Cosmetics for different cultures - What does this mean ? / Silke Schagen in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 4 (04/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 4 (04/2016) . - p. 2-6 Titre : Cosmetics for different cultures - What does this mean ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Silke Schagen, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 2-6 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents de blanchiment Bronzage Cosmétiques Génétique humaine Groupe ethnique Pigmentation de la peau Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The term "multicultural" describes a mixture of several different cultures, a combination of origin, socialisation, colour types, values and social norms and actual cultural expressions such as language, music and art. In history, skin colour has been associated with a culture or race. Today we know that there are no different races, but that the human skin exists in different colour shades. With the help of evolutionary research, pigmentation and solar radiation, this article explains important aspects of developing multiculturally oriented cosmetics. The main reason for the development of dark pigmented skin was the need for protection against solar radiation to prevent folic acid deficiency. The range of pigmentation that can be observed in modem humans today is the product of two opposing tendencies. Dark skin provides sun protection in the vicinity of the equator, while fair skin allows better vitamin D synthesis in regions with lower sun intensity. The article describes other differences accompanying darker or lighter pigmentation, biochemical mechanisms that play a role and skin diseases that occur more or less frequently, For skin care in different geographical regions, climate, UV radiation and the respective sense of beauty in those regions play a role. Note de contenu : - The differences in pigmentation - Pigmentation, solar radiation, and vitamins - Genetics - Diseases and pigmentation - Sunscreen and the sense of beauty - Cosmetic products that affect skin colour : Skin lightening - Skin tanning - Sunscreen En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HXF48f9YCcvtcTK6wjN18_x8gn06jW60/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26685 [article]

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Study data confirm global antipollution activity / Silke Schagen in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017) . - p. 126-128 Titre : Study data confirm global antipollution activity Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Silke Schagen, Auteur ; Sabrina Overhagen, Auteur ; Susanne Grether-Beck, Auteur ; Jean Krutmann, Auteur ; Andreas Bilstein, Auteur ; Eva Galik, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 126-128 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anti-inflammatoires Biomolécules actives Peau -- Effets de la pollution atmosphérique Peau -- Soins et hygiène Protection cutanée Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Latest scientific evidence confirms, that air pollution contributes to premature skin ageing and may even be the primary cause of ageing in some cases. Especially for particulate matter and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) negative influence on skin integrity has been shown. The natural stress-protection molecule Ectoin® is well known to strengthen the skin barrier function, to work against variable stressors such as UVA/UVB radiation, IR-A, visible light or allergens, and for its anti-inflammatory activity. This study demonstrates the global protection and prevention efficacy of Ectoin from air pollution induced skin damage. Ectoin is well suited for topical antipollution products targeting skin pigmentation and accelerated ageing as well as particle stressed and irritated skin. Note de contenu : - FIGURES : Pollution particles to induce POMC expression in keratinocytes - Pollution particles to induce MMP1 expression in keratinocytes - Pollution particles to induce Cyp1A1 expression in keratinocytes - Up-regulation of A) POMC, B) NMP1 ane C) Cym 1A1 mRNA expression in primary human keratinocytes (Asian and Caucasian) by sub-toxic amounts of ultrafine and fine carbon black particles and by two different types of exhaust particulates. 18S ribosomal RNA (rRNA) was used as a POMC overexpression. The remaining response is calculated by setting the pollution induced effect equal 100% B, C) Ectoin reduces MMP1 and Cyp 1A1 up-regulation and protects keratinocytes also from fine carbon black particle and diesel particulate matter - 2. In vivo study design, smoke application with standardised chamber system - 3. Cigarette smoke application on the volar forearm - after only 5 days of application with 1% Ectoin the pollution induced MDA content in the skin was reduced by 48% compared to the placebo treated areas. A strong anti-oxidant (gold standard) was able to reduce the pollution-induced MDA content in the skin by 27% (data not shown) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pyp0JC-G2uNE-LMat0KXsvfe-b7nMp5D/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28350 [article]

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