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Biogenic leathers / Karl Flowers in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 59 (05-06/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 59 (05-06/2023) . - p. 32-34 Titre : Biogenic leathers Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Karl Flowers, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 32-34 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biosynthèse Cuir Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Biogenic means something that is produced or brought about by the action of living organisms. Trees, plants, bacteria, fungi and cows are all examples of organisms that could be said to be producers of biogenic products. The separation of biogenic meat from a biogenic hide is a culmination of the livestock farming and it is at this point that the marketing of a unique material as a biogenic material must be remembered. It is not only a biogenic material, but it is a material that should be used (al long as humans consume meat). Note de contenu : - Is it all biogenic ? - Testing biogenic content - Biogenic seating En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/13feOVLOxk-yefxaUtiVU86kvgftK8rab/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39544 [article]

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Through the looking glass (part 2) / Karl Flowers in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 59 (05-06/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 59 (05-06/2023) . - p. 37-40 Titre : Through the looking glass (part 2) Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Karl Flowers, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 37-40 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux Cuirs et peaux -- Industrie et commerce Durée de vie (Ingénierie) Traçabilité Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : In part 1 (published in ILM march/april 2023, page 67), the authors discussed how the implementation of leather traceability would take place in the farm to the end of leather finishing and could feasibility and practically be implemented. Compared with most other theoretical discussions on the topic, the first part sought to allow farmers, abattoirs and tanneries to see how traceability needed to be considered when implementing. The managers decide the why and the frontline staff have to take the ideas and see if they can realistically and economically be installed. The last article ended on discussing the tools that assisted in tanneries to ensure that they identified hides (or batches) collected and tracked data on those identifiable material and monitored their progress against environmental, social and governance (ESG) sustainability credentials. Note de contenu : - Traders and agents (intermediate) - Product manufacturing - Retail and post detail - End-of-life and circular product passports - Fig. 1 : The sustainable Leather Foundation's swing tag to inform consumers (with kind permission from the SLF) - Fig. 2 : The EU digital passport concept has been launched and implementation is underway En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YblO4MVNZQnaM2uligC-l9_uUfjFzPt_/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39545 [article]

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• Through the looking glass (Part 1) / Karl Flowers in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 58 (03-04/2023)

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Stepping up a gear at Pasubio / Tom Hogarth in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 59 (05-06/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 59 (05-06/2023) . - p. 42-45 Titre : Stepping up a gear at Pasubio Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Tom Hogarth, Auteur ; Marco Crola, Personne interviewée ; Claudio Azzaretto, Personne interviewée Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 42-45 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuir -- Suppression ou remplacement Cuir dans les automobiles Cuirs et peaux -- Industrie et commerce -- Italie Développement durable Tannage -- Aspect de l'environnement Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : We discusses of Italian automotive leather maker Conceria Pasubio about the company's approach to sustainable tanning in the automotive sector. Note de contenu : - New generation tannages - The threat of alternative materials En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1a9T1YQ3MRSm4uPDSB80Gu-94M012hx36/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39546 [article]

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Leather drying and conditioning / Karl Flowers in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 59 (05-06/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 59 (05-06/2023) . - p. 60-61 Titre : Leather drying and conditioning Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Karl Flowers, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 60-61 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuir -- Séchage Séchoirs Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : A t the close of the wet-end processing stage of leather making, the leather must be taken through a drying operation that sets the condition of the final article and determines many of the final properties. Many leathers that were well-made in the tanning drum through carefully selected chemistry are ruined in the drying operation because the tanner did not have the best methods (or machinery) for drying and conditioning. Leather can go through a physical squeezing operation that mechanically removes water prior to drying. These wringing operations are called sammying, setting or sammy/setting and can remove bulkwater found between the fibres, theoretically speeding up the drying process. Extensive work at Fratelli Carlessi has shown that modem toggling processes can eliminate the water removal stage prior to drying - saving time and money. The drying machine then removes the water in two practical steps: the first phase, removing surface bulk water, and a second phase, the removal of bulkwater and some fibre associated water. Over-drying (a third phase) is avoided through careful control of the end of the drying with a follow-up process called conditioning. Drying and conditioning can be done simultaneously without the need fora separate drying if the moisture control during the process is high. The leather fibres will be drawn together as the water is removed and they may stick together, resulting in a stiff leather that will need to be mechanically softened to separate the fibres. Again, careful drying and simultaneous conditioning can result in a leather that needs less mechanical softening. In fact, in the second phase of drying, the careful use of humidity can not only help prevent fibre sticking but it can prevent the development of poor looseness that is often seen during uncontrolled drying of wet-white leathers. Note de contenu : - Sustainable drying - Remanufacturing older drying machines - Looking forward - Fig. 1 : Cell rotary conditioning (CRC) drying - Fig. 2 : A reconditioned Fratelli Carlessi machine En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XJdWw881qoR7j5i_q7vFMBJxAoKtJigm/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39547 [article]

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