[article]
| Titre : |
A multifunctional solution for acne prone skin with a single natural active ingredient |
| Type de document : |
texte imprimé |
| Auteurs : |
Stefan Hettwer, Auteur ; Emina Besic Gyenge, Auteur ; Brigit Suter, Auteur ; Sandra Breitenbach, Auteur ; Barbara Obermayer, Auteur |
| Année de publication : |
2018 |
| Article en page(s) : |
p. 46-52 |
| Note générale : |
Bibliogr.
|
| Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
| Catégories : |
Acné L'acné (nom féminin) est une dermatose (maladie de la peau) inflammatoire des follicules pilosébacés (glandes sécrétant le sébum, à la racine des poils) avec formation de comédons.
Cette maladie de la peau est représentée dans sa forme la plus fréquente par l'acné polymorphe juvénile qui touche les adolescents, mais qui ne résume pas toutes les acnés. Il existe aussi des acnés exogènes d'origine professionnelle, médicamenteuse, cosmétique...
Biomolécules actives
Dermo-cosmétologie
Flavonoïdes
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Séborrhée
|
| Index. décimale : |
668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques |
| Résumé : |
Prevention of acne or reduction of oily skin are challenging tasks for the cosmetic industry. Salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide and retinoids are all specialized ingredients to either control corneocyte shedding, the microflora or to reprogram the cell's biochemistry. All of them are efficient specialists but no all-rounders. However, there are at least four trigger factors for the development of acne: activity of sebocytes, dihydrotestosterone level, inflammation and skin microbiota. It is difficult to develop active ingredients, which are suitable to cover all necessary needs to improve oily skin and as such, they are rare on the market. Additionally, very effective agents tend to irritate the skin and, like retinoic acid, are in most countries only available as prescriptive drugs from the dermatologist in effective concentrations.
Acne vulgaris affects about 80 % of adolescents and young adults aged 11-30 years. Also in aged people, persistent acne is common in the Western civilizations. According to "The International Dermal Institute" 40 to 55 % of the adult population in the age of 20-40 have signs of persistent acne and oily skin. It is a major problem leading to discomfort, lowered self-confidence and the tendency to distract oneself from social life. Inflammation, hormonal state, activity of sebocytes and the skin microflora have influence on the development of acne. To prevent acne formation, normalization of oily skin is key. Oily skin is mainly caused by a chronic subliminal inflammatory state of the skin leading to a subtle change of the expressome of sebocytes. This leads to excess sebum — the ideal nutrition for unwanted microbes like Propionibacterium acnes, which in turn aggravates inflammation and further increases sebum production. As such, also a disturbed microflora can trigger the appearance of acne. Additionally, the hormonal state of the skin plays an important role: excess of dihydrotestosterone, derived from testosterone or 17-hydroxyprogesterone fuels the sebum production and inflaienmation. With SEBOCLEARTM-MP (INCI : Propanediol, Bioflavonoids), all four trigger factors of acne development are controlled to reach superior efficacy on acne prone skin. |
| Note de contenu : |
- INTRODUCTION : The skin types : role of the steroid α-reductase - An elevated inflammatory state is an underlying condition of acne prone skin
- MATERIALS AND METHODS : Inhibition of the steroid α-reductase - Inhibition of arachidonic acid processing enzymes - In vivo study - Bioflavonoids reduce signs of acne (in vivo study)
- RESULTS : Bioflavonoids directly inhibit steroid α-reductase - Bioflavonoids shut down inflammation by blocking arachidonic acid processing enzymes - Maclura cochinchinensis extract reduces signs of acne (in vivo study)
- Fig. 1 : The hormonal state of our body changes during lifetime. Starting with puberty, the sex hormones estradiol and testosterone rise dramatically in females or males, respectively. While in males, testosterone declines only subtle within a second half of life, women experience a rapid drop of of estradiol during menopause. Dta compiled from
- Fig. 2 : Sebum production during lifetime. The sebum amount corresponds roughly to the sex hormone levels of androgens in males and estrogens in females. Dta compiled [5-8]
- Fig. 3 : Inhibition of arachidonic acid processing counteracts the development of acne. The inflammatory mediators prostaglandins and leukotrienes are produced by the COX-1/COX-2 and 5-LPO enzymes from arachidonic acid. Inhibition of both pathways is required to shut down inflammation and to prevent an acne prone skin condition
- Fig. 4 : Maclura cochinchinensis extract blocks the activity of steroid 5a-reductase. It prevents the generation of the highly active dihy¬drotestosterone from testosterone
- Fig. 5 : Maclura bioflavonoids inhibit both pathways of inflammatory mediator generation from arachidonic acid. At a concentration of 0.1 %, Madura cochinchinensis extract significantly inhibits the constitutively expressed COX-1, as well as the inducible COX-2, elevated in acne prone and ageing skin. Also the activity of 5-lipoxygenase (5-LOX) is almost completely blocked
- Fig. 6 :Maclura bioflavonoids decrease the number of active seba¬ceous glands. Compared to placebo, the number of active glands was significantly reduced after 84 days. Wilcoxon signed rank test
- Fig. 7 : Maclura bioflavonoids are effective against open and closed comedones. After 84 days, open and closed comedones were significantly reduced. Wilcoxon signed rank test. Statistical values in black refer to comparison with baseline while values in blue refer to comparison with placebo
- Fig. 8 : Maclura bioflavonoids reduce porphyrines. After 84 days, the porphyrins were significantly reduced proving a reduction of sebum and settlement of P. acnes
- Fig. 9 : The total lesion count is significantly reduced after application of 3 % Maclura cochinchinensis extract. After 84 days, the total lesions including inflammatory spots were reduced by 35 %. Wilcoxon signed rank test. Statistical values in black refer to comparison with baseline while values in blue refer to comparison with placebo
- Fig. 10 : Maclura bioflavonoids reduce inflammatory spots. After 84 days, red spots were significantly reduced by 22 % over baseline and placebo. Wilcoxon signed rank test. Statistical values in black refer to baseline while values in blue refer to comparison with comparison with placebo |
| En ligne : |
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1esjtx3MxNzKOyXzYjNyqPEBJB4R2piG3/view?usp=drive [...] |
| Format de la ressource électronique : |
Pdf |
| Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31329 |
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018) . - p. 46-52
[article]
|
Aller sur edunet
Accueil
A multifunctional solution for acne prone skin with a single natural active ingredient in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018)
