| Titre : |
Micellar formulation - Old wine in new skins ? |
| Type de document : |
texte imprimé |
| Auteurs : |
Kathrin Brandt, Auteur ; Joachim Venzmer, Auteur |
| Année de publication : |
2020 |
| Article en page(s) : |
p. 34-37 |
| Note générale : |
Bibliogr. |
| Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
| Catégories : |
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Douceur (toucher)
Evaluation
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Hygiène
Micelles
Peau -- Nettoyage
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
shampooings
Visage -- Soins et hygiène
|
| Index. décimale : |
668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques |
| Résumé : |
An increasing number of “micellar” formulations (e.g. micellar water, micellar shampoo, even micellar laundry detergent) has recently been introduced to the market, causing quite some confusion among both consumers and surfactant experts. Since every aqueous formulation containing surfactants above their so-called Critical Micelle Concentration (CMC) contains surfactant micelles, micellar formulations have been around basically forever. However, a simple soap solution does not get the “micellar” marketing claim because it fulfills neither the performance requirements nor today’s mildness expectations. The new feature of modern “micellar” formulations is that they are now both highly effective when it comes to solubilizing (“deep cleansing”) and – especially in case of micellar water for skin cleansing – exceptionally mild and gentle. Examples of such modern – nowadays called “micellar” – formulations for both skin and hair cleansing will be given. Contrary to some expectations, there is no direct correlation between micelle size or CMC and mildness or performance; according to latest research, another crucial parameter for mildness seems to be the charge density of the surfactant micelles. All in all, the modern “micellar” formulations should not be considered as “old wine in new skins”, but rather as “new wine in old bottles”. |
| Note de contenu : |
- Facts about micelles
- Ingredients for mild surfactant formulations
- Assessment of mildness
- Correlation of mildness with micellar properties
- Moder "micellar" skin and hair care
- Fig. 1 : Schematic representation of A) spherical micelle and B) worm-like micelle ; C) Detection of nm-size objects (micelles!) in crystal-clear aqueous surfactant solutions by laser (pointer) light scattering
- Fig. 2 : RBC assay - L/D values of typical surfactants
- Fig. 3 : Structure of rhamnolipid (INCI : Glycolipids).
- Table 1 : Guideline formulation "Classical shampoo" from the "pre-micellar" era
- Table 2 : Guideline formulation "Purifying micellar shampoo" with high cleansing efficacy and low level of surfactants
- Table 3 : Guideline formulation "Pure micellar water", pH 6.0, in vitro mildness test result (RBC test) : basically non irritant
- Table 4 : Guideline formulation "Micellar water for facial cleansing", pH 5.0, in vitro mild-ness test result (RBC test) : basically non irritant |
| En ligne : |
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aBz0LlTjWL5xjFYy_8Qfvs8ZO9okgV9y/view?usp=drive [...] |
| Format de la ressource électronique : |
Pdf |
| Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33825 |
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 3 (03/2020) . - p. 34-37
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Micellar formulation - Old wine in new skins ? in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 3 (03/2020)
