[article]
| Titre : |
Hair integrity protected during chemical processes |
| Type de document : |
texte imprimé |
| Auteurs : |
Ronald V. Lerum, Auteur ; Anna Croom, Auteur ; Juan Carlos Salgado |
| Année de publication : |
2018 |
| Article en page(s) : |
P. 43-47 |
| Note générale : |
Bibliogr. |
| Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
| Catégories : |
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
|
| Index. décimale : |
668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques |
| Résumé : |
Preservation of the integrity of hair fibres requires an understanding of the structural and chemical composition of hair and the chemistry involved to counteract the damaging effects of the bleaching and colour treatment processes. The hair structure is composed of the cuticle, cortex, and medulla. The cuticle is the outer protective layer of the hair fibre, which provide the sensory and shine caracteristics of hair. The cuticles overlap giving the appearance similar to roof shingles, thereby protecting the hair from chemical, physical and environmental tratments. The cortex is the major component of the hair and is responsible for the mechanical strength and is responsible for the pigment colour of hair. The innermost layer is the medulla, which may be present or absent throughout the hair fibre.
The structural integrity of hair is due to hair's specific chemical composition. The hair is primarily composed of proteins, lipids and water. Human hair is composed of 65-95% protein, which influence hair textures such as curly, wavy, kinky or straight. The main component of human hair is keratin proteins, which are complex natural compounds that contribute to its physicochemicals properties. Human hair keratin is unique to other types of keratin because of its higher content of cystein residues relative to skin keratin (7.6% and 2.9% respectively. A compositional increase of cysteine residues in hair leads to a higher amount of inter- and intra- molecular disulfide linkages, translating to a durable structure due to covalent bonds. Hair is also comprised of 1-9% lipids, which contribute to enhanced conditioning properties, such as flexibility, surface gloss and lubricity of hair. Lipids in the internal part of the hair provide structural reinforcement and rigidity. Water is another major component that can be found up to 32% by weight of hair. Water supports the formation of a network of hydrogen bonds with proteins, thereby influencing the tensile strength, swelling and shape of hair, as well as, the formation of salt-bridges. |
| Note de contenu : |
- Hair bleaching (in vitro test)
- Enhanced colour saturation during colour tratment
- Anti-breakage after grooming
- Improved tensile strength of hair with functionalised dimethicone during the bleaching process
- Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) displays hair fibre surface integrity
- Confirmation of the particle size of the microemulsion and penetration ability |
| En ligne : |
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BIQvIDEqjTu8p3LvnGeB7avv3q42qE79/view?usp=drive [...] |
| Format de la ressource électronique : |
Pdf |
| Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31132 |
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018) . - P. 43-47
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Hair integrity protected during chemical processes in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018)
