Effect of the behenyl trimethyl ammonium counterion on the lamellar gel property / Toshiyuki Iwata in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 16, N° 4 (10-11-12/2013)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 16, N° 4 (10-11-12/2013) . - p. 249-254 Titre : Effect of the behenyl trimethyl ammonium counterion on the lamellar gel property Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Toshiyuki Iwata, Auteur ; Kenji Aramaki, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 249-254 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Chlorure de béhényl triméthylammonium Composés lamellaires Composites Conditionnement Cosmétiques Couches minces multicouches Friction humide Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie Méthylsulfate de behenyl triméthylammonium Rayons X -- Diffusion Rhéologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A gel network made of behenyl trimethyl ammonium methylsulfate (BTAMS) and its chloride version (BTAC) were compared for their colloidal structure, rheological properties and wet friction. The hair conditioners made of these gel networks were evaluated by a consumer panel for wet conditioning performance. The BTAMS gel network had a higher G', G'' and σ950 than the BTAC gel network. The rheology of the BTAMS gel network was more responsive to the concentration of the surfactant and fatty alcohols due to the bulk water phase outside the BTAMS lamellar gel phase. While the BTAC gel network swells accordingly depending on the concentration, nos sign of a bulk water phase was found. Despite the presence of a bulk water phase, the BTAMS lamellar gel was much stiffer than the BTAC lamellar gel, thus contributing to the higher G', G'' and sigma950, and making it difficult to break under conditions of stress (rinsing), which leads to a lower wet friction during rinsing that is noticeable to the consumer. The lower wet friction was not due to greater depostion of conditioning ingredients. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials and formulation - Rheology - Small and wide angle X-ray scattering - Hair swatch preparation - Wet friction - Consumer panel test - RESULT AND DISCUSSION : Rheology - Lamellar gel structure -Wet friction Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=20155 [article]

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Gel microemulsions with polyoxyethylene-type surfactant mixture and their application as a makeup remover / Miho Kamada in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 16, N° 4 (10-11-12/2013)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 16, N° 4 (10-11-12/2013) . - p. 241-247 Titre : Gel microemulsions with polyoxyethylene-type surfactant mixture and their application as a makeup remover Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Miho Kamada, Auteur ; Tetsuro Iwanaga, Auteur ; Kenji Aramaki, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 241-247 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cristaux liquides Démaquillants Diagrammes de phases Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie Huile de palme et constituants Huile de ricin et constituants Microémulsions Polyéthylène glycol Rhéologie Solubilisation Surfactants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Microemulsions generally have low viscosities. We intended to develop a microemulsion with a gelatinous property for applications as a makeup remover. In a poly (oxyethylene)(50) hydrogenated castor oil isostearate (HCO(EO50)IS) in an oil (ethylhexylpalmitate)/water system, microemulsions were formed only in a narrow range. When water was replaced with 70 wt% glycerol aq., the region where microemulsions could be formed was expanded, and gel microemulsions were formed in compositions containing large amounts of oils. Furthermore, when part of the HCO(EO50)IS was replaced with poly(oxyethylene)(5)glyceryl monoisosterate (GIS(EO5)), the microemulsion region spread to 90 wt% of oil. The gel microemulsions were characterized by a large degree of water solubilization, and obtained good spreadability and smoothness in sensory evaluations and showed no decrease in cleansing ability. Note de contenu : - Experimental - Materials - Methods - Phase diagram determination - Rheological measurements - Sensory panel test - "In vitro" evaluation of cleansing ability - Result and discussion - Phase behavior of a water/glycerol/HCO(EO50)IS/EHP system - Effect of added co-surfactants - Effect of water solubilization on properties of the gel microemulsion Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=20153 [article]

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