Syndet cleansing bars : the better 'soap' ? / Alexander T. Wagner in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019) . - p. 111-114 Titre : Syndet cleansing bars : the better 'soap' ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Alexander T. Wagner, Auteur ; Torsten Krohn, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 111-114 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Lingettes -- Emploi en cosmétologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits nettoyants Savon Solutions aqueuses (chimie) Surfactants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Flashback to the 1930s: "The principal object of the invention is to provide a soap composition which is totally stable in the presence of hard water, strongly alkaline or acid waters, producing no insoluble precipitates whatever".' This fundamental statement was made by Heinrich Bertsch in his patent "Soap Preparation". It proves that already more than 80 years ago proposais were made to overcome a well-known drawback of classical soaps: Precipitation in water. There are two chemical reactions of soaps - the alkali salts of fatty acids - (Fig 1) which cause the precipitates. Both of them "knock-out" typical surfactant properties like cleansing and foaming. Firstly, the reaction of soaps with magnesium and particularly calcium ions in hard water leads to water-insoluble precipitates (lime soap). Lime soap is difficuit to remove from hard surfaces like wash basins. Secondly, even at neutral pH conditions, soaps to a great extent become fatty acids by protonation (Fig 2). Then they are (nearly) water-insoluble. This chemical reaction is the background of the statement given above:' The instability of pure soaps in 'acid waters'. The protonation is directly linked to the creation of an alkaline solution (Fig 2) and leads to a pH of soap solutions of about 9 —11. For cosmetic applications this behaviour is considered the major drawback in using solid soap bars, as the pH of the skin is about 5.0 to 5.5. It is easily understandable that skin cleansing in a non-natural pH-range may stress the skin. Therefore, for cosmetic applications there is a trend for pH-skin neutral products, which protect the skin by not damaging the natural acid layer. In this article we present some Insider'-tricks to create solid cleansing bars with neutral or even skin-neutral pH-values when dissolved in water. Note de contenu : - Focus on soaps in aqueous solutions - Sulfate surfactants : as co-surfactants for 'combo bars' - Sulfonate surfactants : as soap replacement for 'syndet bars' - Composition of solid cleansing bars : syndets versus soaps - Aesthetic aspects - Tailor-made products - Amino acid surfactants - carboxylate-based alternatives to soaps ? - A comeback of solid cleansing bars in Europe ? - Fig. 1 : Soap (sodium laurate) - Fig. 2 : Protonation of soaps : creating fatty acids and an alkaline solution (OH-) - Fig. 3 : Sodium fatty alcohol sulfate - Fig. 4 : Sulfonate surfactants : disodium alkyl sulfo sucinate and sodium acyl isethionate - Fig. 5 : Transparent solid cleansing bars - Fig. 6 : Zschimmer & Schwarz raw material for producing solid cleansing bars - Fig. 7 : Amino acid-based surfactants : Sodium acyl sarcosinate and sodium acyl glutamate - Fig. 8 : Zetesap-Types : "exceptionally creamy foam" En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Q2UHFg-NAgJmheFJggsgOZnMMfJBZjSd/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32250 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
20796	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Using liquid crystals in cleansing formulations / Ulrike Marx in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 1, N° 1 (09/2008)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 1, N° 1 (09/2008) . - p. 67-69 Titre : Using liquid crystals in cleansing formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ulrike Marx, Auteur ; Torsten Krohn, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 67-69 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The development of personal wash formulations made a dramatic step forward during recent years. In the last century personal wash was just a step of cleaning the skin and not really seen as being a part of body care. Mildness has been an issue but more or less just under the aspect of skin irritation via protein denaturation. Moreover in focus are moisturising properties and influence on trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). The main point is that beside mildness of cleaning the after treatment was the one seen as the “real” skin care, the repair and care function against influences of the environment and age, and damage via cleansing processes. The latter may not have been considered as such, because of the point that detailed information about structures of the skin and influences on the skin and its functions were not known that much in detail. Today we know that one of the very important points is to respect the skin’s own protective function. We know that water loss of the skin does not only mean dry skin, but may also influence skin metabolism, which may be slower in a less moisturised tissue. This can lead to increased ageing of the skin. Note de contenu : - New interpretation - Future trend En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uNyLPnOKgRkR3zHEAlYi304t_pclhzAi/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=22096 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
16530	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

---

1 (1 - 2 / 2)