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Crafting superior dress shoes : Technical advancements in utilizing South African ostrich leg skins in Ethiopia / R. Karthikeyan in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CXIX, N° 10 (10/2024)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA) > Vol. CXIX, N° 10 (10/2024) . - p. 423-437 Titre : Crafting superior dress shoes : Technical advancements in utilizing South African ostrich leg skins in Ethiopia Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : R. Karthikeyan, Auteur ; Mulugeta Adugna, Auteur ; Adem Abebe, Auteur ; Tamrat Tesfaye, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 423-437 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Américain (ame) Catégories : Caractérisation Chaussures Cuirs et peaux -- Analyse Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés physiques Cuirs et peaux d'autruches Cuirs et peaux de pattes d'autruches Post-tannage Prétannage Procédés de fabrication Stabilité thermique Tannage au chrome Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : This study explores the utilization of African ostrich leg skins, sourced from South Africa, in the production of high-quality leather footwear in Ethiopia. It begins with a thorough analysis of the raw materials, particularly their fat and protein contents, while also evaluating the most effective tanning methods. The research focuses on the impact of chrome and semi-chrome tanning on the leather’s physical and structural qualities, highlighting its unique texture and durability. Through comprehensive trials conducted in Ethiopia, the study examines the leather's thermal stability, fiber structure, and performance metrics. The results reveal that chrome tanning is better suited for producing footwear, as it enhances leather strength and yields leather with minimal stretch, making it ideal for crafting durable upper shoe components. On the other hand, semi-chrome tanning, as evidenced by scanning electron microscopy, yields softer leather with better fiber separation, suitable for luxury leather bags' decorative features. The findings demonstrate that specialized tanning techniques can enhance both the aesthetic and functional attributes of ostrich leg leather, promoting its inclusion in high-end leather products. This approach not only broadens the variety of materials for the Ethiopian leather industry but also supports economic growth and market expansion through sustainable practices and product innovation. Note de contenu : - METHODOLOGY : - Design - Material cutting - Preparation and stitching (closing) - Lasting - Sole attachment - Finishing and packing - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : - Transformation of ostrich leg skins into high-end fashionable footwear - Fat and protein content in ostrich leg skins - DSC profile of tanned ostrich leg leather - Effect of tanning system on the fiber structure of ostrich leg leather - Physical properties of ostrich leg leather - General features of ostrich leg leather – Visual assessment - Table 1 : Pre-tanning process details of ostrich leg skins - Table 2 : Ostrich leg tanning trials - Table 3 : Post tanning procedure for ostrich leg leather - Table 4 : Raw materials used in footwear development - Table 5 : Comparative performance metrics of ostrich leg leather samples DOI : https://doi.org/10.34314/5ta6nw38 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jSoVt3R7bfpZNsNv_vVC7jmJ2Bw6R64B/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41535 [article]

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Influence of outsole structures on foot loading and gait stability - Solution for comfort and stability of leather high heels / Yihong Zhao in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CXIX, N° 10 (10/2024)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA) > Vol. CXIX, N° 10 (10/2024) . - p. 438-447 Titre : Influence of outsole structures on foot loading and gait stability - Solution for comfort and stability of leather high heels Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Yihong Zhao, Auteur ; Shiyang Yan, Auteur ; Wei Wang, Auteur ; Bolin Sun, Auteur ; Bi Shi, Auteur ; Luming Yang, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 438-447 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Américain (ame) Catégories : Chaussure à talon Chaussures -- Conception et construction Confort Cuir Semelle extérieure Talon (chaussure) Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : As the downstream products most relevant to the leather industry, leather shoes perform well in the global market. Consumers have put forward high requirements for the comfort and safety of leather shoes in recent years, especially for high heels, whose unique outsole structure often causes foot overloading. The outsole structure varies in ground-contacted mode and heel base size, and plays a decisive role in its function, affecting gait patterns. This study aimed to investigate differences in foot loading and gait stability induced by different outsole structures, at two typical heel heights. Six pairs of customized high heels (3 outsole structures × 2 heel heights) were tested on eighteen healthy females while walking by the Novel Pedar-X in-shoe plantar pressure system. Taking the thick high heels for the intermediate control group, the main effects of the outsole structures and the heel heights, and their interactions on the plantar pressures were analyzed by Two-way repeated ANOVAs. The center of pressure displacements and velocities were calculated throughout the whole stance phase. The results indicated that the whole ground-contacted mode of the outsole displayed better stability in the medial-lateral direction in the early stance phase but may increase the risk of hallux valgus because of the elevated load there. On the contrary, the smaller heel base size exhibited poorer stability in the medial-lateral direction in the early stance phase and would increase forefoot loading. The response of gait characteristics to heel height change is more prominent, which could cause a more vulnerable gait posture. The results could be relevant to improving high-heel functional design, positively motivating the transformation and upgrading of the leather shoe industry. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : - Participants - Customized leather shoes - Data acquisition - Data analysis for plantar pressure - Data analysis for COP trajectories - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : - Effects of ground-contacted modes of the outsole on foot loading patterns - The effects of heel base size on foot loading patterns - The interaction effects of heel heights and ground-contacted modes on foot loading patterns - The interaction effect of heel height and heel base size on the loading patterns - The effects of ground-contacted mode and heel base size on gait stability - Table 1 : Differences between HMF and HFL in maximum forces and force-time integrals - Table 2 : Differences between HFS and HFL in maximum forces and force-time integrals DOI : https://doi.org/10.34314/wm9rqm56 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XErgWXcS1TB7M-23bieSwL1M97Bhe_m0/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41536 [article]

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Soft and non-sticky water-based PUA composite for soft leather finishing / Yuqi Lin in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CXIX, N° 10 (10/2024)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA) > Vol. CXIX, N° 10 (10/2024) . - p. 448-458 Titre : Soft and non-sticky water-based PUA composite for soft leather finishing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Yuqi Lin, Auteur ; Haihang Luo, Auteur ; Heng Li, Auteur ; Huan Wei, Auteur ; Aisong Yao, Auteur ; Decheng HUa, Auteur ; Yi Chen, Auteur ; Haojun Fan, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 448-458 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Américain (ame) Catégories : Caractérisation Cuirs et peaux -- Finition Dispersions et suspensions Formulation (Génie chimique) Hydrophobie Polyacryliques Polymères en émulsion Polyuréthanes Résistance à l'hydrolyse Réticulants Revêtements anti-adhésion Souplesse (mécanique) Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : A soft but non-sticking composite resin, built on waterbased polyurethane (WPU) and polyacrylic resin (PA) with interpenetrating network (IPN) structures was prepared. Specifically, polyacrylic resin emulsions with different cross-linking agents (glycerol methacrylate (GMA), vinyltrimethoxysilane (KH171)) were fabricated first and used as mother liquor, then waterborne polyurethane pre-polymer modified by polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) to get a hydrophobic surface was dispersed into PA, after post-chain-extension by poly(ether-amine) (D-230) and N-β-(aminoethyl)-γ-aminopropyl methyl dimethoxy silane (KH-602), two kinds of WPU/PA (WPUA) interpenetrating network emulsions were achieved. Thermodynamic compatibility, mechanical properties, anti-sticking performance, and other properties such as glass transition temperature and hydrolysis resistance of WPUAs were investigated in detail. The as-prepared WPUAs exhibits a glass transition temperature close to each other, a wide latex particle size distribution, high light transmittance, and enhanced hydrolysis resistance, indicating the formation of interpenetrating and crosslinking structures between the two components. Benefiting from two polymer chains intertwining and flexible cross-linking, WPUA films exhibited high elasticity (>800%) and low modulus at 100% tension (0.4 MPa), showing desirable flexibility. Under 80°C and 2 kg hot pressing, the leather coating can be easily peeled off, showing excellent anti-sticky properties Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : - Materials - Preparation of Polyacrylic Resin Emulsions - Preparation of the WPU emulsions - Preparation of the WPUA emulsions - Preparation of WPU, PA, and WPUA films and coating - Characterization - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : - Structural design of WPU and PA - Elemental and Structural Analysis of Composite - Compatibility of the IPN composites - Hydrophobicity and anti-hydrolysis of WPUA - Soft and anti-sticking properties of the coating - Table 1 : Formulation of WPUA preparation - Table 2 : Degree of damage and adhesion on the specimen surface and anti-sticking level DOI : https://doi.org/10.34314/k5dnwk12 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oAk-NVJDSZG-CIbin0InbE6m4nJgHMt4/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41537 [article]

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