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Tackling deforestation in the Amazon biome / Abigail Clare in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 53 (05-06/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 53 (05-06/2022) . - p. 18-19 Titre : Tackling deforestation in the Amazon biome Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Abigail Clare, Auteur ; Karl Flowers, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 18-19 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Approvisionnement dans l'entreprise Chaine logistique Cuirs et peaux -- Industrie -- Aspect de l'environnement Cuirs et peaux -- Industrie -- Brésil Déforestation Traçabilité Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : The cattle population in Brazil exceeds 200 million, with over 70 million located in the Amazon biome. Approximately 70% of cleared areas in the Amazon house cattle and the population has been reported to be increasing in recent years. Agriculture is a major driver of Brazil's economy and cattle play a vital role, acting as a key source of revenue for communities in those areas. As a by-product of the meat industry, leather can originate from animais reared in these regions. Due to its significant cattle herd, Brazil is a key source of global rawhides.. Deforestation in the Amazon has also been increasing over the last decade, mainly due to the economic reliance on commodities produced in this area. Organisations need to work with their supply chains and act now to prevent the Amazon from reaching its tipping point for recovery. The rise in Amazon deforestation is causing the leather industry to face increasing pressure to ensure its supply chain does not contain products linked to deforestation. Although leather is a by-product and, therefore, is not the primary driver of deforestation, the industry is in a prime position to work with supply chains to encourage best practices while maintaining Brazil's social-economic priorities. Note de contenu : - Role of tanneries - Supply chain mapping - Traceability tools - Scaling up - A 'talking shop' - Fig. 1 : Brazil is a key source of raw hides globally, exporting over 80 % - Fig. 2 : Area of land deforested in the Amazon biome from 2004-2020 - Fig. 3 : A visual representation of how tanneries can ensure they are not linked to areas of deforestation - Fig. 4 : Assessment of incoming and outgoing traceability by tanneries En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1S1kTIGRDZUKTEX3b1oFdjMXXlIkBzcWc/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37591 [article]

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Leather, WWF and deforestation / Mauricio Bauer in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 53 (05-06/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 53 (05-06/2022) . - p. 20-22 Titre : Leather, WWF and deforestation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Mauricio Bauer, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 20-22 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Industrie -- Aspect de l'environnement Déforestation Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Circularity has gained a lot of traction recently, leading companies to begin to consider whole product lifecycles and how their impacts are interrelated, rather than a product in isolation. Leather is steeped in circularity and indeed is one of the oldest forms of upcycling, yet lately has been viewed negatively for its environmental impacts due to its relationship with beef production and deforestation. Note de contenu : - By-product vs deforestation driver - Deforestation-free legislation - Taking action En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_pxBoO49G8586GKngGipG3TcQVgcD1DM/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37592 [article]

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Leather and deforestation / Gert van der Bijl in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 53 (05-06/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 53 (05-06/2022) . - p. 23 Titre : Leather and deforestation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gert van der Bijl, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 23 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Industrie -- Aspect de l'environnement Cuirs et peaux -- Industrie -- Brésil Déforestation Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : In December 2021, Vogue published an article titled; Is Your Leather Bag Causing Deforestation in the Amazon Rainfore,st?They concluded that there is a high risk that leather sourced by many brands is contributing to deforestation. Much publicity around deforestation is focused on palm oil and soy, but there is no doubt that cattle is the number one driver of global deforestation. Note de contenu : - Link with deforestation - EU proposals - Sourcing from Brazil En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1G25W6fjBxWgIvLhpCu8LEOsUticmChQL/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37593 [article]

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Radiocarbon as a measure of quantification of the circularity of materials / Gustavo Adriàn Defeo in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 53 (05-06/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 53 (05-06/2022) . - p. 44-48 Titre : Radiocarbon as a measure of quantification of the circularity of materials Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gustavo Adriàn Defeo, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 44-48 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse quantitative (chimie) Carbone Carbone 14 Cuir Dioxyde de carbone Etudes comparatives Matières plastiques Produits vegan Radiocarbone Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : CEC of Italy based Ars Tinctoria, discusses the origin and resuits of the company's investigation into the proportions of fossil and bioDased carbon contents in materials, both genuine leather and alternatives including so-called 'vegan' materials. Note de contenu : - Bioeconomy - Plastic pollution - European Commission Green Deal - Biobased and mineral organic carbon - Biobased carbon quantification - Intrinsic CO2 contribution of a material - Measuring biobased carbon equivalents in organic materials - Fig. 1 : The numbers of plastics - Fig. 2 : 14C quantification in leather and alternative materials - Fig. 3 : Upcycling leather as fertilizer - Fig. 4 : Intrinsic emission of CO2 in 100% bio-based materials En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SSc5aN0K9AogT3ACDWrEiEOcORuIOFfF/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37594 [article]

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Auto interior material types / Abigail Clare in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 53 (05-06/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 53 (05-06/2022) . - p. 50-51 Titre : Auto interior material types Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Abigail Clare, Auteur ; Karl Flowers, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 50-51 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Aniline Automobiles -- Habitacles Cuir dans les automobiles Cuirs et peaux -- Finition Pigments Revêtements protecteurs Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Materials for car interiors present several options, ranging from non-renewable, synthetic textiles to more renewable options. As a meat industry by-product, leather offers an abundant and renewable choice while upcycling a global industry waste. Traditionally used in vehicle interiors, various types of leather continue to be applied today to upholster seats, dashboards, steering wheels, armrests, headrests and door panels. Note de contenu : - Aniline leather - Semi-aniline leather - Pigmented/protected leather - Alternative materials for car interiors - Fig. 1 : The concept of aniline leather - Fig. 2 : The concept of semi-aniline leather - Fig. 3 : The concept of pigmented leather - Fig. 4 : Polymeric leather alternative materials can crack when used in automotive interiors En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1COVrSqDfDVKygjHQkFOhI-q45okWxEYR/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37595 [article]

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Environmental credentials of vehicles / Abigail Clare in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 53 (05-06/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 53 (05-06/2022) . - p. 52-54 Titre : Environmental credentials of vehicles Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Abigail Clare, Auteur ; Karl Flowers, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 52-54 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Automobiles -- Industrie et Commerce -- Aspect de l'environnement Cuir dans les automobiles Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés physiques Déchets -- Valorisation Durée de vie (Ingénierie) Normalisation Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : When choosing a car, its environmental credentials go much further than just opting for electric power. People are becoming more conscious about sustainability and many drivers are now looking at the whole-Iife sustainability of their vehicles (see Figure 1). Whole-life sustainability involves assessing how much of the vehicle can be recycled and what proportion of materials used to build it are made from circular materials. However, sustainability commitments go beyond the consumer. Drive Sustainability is a global partnership between 10 leading automotive manufacturers, including BMW Group, Mercedes¬Benz Group, Ford, Honda, Jaguar Land Rover, Scania CV AB, Toyota Motor Europe, Volkswagen Group, Volvo Cars and Volvo Group. The partnership aimed to bring a focus on sourcing sustainable materials in automotive supply chains by assessing material function, future supply, end-of-life recycling rate and environmental risks. Despite being a traditional upholstery covering, leather is sometimes avoided by buyers due to ethical reasons of some consumers. As a long-lived hard-wearing material, leather outperforms many other fabrics and, by knowing where the leather originates from and exactly how it is produced, it can be incorporated into vehicles to massively improve the vehicle's sustainability credentials. Note de contenu : - Automotive leather properties - Automotive leather standards - Upcycling of waste - Sustainability at end-of-life - Sustainable automotive leather processing - Fig. 1 : The life cycle of a vehicle - Fig. 2 : The structure of a collagen fibre that Forms the basis o an animal skin - Fig. 3 : Leather offers improved flame retardancy compared to synthetics - Fig. 4 : Compostable leather in an industrial composting lab-scale test En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LmUnL9CqXZhuNTo3cNHaGfrWXgl4TkaH/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37596 [article]

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Super thin auto finishes / Karl Flowers in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 53 (05-06/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 53 (05-06/2022) . - p. 56-57 Titre : Super thin auto finishes Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Karl Flowers, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 56-57 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Couches minces Cuirs et peaux -- Finition Enduction Matériaux -- Epaisseur Revêtements organiques Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : For a leather to be classified as genuine, the finish thickness requirement must be under 0.15 mm or 150 pm. For many years, finishers have been able to meet this requirement relatively easily and the market has had clarity as to the definition of coated leathers (>0.15 mm) and genuine leather. A finish thickness of around 0.1-0.12 mm has been able to meet most of the heavy-duty requirements of modem automotive finishes. The mechanical requirements include : - Finish flexibility - Finish adhesion (thicker finishes struggle here) - Finish rubfastness - Finish abrasion and scuff resistance. The finish must also cover the underlying leather surface for the aesthetic of colour modification effects as the crust colour may not be exactly the correct colour required. The colour may also not be uniformly even, and a surface coating will make it so. The leather may also contain natural animal signatures that will be covered to give a smooth "unblemished" surface with the illusion that the leather was never marked in the first place. These are the main considerations that a finisher will have in designing their formulation and, up until recently, the standard automotive finish was able to achieve this. Note de contenu : - Fifty microns - Stripped down - Covering - Performance - Fig. 1 : The finish requirements of the finish for genuine leather - Fig. 2 : The cutting by-product quantity will increase as covering goes down - Fig. 3 : Here, beam theory shows how thinner materials are less prone to looseness because less compaction/extension is required En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gBsolFz7Wu7zF2uhAp9_H71O8V1OKoU1/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37597 [article]

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Cutting by-products from car leathers / Karl Flowers in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 53 (05-06/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 53 (05-06/2022) . - p. 60-62 Titre : Cutting by-products from car leathers Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Karl Flowers, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 60-62 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Coupe Cuir -- Déchets Cuir dans les automobiles Cuirs et peaux -- Déchets -- Recyclage Géométrisation Recyclage organique Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : It is false to believe that manufacturing anything results in zero waste - unless by "zero" what you mean is when the waste can enter something called its end-of-waste cycle. These waste products can be modified by producers into valuable co-products (non-determining in the case of leather). Likewise, a company cutting car seats and trim could develop the mentality that there is the main leather cut part product and then the cutting co-products (which will also be non-determining). This is the mentality of companies that are using the geometrisation of leather as a process design focused way of seeing the cattle hide in two parts - the leather main product and its by-products ; another name for non-determining co-product. Geometrisation, such as Kind Leather from JBS Couros for example, removes leather by-products as early in the process as possible, before they have changed into a form that determines how producers can use them. Geometrisation is the design of a process that tries to maximise profit from all the input mass entering a cycle. Trimmings constitute a significant part of the process, with typically a tannery processing from raw to finished producing a little more than 10% - 129kg trimmings out of 1100 kgs of unsalted hide. A tannery geometrising will negate that downstream trimming by-product and those trimmings can enter the food industry as a co-product - increasing value. Note de contenu : - Collaboration - Cutting plants - Organic recycling - Fig. 1 : Geometrisation of the hide - economising - Fig. 2 : Upcycling of leather trimmings to trinkets - Fig. 3 : Processing of end-of-life leather and leather cutting waste into composite ingredients that can be used in recycled automotive parts En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1j34zj6EhoXxO2k4bU3ctVMNtRw7Mbh-Q/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37598 [article]

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