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Sustainability in sourcing and production of botanical extracts / G. Alejandra Amacho-Bragado in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 11 (11/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 11 (11/2019) . - p. 2-6 Titre : Sustainability in sourcing and production of botanical extracts Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : G. Alejandra Amacho-Bragado, Auteur ; Delphine Gely, Auteur ; Christine Bertram, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 2-6 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agriculture durable Approvisionnement dans l'entreprise Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Gestion de l'approvisionnement Ingrédients cosmétiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Recent changes in the economic and environmental landscapes have reshaped the ways consumers choose products. An increasing number of people want to make a positive impact with their purchases, leading to an increased demand for sustainable products. The entire supply chain needs evaluation in order to make a real impact on the sustainability profile of a product, from the ingredients to what happens to the product after usage. Within the ingredients used in personal care, botanical extracts are a category that is often overlooked due to the use of renewable resources. However, sourcing directly from nature needs to be carefully managed to prevent any adverse environmental or social impacts. Two examples of sustainably sourced botanicals from Crodarom are discussed in detail. Note de contenu : - SOURCING BOTANICALS : RESPECTING BIODIVERSITY AND FARMERS LIVELIHOODS : Raw materials assessment - Solvents- Process - Final products - SOURCING OF CAULERPA LENTILIFERA : SUSTAINABLY MANAGED PONDS - SOURCING OF MUSA SAPIENTUM FLOWERS : SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yzhQEAb1igjNCt13Y3Ie_7rqrbTQl78-/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33575 [article]

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Future of synthetic polymers in cosmetics / Laurence Pottié in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 11 (11/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 11 (11/2019) . - p. 8-12 Titre : Future of synthetic polymers in cosmetics : How polyurethane polymers can solve the efficacy and environmental impact silemma Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Laurence Pottié, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 8-12 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Aspect de l'environnement Industrie cosmétique -- Aspect de l'environnement Innovations Matériaux filmogènes Microplastiques Polymères -- Biodégradation Polymères -- Emploi en cosmétologie Polyuréthanes Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Ingredients of cosmetic products end their life to a large extent in wastewater streams or in some cases in surface water. As a result their potential environmental impact and persistency recently raised attention. In particular, the European chemical agency (ECHA) published early 2019 a proposal to restrict the use of intentionally added microplastics in cosmetics and other products. The proposal is still in the consultation phase at the moment this article is written and should enter into force in 2020. Although the restriction only applies to solid particles, the discussions have nowadays extended to all types of synthetic polymers, often wrongly categorized as microplastics or as persistent in the environment. However, liquid film forming polymers do not fulfill the microplastic definition, and some liquid polymers such as polyurethanes can be biodegradable. These examples show the necessity to carefully distinguish between synthetic polymer types while formulating. In this paper an overview of the regulatory and environmental profile of various cosmetic polymers is given, with focus on film forming polymers. Note de contenu : - The ECHA definition of microplastics - End of life of microplastics and liquid polymers - Biodegradability of polymers - Innovation perspectives - Fig. 1 : The microplastics restriction proposal is one of the European initiatives to promote innovation towards non persistent ingredients - Fig. 2 : Film forming polymers, independently of their chemistry of biodegradability potential, are outside the scope of the microplastics restriction proposal - Fig. 3 : Microplastics, liquid and soluble polymers used in cosmetics usually end their life in the domestic waste water - Fig. 4 : The segmented structure of a polyurethane polymer enables introducing biobased building blocks and optimizing its biodegradability while tuning the properties for various applications - Fig. 5 : High humidity Curl Retention (HHCR) curves of representative film formers typically used in hair styling products. Biodegradation values were determined using the OECD 301 standard En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1s7a3OP45gGuJHSQrEVbu6rRUkWvTPUWp/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33576 [article]

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Natural alternative to retinoids for a sweet aging process / Rosalia Mantilla in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 11 (11/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 11 (11/2019) . - p. 14-16 Titre : Natural alternative to retinoids for a sweet aging process Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Rosalia Mantilla, Auteur ; Olga Laporta, Auteur ; Elena Cañadas, Auteur ; Sylesh Venkataraman, Auteur ; Raquel Delgado, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 14-16 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Extraction (chimie) Ingrédients cosmétiques -- Suppression ou remplacement Peau -- Soins et hygiène Rétinoïdes Stevia Stress oxydatif Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The growing concern over environmental problems along with economic constraints, require the development of environmentally and economically sustainable extraction techniques to overcome many of the disadvantages of conventional extractions. PHENOBIO™ subcritical water extraction technology meets the challenges of the 21st century, to protect both the environment and consumers through a sustainable and innovative process. The eco-friendly extraction technology was applied to locally-sourced organic stevia to obtain STEVISSE™ advanced botanical ingredient, which presents a retinoid-like activity to achieve a younger looking complexion in a sustainable way and without retinoids side effect on the skin. Note de contenu : - Botanical extracts in a very eco-friendly way - Natural gentler alternative to retinoids - Smoothing the natural passing of time - Defense against oxidative stress - Minimizing skin aging without irritation - Fading wrinkles away naturally - Fig. 1 : Phytochemical recovery using PHENOBIO™ subcritical water technology extraction - Fig. 2 : Percentage of fold change of upregulated antioxidant defense genes - Fig. 3 : Percentage of fold change of downregulated pro-inflammatory and matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) genes - Fig. 4 : Photographs of the crow’s feet area before and after 28 of treatment En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Iqp-9zysYb5P1Rt4EEN7EPpTLCnQ5jRt/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33577 [article]

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Well protected against multi-light and pollution / Solène Mine in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 11 (11/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 11 (11/2019) . - p. 18-23 Titre : Well protected against multi-light and pollution : New Ciste’M® and Rambuvital™ bioactives shield skin and hair from harsh environment Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Solène Mine, Auteur ; Florence Tombini, Auteur ; Cécile Kalem, Auteur ; Valérie André-Frei, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 18-23 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-pollution Atmosphère -- Pollution Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Formulation (Génie chimique) Lumière bleue Peau -- Soins et hygiène Photoprotection Rayonnement ultraviolet Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : As our skin and hair shield us from the sometimes harsh environment, they take the brunt of hazards such as urban pollutants, UV radiation and blue light. Two new 100% natural-origin plant extracts – Ciste'M® from the rockrose Cistus monspeliensis and Rambuvital™ from the rambutan tree – are among BASF’s active ingredients that strengthen skin and hair and help keep us looking youthful. Note de contenu : - Urban pollutants and multi-lights (UV and blue light) - Ciste’M® : Phoenix power from the rockrose - Rambuvital™ - Conclusion - Formulation - Fig. 1 : Protective effect of Ciste’M® on MMP1 induced by blue light in human skin biopsies. Quantification of immunostaining by image analysis - Fig. 2 : Photo-protective effect of Ciste’M® in human keratinocytes against DNA damage induced by UVB. Quantification of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPD) by ELISA - Fig. 3 : Smoothing and wrinkle-filling effect of O/W gel with Ciste’M® (Crow’s feet wrinkles, grade 1-3) - Fig. 4 : Effect of Rambuvital™ on the production of proteins constituting the stratum corneum on human keratinocytes, analyzed by western blot - Fig. 5 : Protective effect of Rambuvital™ against sebum oxidation by city pollution (exhaust gas combined with UVA irradiation) - Fig. 6 : Volunteers’ perception of hair benefits: Percentage of volunteers who agreed with the statement after 14 days of treatment and after 28 days of treatment En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/11k22-Q98r8YIyrK0XskRWj5zTVMe42qN/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33578 [article]

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Efficiency of laundering processes against clostridioides difficile / Rita Marques in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 11 (11/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 11 (11/2019) . - p. 28-34 Titre : Efficiency of laundering processes against clostridioides difficile Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Rita Marques, Auteur ; Caroline Amberg, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 28-34 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents de blanchiment Antibactériens Clostridium difficile Détergents Hypochlorite de sodium Infections nosocomiales Peracétique, Acide L'acide peracétique ou acide peroxyacétique (formule chimique: C2H4O3) (ou PAA) est un acide et agent oxydant très puissant utilisé dans l'Industrie pharmaceutique et le domaine médical comme oxydant, biocide désinfectant ou "stérilisant à froid" de certains dispositifs médicaux5. Ses propriétés oxydantes sont connues depuis 1902. Cette molécule est très soluble dans l'eau, l'alcool et l'éther. Fabrication : Il est le plus souvent produit en faisant agir de l'anhydre mixte boroacétique sur du peroxyde d'hydrogène (eau oxygénée). Dégradation : En condition normale, ce produit se dégrade en sous-produits non toxiques (acide acétique, oxygène et eau). Efficacité comme biocide : Utilisé seul ou avec du chlore ou des formaldehydes, sous forme liquide8 ou gazeuse (vapeur d'acide peracétique), il tue la plupart des micro-organismes libres en libérant de l'oxygène avec production d'hypochlorite ou de radicaux hydroxyles. Il est le plus efficace des désinfectants du marché sur les bactéries Gram-positives et Gram-négatives (moins de 5 minutes à faibles concentrations sur des bactéries libres), sur Mycobacterium tuberculosis et sur les spores. Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Clostridioides difficile associated infections (CDI) develop frequently in hospitalized, elderly patients after an antibiotic treatment. The infection is highly contagious and can be transmitted to other patients when cleaning and disinfection measures are insufficient. Textiles like bed linens or health care personnel uniforms can be involved in the spread of CDI. Spore-forming bacteria are difficult to inactivate and laundering processes efficient against pathogens like Escherichia coli or Staphylococcus aureus, may be insufficient for C. difficile spores. In the present study, the sporicidal effect of laundering processes was investigated systematically. Simulated washing tests were performed with biomonitors containing Bacillus subtilis spores. B. subtilis is a suitable model strain for C. difficile with comparable tolerance against disinfectants, heat and extreme pH values. The efficiency of different Peracetic acid (PAA) and sodium hypochlorite concentrations against B. subtilis spores was tested at different temperatures and contact times. Furthermore, a bleach-containing household detergent was included in the investigation. PAA concentrations, typically applied in I&I laundry cycles, were able to reduce B. subtilis spores sufficiently. Less effective were the tested NaClO-concentrations. The household laundry detergent failed to remove a significant number of bacterial spores. Note de contenu : - Table 1 : Test conditions of the simulated washing tests (suspension tests with biomonitors) - Table 2 : Reduction rates in suspension tests with biomonitors containing B. subtilis spores: Simulated washing tests were performed at different temperatures, concentrations of PAA, NaClO, IEC-A*, and contact times. 0.3g/L BSA was added as organic soil load. Blue = complete reduction En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XcFuPH3Mk-HCXWNepMPtrrVYnKpeJIXB/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33579 [article]

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IKW-Guidance on sustainability criteria for detergents, cleaning and maintenance products in private households / German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association (IKW) (Mainzer Landstrasse 55, Frankfurt am Main, Germany) in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 11 (11/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 11 (11/2019) . - p. 36-47 Titre : IKW-Guidance on sustainability criteria for detergents, cleaning and maintenance products in private households Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association (IKW) (Mainzer Landstrasse 55, Frankfurt am Main, Germany), Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 36-47 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biodégradation Détergents Durée de vie (Ingénierie) Etiquetage écologique Produits nettoyants Règlements (droit administratif) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The members of The German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association (IKW) have long been committed to sustainability under the umbrella of the association. This commitment has already led to a series of declared initiatives, such as the dialogue platform FORUM WASCHEN, the IKW report on sustainability in the detergents, maintenance and cleaning products industry as well as voluntary initiatives. The constant further development of initiatives and products in accordance with the concept of sustainability secures the sustainability of the detergents, maintenance and cleaning products industry in a constantly changing world. Sustainability means the balanced linking of economic and social aspects with ecological aspects to meet today’s needs while at the same time preserving all possibilities for future generations. Nonetheless, manufacturers of detergents, maintenance and cleaning products (home care products) frequently find themselves drawn into goal conflicts. For example, efforts to compact products more and more lead to the handling of such concentrated products posing a higher health risk in comparison with less concentrated products. The social benefit of the home care products with regard to hygiene and value-preserving aspects is undisputed. The products make a considerable contribution to present-day living and health standards, for example by prolonging the lifetimes of textiles, dishes, floors and other household items. In principle, targeted communication with consumers is necessary so that they can also use the products sustainably. This guidance was prepared in the IKW by a working group of experts from manufacturers of home care products. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : Task - Legal regulations and voluntary initiatives - SUSTAINABILITY CRITERIA : Product performance - Ingredients - Product safety - Transparency and information policy - Packaging information - Dosage - Packaging information - Manufacture and production - Economy - Social aspects - FINAL STATEMENT AND SUMMARY - Fig. 1 : Schematic illustration of the steps of the biodegradability of a starting material after four weeks (according to OECD test methods - Fig. 2 : Recommended dosage in grams of solid or powder laundry detergents from 1975 to 2019. - Appendix A : Important pieces of legislation for manufacturers of detergent, maintenance and cleaning products - Appendix B : Voluntary commitments and initiatives of the detergent, maintenance and cleaning products industry - Appendix C : Summary of ecolabels and sustainability assurance seals for laundry, care and cleaning products En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yOLSwKiJxjn2nGlx6e563dnVM463fY5p/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33580 [article]

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New developments, proven concepts and basic knowledge in professional ceaning and care / Tobias Kimmel in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 11 (11/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 11 (11/2019) . - p. 48-51 Titre : New developments, proven concepts and basic knowledge in professional ceaning and care : Conference of specialist group SEPAWA Professional Cleaning and Care specialist group (PCC) March 28-29, 2019, Konstanz, Germany Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Tobias Kimmel, Auteur ; Lothar Möhle, Auteur ; Andreas Leismüller, Auteur ; Tobias Potstada, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 48-51 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antimicrobiens Détergents Ethoxylate d'alcool Etiquetage écologique Nettoyage industriel Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : On 28th-29th March 2019, players from the cleaning and hygiene sectors met at the Inselhotel in Konstanz for the annual symposium of the SEPAWA specialist group "Professional Cleaning and Care". The event, entitled "Surfaces in focus : cleaning and disinfection soon a thing of the past?", was organised with the support of the Hochschule Niederrhein, University of Applied Sciences and chaired by Prof. Dr-Ing. T. Kimmel. Of the total of seven lectures, several addressed the subject of surfaces featured in the meetings theme. In addition, the programme presented current trends, issues and challenges of the industry. Note de contenu : - Fig. 1 : Comparison of alcohol ethoxylates (Source: Dr J. Tropsch, BASF SE) - Fig. 2 : Simple measurement of NIR spectra using smartphone accessories (Source: S. Plaza, Hochschule Niederrhein) - Fig. 3 Changeable surface - from antimicrobial to low-polluting. Reversible change from cationic (left) to zwitterionic state (right) via hydrolysis of ammonio lactione. (Source : Prof. Dr A. Laschewsky, Frauenhofer IAP, University of Potsdam) - Table 1 : Product categories in the field of cleaning that are eligible for the EU Ecolabel or Austrian environmental label En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hRQbLaP0XU73sIPNYd4HvYgglHIgdxG9/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33581 [article]

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Ultimate herbal multi-light protection cream - UV-DE-17-099-1-2 in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 11 (11/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 11 (11/2019) . - p. 52 Titre : Ultimate herbal multi-light protection cream - UV-DE-17-099-1-2 Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 52 Note générale : Fiche formulation Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Photoprotection Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Combine the herbal benefits of the Rockrose to the broad-spectrum UV- filters to offer a smart and daily protective solution against multi-light exposure. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1I9OfygwL0JNzaaykRPSIdIMV7AKM1En6/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33582 [article]

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Anti-pollution hair refresh - Chom Chom Shampoo - HB-FR-18-BC-50856-02 in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 11 (11/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 11 (11/2019) . - p. 53 Titre : Anti-pollution hair refresh - Chom Chom Shampoo - HB-FR-18-BC-50856-02 Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 53 Note générale : Fiche formulation Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-pollution Cheveux -- Effets de la pollution atmosphérique Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Chom Chom Shampoo contains Rambuvital®, a seed extract from the Rambutan fruit (Chom Chom in Vietnamese) offering an excellent anti-pollution efficacy for the hair and scalp whilst refreshing the hair strands thus playing the role of a “hair deo” . Chom Chom Shampoo is based on a mild surfactant combination, a conditioning agent for better hair combability, a lipid enhancer strengthening the scalp. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pEchCFIcy3tPLBt1NNVde9Mq8BeEsJxg/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33583 [article]

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