Efficient hair protection - the multi-functional silk polypeptide as new and promising strategy against pollution / Natalie Blost in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 7-8 (07-08/2017)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 7-8 (07-08/2017) . - p. 42-45 Titre : Efficient hair protection - the multi-functional silk polypeptide as new and promising strategy against pollution Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Natalie Blost, Auteur ; Kristin Stacht, Auteur ; Roman Ott, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 42-45 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cheveux -- Teinture Cosmétiques Polypeptides Un polypeptide est une chaîne d'acides aminés reliés par des liaisons peptidiques. On parle de polypeptide lorsque la chaîne contient entre 10 et 100 acides aminés. Au-dessus de 100 acides aminés on parle généralement de protéine. Parmi eux, les peptides multi-cycliques, les peptides phosphorylés ou encore ceux intégrant des liaisons non-peptidiques ou des peptides conjugués. Certains polypeptides constituent une famille d'antibiotiques dont les molécules très toxiques n'en permettent qu'un usage très limité. D'autres s’imposent aujourd’hui comme des éléments essentiels à la mise au point de vaccins ou de principes actifs destinés aux traitements de certaines pathologies telles que les cancers, les déficiences hormonales, l’ostéoporose. Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Healthy hair is associated with strength, smooth texture and shine. Air pollution, sunlight, sea and chlorine water can, however, damage hair substantially. The affected hair often looks dull and feels dry. Colored hair requires even more attention and suitable care. Exposed to sea water and/or chlorine water it can be rendered less vibrant in hue, sometimes even showing visible color changes. To shield the hair from such unwanted environmental impacts, an effective protection strategy is essential. The functional, vegan silk polypeptide is an ideal candidate for respective hair protection strategies. The novel silk polypeptide acts as film former protecting hair from harmful environmental impacts. The functional, vegan silk polypeptide can find application in various hair product formulations. Note de contenu : - HAIR CARE TRENDS AND COLOR PROTECTION - ANTI-POLLUTION - METHODS AND RESULTS : Functional silk treatment does not influence the result of the coloration process - The functional vegan silk polypeptide protects colored hair against sea and chlorine water - Silkgel as a protective agent against pollution En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1n6Pmg7H4paac10otjyKp-2zhjHxDOXHp/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28969 [article]

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Functional vegan silk - Crafted by white biotechnology to utilise a new way to take care of damaged hair / Joachim Müller in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020) . - p. 34-43 Titre : Functional vegan silk - Crafted by white biotechnology to utilise a new way to take care of damaged hair Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Joachim Müller, Auteur ; Natalie Blost, Auteur ; Kristin Nessbach, Auteur ; Morgane de Tollenaere, Auteur ; Amandine Scandolera, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 34-43 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-pollution Actifs antidécoloration Biopolymères Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Chimie biomimétique Polypeptides Un polypeptide est une chaîne d'acides aminés reliés par des liaisons peptidiques. On parle de polypeptide lorsque la chaîne contient entre 10 et 100 acides aminés. Au-dessus de 100 acides aminés on parle généralement de protéine. Parmi eux, les peptides multi-cycliques, les peptides phosphorylés ou encore ceux intégrant des liaisons non-peptidiques ou des peptides conjugués. Certains polypeptides constituent une famille d'antibiotiques dont les molécules très toxiques n'en permettent qu'un usage très limité. D'autres s’imposent aujourd’hui comme des éléments essentiels à la mise au point de vaccins ou de principes actifs destinés aux traitements de certaines pathologies telles que les cancers, les déficiences hormonales, l’ostéoporose. Produits vegan Soie et constituants Soie végétale Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Human hair can be damaged in many different ways. Frequently in everyday life, the natural fibres come into close contact with heat or chemical agents, which attack and damage their structure and can impair their visual appearance. In recent decades, various substances have been identified and developed by the cosmetics industry to minimize such influences. Previously, it has been reported that Silkgel, a breakthrough nature-inspired biopolymer from Givaudan Active Beauty, offers many unique benefits particularly for the use in hair care applications such as anti-pollution, anti-colour-fading and sensorial features. A completely new application for this highly innovative, vegan and biomimetic raw material presents its use as conditioning agent to protect and repair the hair structure from damages. Due to its defined composition and its ability to self-assembly, the biotechnologically derived vegan silk polypeptides inside the Silkgel are able to form a protective and conditioning film onto the surface of the hair. Therefore, vegan silk molecules can represent a valid alternative to traditional and chemical protective conditioning agents based on hydrolysates such as keratin, wheat protein and wheat starch. According to our latest findings, it has been demonstrated that vegan silk polypeptides used as protective or repair conditioning agents were able to increase the breaking force as well as to decrease the 3D volume fraction of the damage (x-ray nanotomography) of thermally treated and dyed hair. Thus, in contrast to conventional raw materials based on e.g. silicones, which are commonly used for hair conditioning and protection, vegan silk represents a true ecological, natural-inspired and vegan alternative with an excellent protective and repairing performance for both thermal treatment and colouration of hair, thereby meeting the expectations of the highly innovative clean beauty market. Note de contenu : - THE HAIR STYLING MARKET WILL CONTINUE TO GROW WITH THE RISING CONSUMER DEMAND OF INNOVATIVE ACTIVE INGREDIENTS - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Evaluation of Silkgel as protection and hair repair agent - Ex vivo measurements of hair breakage using tensile testing - Hair protection study – thermal protection - Hair repair study – regeneration of thermally and chemically induced damages - RESULTS : Vegan Silk – An excellent protection agent for hair care - Real added value – Silk treatments for hair repair Silk induced repair visualized using x-ray nanotomography - CONCLUSION : Functional vegan silk – Meeting the performance and clean beauty market expectations En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/17nsR89BCcY2z529gqLJce9TIQ-7Vs1O4/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34598 [article]

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Functional vegan silk prolongs the effect of dihydroxyacetone in sunless self-tanning products / J. Muller in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 12 (12/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 12 (12/2018) . - p. 30-34 Titre : Functional vegan silk prolongs the effect of dihydroxyacetone in sunless self-tanning products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : J. Muller, Auteur ; Natalie Blost, Auteur ; Kristin Schacht, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 30-34 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Autobronzants Cosmétiques Dihydroxyacétone Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Soie végétale Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : To achieve a sun-kissed and even tan throughout the year without exposure to harmful UV radiation, the use of self-tanning products is very popular among many consumers. The product selection in this segment is diverse, but alternatives to us active ingredients are low. Most manufacturers typically use dihydroxyacetone (DHA), which causes a tanning reaction in the uppermost skin layer. As the degree of tanning of the skin decreases steadily over time, for longer-lasting effects the self-tanning product must be reapplied at intervals of 3-5 days. Industry is looking for solutions to prolong those intervals. One interesting option is the use of vegan silk to extend the tanning effect. So far, the use of functional, vegan silk was proven to extend the release of fragrances and other actives such as insect repellents. Therefore, the influence of vegan silk on a potential prolonging effect on DHA has been investigated. In formulation, even at pre-set pH values between 4 and 5, for the combination of DHA and vegan silk an excellent stability was determined. Here, it has been proven that the formulation with functional vegan silk can achieve a longer-lasting tan. With increasing silk concentrations tanning results were significantly improved compared to the usage of a conventional formulation without silk. Note de contenu : - Sunless self-tanning - healthy tan without exposure to harmful radiation - Dihydroxyacetone and vegan silk - a compatible system - Long-tasting tan using vegan silk - Fig. 1 : Skin protection study to show the filforming and protective properties of functional vegan silk - Fig. 2 : Degree of browning of the treated skin areas exemplary for one test person on day 8 - Fig. 3 : Pourecentage decrease of the tanning-level of self-tanning gel treated areas over 8 days - Fig. 4 : Schematic model to illustrate the prologing effect of silkgel on the tanning result with sunless self-tanning formulation En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iht0eL6p1CSRcMRy5vIB9Lng6gEiEl4Q/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31519 [article]

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