various sizes are deposited onto the hair surface. This phenomenon is increased by the presence of sebum and longer exposure times. The in vitro level of PM deposited onto the hair surface is comparable to the in vivo level. The presence of sebum seems to favour the deposit of larger PM. The shine of the exposed swatches is significantly decreased, whereas their respective friction coefficients are significantly increased. Both the presence of sebum and length of exposure time increased the amount of analysed metals present on the exposed hair surface (Al, Fe, Cu, Ba and Zn). Conclusion : This work indicates that a very high amount (e.g. billions) of PM can be deposited on a full head of hair for subjects living in a severely aerially polluted environment. This process can be reproduced in vitro. In real-life, pollution has a strong impact on hair surface properties, leading to a modification of the visual aspect (loss of shine) and the alteration of hair surface (increase in friction force). This work may be used to pave the way for prevention and cleansing studies in the field of hair care. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Hair swatches - In vitro and real-life protocols - Instrumental and visual/tactile determinations - Statistics - RESULTS : Adhesion of particulate matter (PM) onto the hair surface - Impact on frictional properties - Impact on hair shine - Presence of metals - DISCUSSION DOI : 10.1111/ics.12416 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29471 [article]

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The worldwide diversity of scalp seborrhoea, as daily experienced by seven human ethnic groups / F. Pouradier in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017)

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017) . - p. 629-636 Titre : The worldwide diversity of scalp seborrhoea, as daily experienced by seven human ethnic groups Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : F. Pouradier, Auteur ; C. Liu, Auteur ; J. Wares, Auteur ; E. Yokoyama, Auteur ; C. Collaudin, Auteur ; S. Panhard, Auteur ; Didier Saint-Léger, Auteur ; G. Loussouarn, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 629-636 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuir chevelu Groupe ethnique Mesure Peau -- Physiologie Sébum Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : OBJECTIVE : The re-greasing process and kinetics of the human scalp, post-shampooing, have been previously documented, in vivo, on a few Caucasian subjects. The objective of the presented research was to extend such knowledge over seven different ethnic groups. METHODS : The post-shampooing re-greasing kinetics of the scalp was studied on 1325 subjects (women and men of two distinct age classes) from seven different ethnic groups in their residential and native country. Sebum amounts were determined onto small shaved scalp areas at various times post-shampooing, using the Sebumeter® technique. RESULTS : As previously published on Caucasian subjects, scalp re-greasing process follows a hyperbolic-like kinetics over days. However, amounts of collected sebum highly vary with ethnicity. As recorded through the casual level (CL) at the equilibrium phase, 2–3 days post-shampooing, the highest amount of sebum was found in African American subjects, followed in descending order by Caucasian American, Japanese, Chinese, Thai, Caucasian European and Indian subjects, the latter showing very low values. Lower amounts of sebum were recorded in the older age class in all ethnics, as compared to the younger one, and male subjects were found higher sebum producers than women, irrespective of ethnicity. CONCLUSION : The kinetics and slopes of the re-greasing process of the human scalp appear similar in all ethnic groups studied. However, striking quantitative differences are found between the seven ethnic groups, resulting from different sebaceous production levels and scalp hygiene routines. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Locations and timing of the studies - Subjects - Protocol - Statistics - RESULTS : Sebum production over time in the seven groups - DISCUSSION DOI : 10.1111/ics.12425 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29478 [article]

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