Breathable nail polish on the basis of a new blend : A complex of water-based polymer and functional vegan silk / Sabine Schlay in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 10 (10/2017)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 10 (10/2017) . - p. 56-62 Titre : Breathable nail polish on the basis of a new blend : A complex of water-based polymer and functional vegan silk Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sabine Schlay, Auteur ; Kristin Schacht, Auteur ; Audrey Lohmann, Auteur ; Uwe Storzer, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 56-62 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Formulation (Génie chimique) Perméabilité Polymères en émulsion Vernis à ongles Vernis en phase aqueuse Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Beautiful and healthy nails take on more and more significance for many customers. Thus, when developing new and innovative nail polishes, breathability is a significant factor. In this paper, breathability of nail polishes, which is often referred to as a combination of air/O2 and water vapor permeability, was investigated. For this purpose, two solvent-based nail polish formulations were benchmarked against two water-based nail polish formulations according to DIN-Norm 53122-1 and 53380-3. The data clearly indicate, that water-based nail polish formulations based on Suntran polymer perform considerably better. In combination with Silkgel, the hybrid polymer Silktran is formed, which increases both oxygen and water vapor permeability, making this novel hybrid polymer a unique best-in-class performance product. Note de contenu : - WATER-BASSED POLMER (SYNTRAN 5620CG) - FUNCTIONAL VEGAN SILK (SILKGEL) - INNOVATIVE BREATHABLE AND WATER-BASED NAIL POLISH TECHNOLOGY - FORMULATIONS - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Preparation of dried nail polish films - Determination of the oxygen permeability - Determination of the water vapor permeability En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AWCGMbgK5jfNdUNwzbVnFr-59YKxQD8N/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29343 [article]

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Functional vegan silk prolongs the effect of dihydroxyacetone in sunless self-tanning products / J. Muller in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 12 (12/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 12 (12/2018) . - p. 30-34 Titre : Functional vegan silk prolongs the effect of dihydroxyacetone in sunless self-tanning products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : J. Muller, Auteur ; Natalie Blost, Auteur ; Kristin Schacht, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 30-34 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Autobronzants Cosmétiques Dihydroxyacétone Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Soie végétale Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : To achieve a sun-kissed and even tan throughout the year without exposure to harmful UV radiation, the use of self-tanning products is very popular among many consumers. The product selection in this segment is diverse, but alternatives to us active ingredients are low. Most manufacturers typically use dihydroxyacetone (DHA), which causes a tanning reaction in the uppermost skin layer. As the degree of tanning of the skin decreases steadily over time, for longer-lasting effects the self-tanning product must be reapplied at intervals of 3-5 days. Industry is looking for solutions to prolong those intervals. One interesting option is the use of vegan silk to extend the tanning effect. So far, the use of functional, vegan silk was proven to extend the release of fragrances and other actives such as insect repellents. Therefore, the influence of vegan silk on a potential prolonging effect on DHA has been investigated. In formulation, even at pre-set pH values between 4 and 5, for the combination of DHA and vegan silk an excellent stability was determined. Here, it has been proven that the formulation with functional vegan silk can achieve a longer-lasting tan. With increasing silk concentrations tanning results were significantly improved compared to the usage of a conventional formulation without silk. Note de contenu : - Sunless self-tanning - healthy tan without exposure to harmful radiation - Dihydroxyacetone and vegan silk - a compatible system - Long-tasting tan using vegan silk - Fig. 1 : Skin protection study to show the filforming and protective properties of functional vegan silk - Fig. 2 : Degree of browning of the treated skin areas exemplary for one test person on day 8 - Fig. 3 : Pourecentage decrease of the tanning-level of self-tanning gel treated areas over 8 days - Fig. 4 : Schematic model to illustrate the prologing effect of silkgel on the tanning result with sunless self-tanning formulation En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iht0eL6p1CSRcMRy5vIB9Lng6gEiEl4Q/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31519 [article]

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Prevention of biofilm formation with vegan silk polypeptides / Kristin Schacht in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 4 (04/2017)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 4 (04/2017) . - p. 32-36 Titre : Prevention of biofilm formation with vegan silk polypeptides Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Kristin Schacht, Auteur ; Ute Slotta, Auteur ; Michael Suhre, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 32-36 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antimicrobiens Biofilms Polypeptides Un polypeptide est une chaîne d'acides aminés reliés par des liaisons peptidiques. On parle de polypeptide lorsque la chaîne contient entre 10 et 100 acides aminés. Au-dessus de 100 acides aminés on parle généralement de protéine. Parmi eux, les peptides multi-cycliques, les peptides phosphorylés ou encore ceux intégrant des liaisons non-peptidiques ou des peptides conjugués. Certains polypeptides constituent une famille d'antibiotiques dont les molécules très toxiques n'en permettent qu'un usage très limité. D'autres s’imposent aujourd’hui comme des éléments essentiels à la mise au point de vaccins ou de principes actifs destinés aux traitements de certaines pathologies telles que les cancers, les déficiences hormonales, l’ostéoporose. Revêtements Soie et constituants Staphylocoques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The prevention of undesired biofilm formation is one of the emerging tasks in personal care/oral care, medical technology, food applications and in the textile industry, among others today, there is no suitable technique available to prevent formation of such biofilms except by heavy treatrnent with biocides and/or antibiotics. Here, a novel and promising approach by employing biofilm-preventing surfaces using innovative vegan silk polypeptides, available as powders (Silkbeads), aqueous solutions, hydrogels (Silkgel) and even in form of Biosteel' fibers, is presented. Note de contenu : - BIOFILMS - GOOD AND BAD - STRATEGIES TO CONTROL BIOFILM FORMATION - DIFFERENCE BETWEEN SILK PROTEINS AND VEGAN SILK POLYPEPTIDES - METHODS AND RESULTS : Silk as protective agent against bacterial adhesion - Silk coating reduces biofilm formation on hydrphobic surfaces En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IbsDz5j0nxt7FdkLndbwbHNSX_B3PuJf/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28544 [article]

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The new dimension of microcapsules : plastic-free encapsulation technology using functional vegan silk polypeptides / Joachim Müller in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018) . - p. 8-13 Titre : The new dimension of microcapsules : plastic-free encapsulation technology using functional vegan silk polypeptides Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Joachim Müller, Auteur ; Ralf Mehrwald, Auteur ; Natalie Blosl, Auteur ; Sabine Schlay, Auteur ; Kristin Schacht, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 8-13 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Encapsulation Formulation (Génie chimique) Microcapsules Polypeptides Un polypeptide est une chaîne d'acides aminés reliés par des liaisons peptidiques. On parle de polypeptide lorsque la chaîne contient entre 10 et 100 acides aminés. Au-dessus de 100 acides aminés on parle généralement de protéine. Parmi eux, les peptides multi-cycliques, les peptides phosphorylés ou encore ceux intégrant des liaisons non-peptidiques ou des peptides conjugués. Certains polypeptides constituent une famille d'antibiotiques dont les molécules très toxiques n'en permettent qu'un usage très limité. D'autres s’imposent aujourd’hui comme des éléments essentiels à la mise au point de vaccins ou de principes actifs destinés aux traitements de certaines pathologies telles que les cancers, les déficiences hormonales, l’ostéoporose. Soie et constituants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Functional vegan silk polypeptides are used in personal care products for protective benefits, such as a breathable anti-pollution protection, and as a natural fixator for long-lasting effects. One step further goes the development of the first easy-to-use functional cosmetic microcapsules without the need of microplastic. This opens up new dimensions for personal care products. Both, lipophilic substances as well as hydrophilic substances (e.g. fragrances, dyes) can be encapsulated by vegan silk, achieving prolonged efficacy and protection of actives. Note de contenu : - Encapsulation at a glance - Functional silk polypeptides enable the encapsulation of lipophilic substances - Encapsulation of water soluble substances using functional silk polypeptides - Fig. 1 : Formulations with functional silk microcapsules. Encapsulation of the model substances methylene blue and carmine (E120) with silk polypeptides - Fig. 2 : Schematic procedure for the encapsulation of lipophilic substances with functional silk polypeptidess. To show the encapsulation effect, the silk capsule can optionally be stained with specific - Fig. 3 : Blue -stained beta-carotene silk capsules appear green in a skin cream. Due to the mechanical stress applied during creaming, the capsule shell is destroyed and its contents are released, resulting in a yellow color change - Fig. 4 : Microscopic image using laser scanning microscopy (LSM) of silk capsules incorporated into an emulsion. The graph illustrates the homogenous size distribution of silk microcapsules with an average diameter of approx. 17 µm. 90% of the capsules range in size between 10 and 30 µm. - Fig. 5 : Scent intensity increases upon mechanical stress of silk capsules - Fig. 6 : Schematic composition and laser scanning image of hydrophilic silk - Fig. 7 : Manufacturing process of silk capsules containing water soluble substances. The encapsulation solution, consisting of liquefied silkgel, liqiud silk solution and the substance to be encapsulated, is transformed into an oil phase in single droplets. After solidification and washing, capsules are ready for the incorporation into cosmetic products - Table 1 : Stability parameters for silk capsules En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T8phxejr8AAR-T-RQjKl2tLqvyTSojEc/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31086 [article]

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Vegan silk - How can silk be vegan ? / Nathalie Blosi in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 12 (12/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 12 (12/2019) . - p. 42-44 Titre : Vegan silk - How can silk be vegan ? : Properties and application of functional vegan silk compared to hydrolysed silk from cocoon of silkworms Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Nathalie Blosi, Auteur ; Kristin Schacht, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 42-44 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biotechnologie Fermentation Ingrédients cosmétiques Soie végétale Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Silk has historically been associated with a high status or opulence. Even today silk plays a big role in the fashion and beauty industry. Silk is due to its conditioning and nourishing effect an excellent choice for skin and hair care products. In general, silk is a protein, which is spun into fibres by e.g. silkworms, spiders, flies, scorpions and mites.The term silk was more exactly defined by Catherine Craig (scientist and expert for silks): “Silks are fibrous proteins containing highly repetitive sequences of amino acids, stored as liquid and transferred into fibers when sheared at secretion.” Silk produced by silkworms and spiders are the most investigated silk types. Silk from the cocoon of silkworms is one of the most frequently used proteins in cosmetic products. A high demand of silk for the beauty industry has become a real challenge for nature. For the production of one kilogram raw silk 6600 silkworms and approx. 200 kg mulberry tree leaves are necessary. Another promising source for silk proteins is spider silk. Spider silk proteins are known for their qualities to add smoothness to the skin and leaving a silky feeling. But the production of spider silk is limited. Due to their cannibalistic and territorial behavior, spiders are very difficult to farm.To deliver a non-animal derived silk, the research was driven to nature inspired by the superior properties of spiders’ silk. For the production of innovative vegan silk proteins, Givaudan Active Beauty has developed the Advanced Silk Technology. Silk proteins are produced in a biotechnological process using fermentation. Note de contenu : - Production process of functional vegan silk compared to animal-derived hydrolysed silk - Proeprties and application in cosmetic formulations - Fig. 1 : Comparison of the production process of vegan silk and animal-derived hydrolysed silk (from silkworm) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pAx8yfNxmG87aRDNyoeRvdhqv2_jILxd/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33688 [article]

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