Alizarin old and new : Extraction techniques for coloration, advances in detection methods for historical textiles and novel applications as a functional dye / Khai Ly Do in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 140, N° 1 (02/2024)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 140, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 5-29 Titre : Alizarin old and new : Extraction techniques for coloration, advances in detection methods for historical textiles and novel applications as a functional dye Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Khai Ly Do, Auteur ; Asim Mushtaq, Auteur ; Feng Zhao, Auteur ; Miao Su, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 5-29 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alizarine L'alizarine est un colorant rouge d'origine végétale, extrait de la racine de la garance des teinturiers (Rubia tinctorum L.), une plante vivace de la famille des Rubiacées, autrefois largement cultivée pour la teinture qu'elle fournissait. Antimicrobiens Antioxydants Antiquités (objets anciens) -- Analyse Colorants végétaux Extraction (chimie) Protection contre le rayonnement ultraviolet Répulsifs (chimie) Teinture -- Fibres textiles Textiles et tissus -- Analyse Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : The current study provides the first review of alizarin, a natural dye, in terms of its historical aspects and its potential for functional applications in textiles. The review begins with a brief overview of natural alizarin and its occurrence in Rubiaceae family plants, followed by a discussion of alizarin acquisition from its botanical sources through conventional and advanced extraction methods. A special emphasis of this study is on the identification of natural alizarin colourants in archaeological and cultural textiles by using analytical methods based on reflectance, Raman spectroscopy, mass spectrometry and chromatographic profiles. In addition, the functional properties of natural alizarin, including its antimicrobial activity, anti-oxidant activity, insect repellence and ultraviolet protection, are analysed. This paper summarises the methods for obtaining alizarin for coloration, as well as advanced techniques for detecting alizarin in historical textiles, and potential applications of natural alizarin as a functional textile dye. Note de contenu : - HISTORY AND BOTANICAL PROVENANCE OF ALIZARIN - EXTRACTION METHODS OF ALIZARIN FROM RUBIACEAE FAMILY PLANTS : Conventional extraction methods - Advanced extraction methods - IDENTIFICATION OF ALIZARIN IN HISTORICAL TEXTILES : Reflectance-based methods - Direct analysis in real time - Surface-enhanced Raman spectroscopy - High-performance liquid chromatography - POTENTIAL APPLICATIONS OF ALIZARIN FOR FUNCTIONAL TEXTILES : Antimicrobial activity - Anti-oxidant activity - Insect-repellent activity - UV-protective activity - Table 1 : Proposed list of plants containing alizarin as a colouring compound - Table 2 : A summary of various methods for alizarin extraction from Rubiaceae family plants - Table 3 : Summary of alizarin identification in historical and archaeological textiles DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12711 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fLCZq7maaS7iQcRwPrJqlYbquisBc5TI/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40387 [article]

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Identification of early synthetic dyes in historical Chinese textiles of the late nineteenth century by high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with diode array detection and mass spectrometry / Jian Liu in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 132, N° 2 (04/2016)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 132, N° 2 (04/2016) . - p. 177-185 Titre : Identification of early synthetic dyes in historical Chinese textiles of the late nineteenth century by high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with diode array detection and mass spectrometry Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jian Liu, Auteur ; Yang Zhou, Auteur ; Feng Zhao, Auteur ; Zhiqin Peng, Auteur ; Shujuan Wang, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 177-185 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chimie textile Chimie textile -- Histoire Chromatographie en phase liquide à hautes performances Colorants -- Identification Extraction (chimie) Fibres textiles -- Analyse Spectrométrie de masse Teinture -- Fibres textiles Textiles et tissus -- Chine -- 19e siècle Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : In the present study, five classes of synthetic dyes – nitrophenol (picric acid), azo (Orange II), diarylmethane (auramine O), triarylmethine (fuchsine, methyl violet, and malachite green), and anthraquinone (alizarin) dyes – were identified in late-nineteenth-century textiles from the China National Silk Museum by high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with diode array detection and mass spectrometry. Data-dependent acquisition of tandem mass spectra provided some information not only on the molecular mass but also on the fragment ions obtained from precursor ions. These fragmentation patterns, obtained in a single experiment, proved to be useful for identification of the synthetic dyes extracted from the textile samples. In addition, it is worth noting that two anthraquinones, which are probably anthrapurpurin and flavopurpurin, and which were detected in printed cotton, can be used as the markers for distinguishing synthetic alizarin from natural alizarin. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials and methods - Extraction of dyed fibres - Equipment - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Nitrophenol dye - Azo dyes - Triarylmethine dyes - Diarylmethane dyes - Anthraquinone dyes DOI : 10.1111/cote.12205 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12205 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=25868 [article]

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