[article]
| Titre : |
A new opportunity for squalane alternatives |
| Type de document : |
texte imprimé |
| Auteurs : |
Antoine Piccirilli, Auteur ; Thierry Bernoud, Auteur ; Julien Magne, Auteur |
| Année de publication : |
2017 |
| Article en page(s) : |
p. 161-166 |
| Note générale : |
Bibliogr. |
| Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
| Catégories : |
Développement durable
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Olive et constituants
Ressources renouvelables
Squalane
Squalène
|
| Index. décimale : |
668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques |
| Résumé : |
Olive squalane has seen a tremendous increase in consumption since shark liver oil was prohibited in cosmetics in Europe. Its exceptional sensoriel profile including an excellent skin biocompatibility with a moisturising effect made it a favourite with cosmetic formulators.
For structural reasons, olive squalane availability impacts negatively on its price which has increased year after year. A new and non-reversible technological trend in the olive oil industry (physical refining) combined with conjunctural phenomena such as bad climatic conditions of industrial practices in olive oil refining, and invasive insect attacks (Mosqueta oleifera infestation in Italy) reduces adequate availability of olive squalane along with the ability to offer it at a low price.
Otherwise the replacement of shark squalene, which remains the main squalane source in cosmetics worldwide, has become a priority in terms of biodiversity safeguarding in order to avoid already vulnerable shark species extinction.
In this context, innovation is needed to develop a new alternative to olive squalane which is cosmetically identical, 100% vegetable, readily available without any risk of supply shortage, ecofriendly, sustainable and cost effective to compete efficiently with shark squalane. |
| Note de contenu : |
- A brief history of squalane in cosmetics
- The crucial question of olive squalene supply
- New alternatives to olive squalane
- FIGURES : 1. Chemical structures of squalene and squalane - 2. Production process of shark squalene - 3. Production process of olive squalene - 4. Chemical and physical refining of olive oil - 5. Biomass productivity - Sugarcane vs olive vs coconut - 6. Chemical and physical properties of EcoSqualana, shark, olive and sugarcane - 7. Texturometry assessment of EcoSqualene, olive and sugarcane squalene - 8. Spreading properties assessment (goniometry) of EcoSqualene, olive and sugarcane squalene - 9. Environmental impact of EcoSqualane, olive and sugarcane squalene on global warning potential, fossil energy economy ecotoxicity
- TABLES : 1. Squalene content in natural sources - 2. Squalene in olive acids oils as co-products of chemical and physical refining - 3. Physicochemical characteristics of EcoSqualane |
| En ligne : |
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1w863_UeQ3JVGKvRDrgE7rI1oIahHstUf/view?usp=drive [...] |
| Format de la ressource électronique : |
Pdf |
| Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28356 |
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017) . - p. 161-166
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