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Automated grading with Al and traceability / Neil Martin in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 49 (09-10/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 49 (09-10/2021) . - p. 20-21 Titre : Automated grading with Al and traceability Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Neil Martin, Personne interviewée Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 20-21 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Automatisation Cuirs et peaux Cuirs et peaux -- Défauts Détection de défauts (Ingénierie) Etalonnage Qualité -- Contrôle Traçabilité Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Mindhive is a tech company in New Zealand that discovered the power of AI in detecting defects in leather hides seven years ago. Its Model V Grading is flow quickly growing in popularity among tanneries as well as shoe and automotive manufacturers. Industry requests have since led to the company also developing a robust traceability solution that is deployable in tanneries of any size. This enables tanners to achieve a key sustainability goal. But Leathertracer, as the solution is called, has another significant advantage. Mindhive's CEO Neil Martin explains its impact. Note de contenu : - Many tanneries have played with various approaches to achieve traceability. Some use a documented system; others are experimenting with tattooed ID's. What makes Mindhive's Leathertracer unique ? - What about your other solution, Model V Grading: artificial intelligence to detect defects? How can you guarantee this solution could do as good a job as a 'master grader' with 30+ years' experience ? - Ok, but artificial intelligence is a very new, expensive technology. How can tanners deploy this as a commercially advantageous business case for their tannery ? - And what is the benefit of deploying both solutions together ? - What were the responses and uptake of these solutions to date ? En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JE0HkhbbJuzklQWupDzzCR_c9Dc787RA/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36189 [article]

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Deforestation and biodiversity in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 49 (09-10/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 49 (09-10/2021) . - p. 26-28 Titre : Deforestation and biodiversity Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 26-28 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Bovin -- Elevage Chaine logistique Cuirs et peaux -- Industrie -- Aspect de l'environnement Déforestation Diversité biologique Traçabilité Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Biodiversity, farming and animal welfare are critical in assessing the sustainability of leather supply chains. Deforestation remains a high-profile challenge for the leather industry - existing in some areas due to land-use change, agriculture expansion and livestock grazing. Sourced from the hides/skins of livestock, leather is a by-product of the meat industry and, without livestock farming, it would not exist. Sustainability challenges relating to cattle farming are widely reported, resulting in increased consumer demand for companies to tacIde risks in their supply chains. Farming practices and cattle grazing can both positively and negatively impact biodiversity. Negative biodiversity impacts may result from land conversion, land degradation and loss of habitat, whereas positive effects may arise through adequate soil management and reducing the dominance of the most competitive species, thus allowing alternative species to become established. The implementation of sustainable practices throughout the supply chain is crucial to the global leather industry, which can play a key role in sustainable production, preventing overexploitation of resources and providing benefits to social communities. Concerns over cattle farming sustainability have increased the demand for transparent supply chains. Traceability - the ability to trace the movement of an asset throughout an extended supply chain across organisations - plays a critical role in this process, reassuring consumers that their products are ethically sourced. Note de contenu : - Traceabiity - Deforestation - Biodiversity - Fig. 1 : The leather industry supply chain - Fig. 2 : Identification of hides/skins through body markings - Fig. 3 : Large scale deforestation - Fig. 4 : Regenerative farming and livestock rotation increase biodiversity and productivity En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1S8wZeSR2dEqum5dkviBk91pcHna0n-Ae/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36190 [article]

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Driving up environmental and social industry standards / Martin Ricker in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 49 (09-10/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 49 (09-10/2021) . - p. 30-35 Titre : Driving up environmental and social industry standards Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Martin Ricker, Intervieweur ; Christina Trautmann, Personne interviewée Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 30-35 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Animaux -- Protection Chaine logistique Cuirs et peaux -- Industrie -- Aspect de l'environnement Déontologie professionnelle Produits chimiques -- Sécurité Responsabilité environnementale Traçabilité Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : With P7 of the LWG's protocol becoming mandatory from August 22. ILM Content Director, Martin Ricker asked Christina Trautmann, Program Manager for Leather Working Group, to tell us about the latest updates around traceability, animal welfare, chemical management and the new social compliance elements of the protocol. Note de contenu : - Can you provide an update on the latest LWG numbers in terms of tanners audited, traders and the number of stakeholders that are members ? - The tannery audits were suspended during the Covid-19 pandemic. What is the latest situation globally regarding live audits ? - The next audit protocol (7.1) is due to be mandatory this August. What are the major changes or updates over the previous protocol ? - The LWG recently expanded its team. Who has joined and what will be their roles going forward ? - Traceability and transparency in the leather supply chain is increasingly a hot topic. What is the LWG doing specifically in this area ? - Following the previous question, what is the LWG doing to highlight and introduce best practice around animal welfare ? - What new information can you provide ILM readers about restricted substances and the work of the (chemical) Supplier Sub-Group ? - The LWG has a Trader Protocol. How robust is this when monitoring hides and skins from mixed origins or tracing splits through the supply chain ? - Issues around sait (saline) content is tannery wastes has often been flagged as a problem area. Are you rewarding tanners for not using sait (sodium chloride) as a preservative in their processes or penalising those that do ? - Opponents of the leather industry often try to link leather from cattle farming with deforestation. How can a brand or retailer be sure that their leather is not from an area that has been illegally deforested? Is it fair that leather should be linked to deforestation in your view ? - Are there any plans to expand the LWG's remit further into corporate social governance ? - Is there anything else that you would Iike to mention ? En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SxveWM1Q-5wVzBAa7cx5R7DhZvD-6c5l/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36191 [article]

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What do we mean by 'Green washing' ? / Karl Flowers in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 49 (09-10/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 49 (09-10/2021) . - p. 36-38 Titre : What do we mean by 'Green washing' ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Karl Flowers, Auteur ; Abigail Clare, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 36-38 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomatériaux -- Aspects de l'environnement Cuir synthétique Désinformation Développement durable Industrie -- Aspect de l'environnement Pollution Produits vegan Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : A consumer environmental awareness increases, the demand for sustainable products is on the rise and is influencing the way many brands and retailers do business. Inaccurate communication of "green" daims to consumers is a widespread problem and is increasing as many businesses exploit fictional environmental daims to help increase their sales. "Greenwashing" is defined as the distribution of disinformation by organisations to promote products or to deliberately confuse the market. Greenwashing involves a discrepancy between an organisation's "green" daims and the true environmental performance of a product. By conveying a false perception, companies mislead customers into thinking they are making a sustainable choice. Note de contenu : - So-called vegan "leather" - Bio-based materials - The Higg Material Sustainability Index (MSI) - Fig. 1 : U.S. synthetic leather market trends - Fig. 2 : Polymeric additives in plant-based leather alternative materials - Fig. 3 : Environmental impacts of the cultivation of natural fibres - Fig. 4 : Plastic pollution En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CpVxEZTHR1yOUFtjn0aFwNSHCKWbg5Sf/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36192 [article]

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100% fully traceable leather / Martin Ricker in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 49 (09-10/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 49 (09-10/2021) . - p. 42-44 Titre : 100% fully traceable leather Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Martin Ricker, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 42-44 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Industrie -- Aspect de l'environnement Marquage (technologie) Traçabilité Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : The leather division of Dutch veal anc oor,< processors, Vitelco Leather, has launchec a 100% fully traceaole calfskin leather from birth to finished product oranded as ReVeal. Martin Ricker caught uo with Twan de Bie, Managing Director of Vitelco Leather, to explain how their traceability system vvorks. Note de contenu : - The Pali Group - Vitelco Leather tannery - How does the traceability system work ? - Quality improvements - Fig. 1 : Laser ID marking on crust leather - Fig. 2 : ID mark on wet-blue En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1U-XWjRMQMctlmzjEdC6uMcl8g4vpcCGs/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36193 [article]

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Animal welfare and the five freedoms / Karl Flowers in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 49 (09-10/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 49 (09-10/2021) . - p. 46-48 Titre : Animal welfare and the five freedoms Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Karl Flowers, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 46-48 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Animaux -- Protection Cuirs et peaux -- Industrie -- Aspect de l'environnement Déontologie professionnelle Industrie -- Aspect de l'environnement Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Humans have always had a compassionate nature for animais. Since the dawn of time humans have interacted with animais as their food and as their companions. The domestication of wild animais to help manage their care in extensive/intensive food farm scenarios has taken hundreds of years to perfect. The welfare treatment of those animais has its ups and its downs. Cruel humans will be cruel to everything, and farmers are no exception. Kind humans have been compassionate and caring for animais since the beginning and will always continue to do so. Policy that moderates the cruelty and promotes the good practice is relatively recent. Francis Brambell authored the Brambell report which introduced the concept of the Five Freedoms after Ruth Harrison wrote the Animal Machines' (Harrison, R., 1964 ; Brambell, 1965). In 1994, Webster (1994) was a ground breaker in the promotion of diagnosing different levels of care and furthered the concept of the 'Five Freedoms of Animal Welfare'. To be clear, this is not a statement saying this is the first time that mechanisms were put in place to treat animais with the right welfare - people have cared and treated animais correctly since the dawn of time. The Five Freedoms concept was the first time that policy, or discussion of policy, was taking place to improve the welfare of bad practitioners. The purpose of animal welfare is to correct the behaviour of the cruel. Note de contenu : - 'FIVE FREEDOMS' TO 'A LIFE WORTH LIVING' : Freedom from hunger and thirst - Freedom from discomfort - Freedom from pain, injury, or disease - Freedom to express normal behaviour - Freedom from fear and distress - HIGHER QUALITY OF LIFE - Table 1 : Five domains model (adapted from Melbor, 2016) - Table 2 : Quality of life scale (taken from Mellor (2016) adapted from Green and Mellor (2011) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UbZlLf_U2TJrWWvoDxLPlJEfhVuzwTJR/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36194 [article]

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The world's lowest carbon automotive leather / Martin Ricker in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 49 (09-10/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 49 (09-10/2021) . - p. 50-52 Titre : The world's lowest carbon automotive leather Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Martin Ricker, Intervieweur ; Warren Bowden, Personne interviewée Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 50-52 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Bilan des émissions de gaz à effets de serre Chimie écologique Cuir dans les automobiles Cuirs et peaux -- Industrie -- Aspect de l'environnement Durée de vie (Ingénierie) Gaz à effet de serre -- Réduction Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : In early July, Bridge of Weir, part of the Scottish Leather Group (SLG), released lifecycle analysis data for their lowest ever carbon footprint automotive leather. Martin Ricker, ILM Content Director, spoke with Dr Warren Bowden, Innovation and Sustainability Director at SLG, to find out more. Note de contenu : - Bio-based chemicals - End of life and the Higg Index En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ouyHATY66D8YH9R9H6MnLlDTavoztSko/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36195 [article]

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Air emissions / Karl Flowers in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 49 (09-10/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 49 (09-10/2021) . - p. 54-58 Titre : Air emissions Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Karl Flowers, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 54-58 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Atmosphère -- Pollution Composés organiques volatils Cuirs et peaux -- Industrie -- Aspect de l'environnement Gaz à effet de serre Polluants atmosphériques solvants Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : While manufacturing leather, it is inevitable that the facility will produce air emissions that will enter the environment. Responsible facilities will be concerned about that environmental impact and will mitigate, prevent, or substitute chemicals (or alter) production to lower their impacts. The air emissions fall into the following groupings : 1. Boiler incinerator emissions (oxides of nitrogen, NON ; oxides of sulphur, SOI ; 2.5 pm particulate matter, PM2 5 ; 10 pm particulate matter, PMI°, dioxins, and furans). 2. Beamhouse emissions (hydrogen sulphide, H2S ; ammonia, NH3 ; chlorine dioxide, C102, and SOI). 3. Dry-cleaning emissions (dichloromethane, tetrachloromethane/ perchloroethylene, and trichloroethane/ trichloroethylene). 4. Surface coating emissions (volatile organic compounds, (VOCs), listed later, and monomeric polymers). 5. Waste emissions (carbon monoxide, CO ; carbon dioxide, CO2 ; methane, CH4 ; ozone, 03; NON, water vapour, H2O ; nitrogen, N2, H25, and SOI). Many of the emissions given above will be classified as greenhouse gases which means that as the enter the earth's atmosphere, they increase the global warming ability of the air (through their alteration of the radiative effects of these substances in the atmosphere). The most notable direct gases emitted by tanneries can be listed as greenhouse gases are : CO2, CH4, 03, nitrous oxide, N20, and H2O. Note de contenu : - Tanneries and surface coating emissions - Table 1 : Pollutants listed in industry benchmarks and AQGs - Table 2 : Solvents and volatile organic compounds (VOC) listed in industry benchmarks and AQGs En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-AW5_xl2BQZ_KcuTK-_zMRviqb1p64sw/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36196 [article]

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